Drew's (secret) tricks: Fan and Hang board by his feet

EDITORIAL

Thursday, 22 October

Drew Ruana has set a new world standard by doing three 8C+ and nine 8C's during the last year. As many top climbers, he always brings a fan and a hang board to the crag but how much and the way he uses them is unusual. We are talking a Milwaukee 18v for $250 lasting like ten hours in between charges and a hangboard by his feet. (c) Alton Richardsson

"I cool off holds and hands. Probably 2-3 minutes before every try cooling crux holds. It feels a few degrees colder than the outside air. Below 16 degrees it cools them off so they feel better, especially on slopers. Better on granite, not just slopers but crux holds. "

Interestingly, he says he thinks he had not sent a couple of the boulders if he had not used his fan. It should be mentioned that it was probably Martin Keller who brought in the fans to the climbing scene like five years ago. They have now spread so much so sometimes you will see five guys assisting hardcore boulders. We will get some follow up comments by Keller.

When it comes to warming up, Drew normally just sits down and pulls on his hang board adjusting and counter load with his feet. "I just pull on the hangboard until my fingers feel warm during 10 -15 minutes, whatever my project is."


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