Drew Ruana has set a new world standard by doing three 8C+ and nine 8C's during the last year. As many top climbers, he always brings a fan and a hang board to the crag but how much and the way he uses them is unusual. We are talking a Milwaukee 18v for $250 lasting like ten hours in between charges and a hangboard by his feet. (c) Alton Richardsson

"I cool off holds and hands. Probably 2-3 minutes before every try cooling crux holds. It feels a few degrees colder than the outside air. Below 16 degrees it cools them off so they feel better, especially on slopers. Better on granite, not just slopers but crux holds. "

Interestingly, he says he thinks he had not sent a couple of the boulders if he had not used his fan. It should be mentioned that it was probably Martin Keller who brought in the fans to the climbing scene like five years ago. They have now spread so much so sometimes you will see five guys assisting hardcore boulders. We will get some follow up comments by Keller.

When it comes to warming up, Drew normally just sits down and pulls on his hang board adjusting and counter load with his feet. "I just pull on the hangboard until my fingers feel warm during 10 -15 minutes, whatever my project is."

Alizee Dufraisse, who in September did three 8c+ variations in the Ali Baba cave in Rodellar, has added an 8A+ sit start to one of them repeating Dani Andrada's P con fin mas hulk extension 9a. (c) Josep Malo

How have you improved during the sessions and how much did you need to rest in between tries?
I made only one try a day in order to recover enough. I think I improved both in strength and endurance. Doing the boulder problem was kind of more “easy” even if it was always at my limit (super strength/resistant oriented, 22 moved on crimps, long moves). Thanks to the battle I put in on each try, I was still able to do a hard route after the boulder.

The French, who won the Arco Bouldering Rock Master in 2009 when she also got a podium in a Lead WC, has previously done two 9a's. Including also four 8B's, she must be considered one of the best ever female sport climbers. In 2008, she was the French Championship in Pole vault at 4.35!

Simon Lorenzi, who has done two 9a's, including Action Directe in 2017 at age 20, has done his fourth 8C, The Big Island in Fontainebleau. As it just took him two sessions he says it is maybe just 8B+. As a matter of a fact, all his previous 8C's he thought they were 8B+ as they also went down in just one or two sessions! The 168 cm tall says he thinks his progress mainly come from climbing more outdoors and working a lot on his flexibility and mobility.

Other reasons why we have not heard more about him is that he lives in Belgium and actually quite seldom climbs outdoors as he has focused on comps. In 2016, he won the Youth Worlds and the next year he was once #10 in the WC. Later he started to struggle. For 17 straight Boulder and Lead WCs, he was mainly #30 - 50, and it was not until the very last WC last year he was back on track as #14.

"Too much pressure but also not a really smart way of training because only focus on the physical aspect but it's something that we changed now. I try to climb more and more on real routes and boulders to work on the tactical and technical aspect." Next up is the European Championship in Moscow hoping to make it to Tokyo.

"I want to find a hard project to work on this year possibly the Sit of the Big Island. Next year I'd like to go one month to Margalef to work on First round first minute and one month in Switzerland to work on Off the wagon sit-start :)" (c) Oriane Tollebeek More pics and comments on his Insta.

Three weeks ago, Alex Megos posted on Insta that somebody had chopped the bolts of his recent FA, The Last Dance, which Julian Söhnlein had bolted. Megos said that, "The route was legally bolted and totally legitimate." and blamed the old generation for it.

Later it was found out that the chopping had been done by Michael Ordnung who had put up the neighbouring route Burn for you 8c in 1993, claiming that the new route was too close. Markus Bock, known for having said that if somebody puts up neighbouring routes to close he will act, was at the scene when the chopping occurred. Bock then made a comment on Instagram, "You will war!" Then it escalated so badly so you will have to find out in the below video.

Lorenzo Bogliacino, who has done four 8c+' since August, has done his second 9a, TCT in Gravere. Interesting is that he prior to this had never done an 8c+.

"I spent the first weeks after the lockdown trying to gain some strength and endurance back climbing in my home crags and eating healthier to get back to a decent weight. In July and August, I was able to travel quite a lot with my girlfriend and from there to September I had one of my best seasons ever doing some 8c+'s and especially "Noia" that challenged me a lot in the past. Afterwards, since I do not have a lot of 9a's relatively close to home, the choice was TCT. I struggled a bit with the first 8c part but after a couple of days, I realized I was able to do it every time and started to give serious attempts to the full line. I fell on the last move Saturday and did it Sunday in the morning! For me for sure 9a!"

Edu Marin, one of the very best multi-pitch climbers in the world, has made the FA of the six pitches Arco Iris in Montserrat. The last four pitches are all 8a+ to 8c+. His manager Ivan Torres from Woguclimbing has helped out with further info.

The route had only old gear from the first aid ascension. Edu added between three and five bolts in each pitch, trying to respect the original route. He didn't use the old gear in his ascent just the new bolts. He started to try the route in 2019 but he didn't free the hard pitches until the beginning of this month. October 9th, after three final weeks, projecting it he made it belayed by his father.

"It's been a mental struggle. Knowing that you have to face an 8c+ pitch with only four bolts in 25 meters and potential falls up to 15 meters is not easy.

Last year the Spaniard did put up the first 9a+ multi-pitch in the world and although he has never been in Yosemite, he must be considered as one of the Top-3 MP/Big wall climbers in the world. In total, the 31-year-old has done more than 20 9a's and including having won the Lead World Cup in Chamonix in 2006, he must be considered as one of the best multi-discipline climbers in the world. "

Eva Hammelmüller and Jessica Pilz have been on a rock climbing trip in Arco with the Austria national team. Both did Terra Piatta 8c in Mont Colt where Eva also did Zero Tolleranza in Mont Colt. Jessy's second 8c was 5 Uve in Narango.

This were Eva'scomments yesterday, "The training camp with the national team is so much fun, and it is going extraordinarily well! We are already leaving tomorrow, so I am looking forward to climbing as much as possible on our last two climbing days!"

During the last two days, both Eva (in the picture) and Jessy did three routes 8b and 8b+ second go. Eva is #3 in the 8a ranking game and Jessy has qualified to Tokyo.

Advertorial: Alex Megos is without a doubt one of those climbers who never tire of looking for new challenges and who take every opportunity to put their skills to the test. Recently he visited South Tyrol – popular for hiking and alpine climbing, amazing ski resorts and delicious food – but not yet that well-known among the climbing elite for its potential for hard climbs. However, this could change soon: "There seems to be A LOT of rock here, which I haven't heard of before. Looking forward to being back here as soon as possible!”

Alex Megos and his crew visited several areas in the Landro valley, where rock after rock is lined up. Right next to family-friendly places you can find mighty overhangs. Located in the middle of the Dolomites, the combination of fantastic rock quality and stunning backdrops offers more than just attractive photo motives. A big advantage of this area is that you can climb here in autumn and spring, but also in the middle of summer. Thanks to the high altitude and often shady orientation, there are good conditions even in the warm season: “I'm sure I'll be back again next summer!”

Vertical-Life offers you 2 crag collections for free to discover a total of 20 areas in South Tyrol:
- Best of South Tyrol from 6b to 8a
- Climbing in South Tyrol with the whole family

Use the code CLIMBSUEDTIROL to unlock both collections in the Vertical-Life App. Find more inspiration for your holiday and information about South Tyrol at this link.