NEWS

Jusqu'au bout du monde 8c by Katherine Choong
Katherine Choong, who previously has done two 9a's, has done her 13th 8c, Jusqu'au bout du monde in Soyhiรจres. (c) Hugo Vincent

"I didn't really like climbing in the Jura before but because of the Covid19 I was forced to climb more local. With a bit of patience I started to really appreciate the style of the area. But I couldn't imagine climbing routes at my limit because of the bouldery / powerful style of the routes. Jusquโ€™au bout du monde is ~ 20 meters, starting with a hard section and a dyno for small climbers (the crux for me), and continue with a resistance end. It is a route bolted in 1989 by Philippe Steulet, a well-known Swiss climber from the region. It's "only" 8c but the crux took me a lot of time and cost me a lot of tries. It was finally last Wednesday that I managed to stick the dyno and fought against the pump all the way to the top ๐Ÿ˜Š"

Fanny Gibert reports on Insta, "โž–French team just cancelled our participation to European championship taking place in 20 days โŒ โž•But pro athlete can keep training during lockdown."

Two 8c's and an 8b OS by Solveig Korherr
Solveig Korherr has during ten days done eleven routes 8a+ and harder in Frankenjura including;
Klodike Cat 8c, "Wow! What a freaking good day! Definitely my style! Psyched to have sent it in my third try. First 8c in a day!"
Roof Warrior 8c, " Last day, best day! What a sick roof! It was so much fun finding all the beta and climbing through the horizontal and pumpy part of the route. Jon would have been proud of my kneebars :D"
Triebwerke 8b onsight,"I think more experience on rock over the last few years have made me much better at making decisions and reading the rock on the fly."

"My trip to the Frankenjura was rather spontaneous as I was only supposed to stay for two/ three days but in the end, I stayed for ten days and it couldnโ€™t have been better. At the beginning, I just wanted to climb a lot of routes without any specific goal and pressure. I guess that was the key in the end to have a very successful trip and a lot of fun!" (c) Julian Bรผckers

"It was actually better than expected!" Adam Ondra did good links and found a knee bar during his first day on Alex Megos' Perfecto Mundo 9b+, bolted by Chris Sharma.

Low Priora 8C/+ FA by Vadim Timonov
Vadim Timonov, who did four 8C's during a four weeks trip to Ticino last Christmas, has done the FA of Low Priora 8C/+ in Djan-tugan. "Powerful moves, hard work with underclings. 17 moves in total in 65 degrees overhang."

It starts right in the hole in the bottom of the pictures and tops out in Priora 7B, shown in the picture. The Russian also opened Focus failed 8C that tops around the corner to the left. Last year, Vadim got the bronze in the Euro Championship and next up for him is the Moscow Euro Championship.

So how is this new boulder spot and where is it located?
In 2017, it was a big mudflow and a large area with stones appeared. Really good world-class area. A lot of stones around but we haven't seen much yet. Need more time for exploring. We are thinking about boulder festival for next year. It is located 20 hours south of Moscow by car or 3 hours by plane.

28 October 2020

"I want to do 9c+"

Two weeks ago, Austria said that they will not send any athletes to the European Championship in Moscow 20 - 29 November. Last week, Germany, Switzerland, United Kingdom and Sweden informed that they will only send athletes that will compete in Combined. The Italians have not yet decided but Gabri Moroni, who recently was Boulder Champion, has told 8a that he will not go. In the starting list, there are five male from Czech Republic but Adam Ondra is not listed.

Three 8A's by Natalia Grossman (19)
Natalia Grossman has done three 8A's on her first weekend trip to Joe Valley; I shaved my head for this (pictured), Barely Legal and Death Cream. In total, the 19-year-old studying Psychology and Business in the University, has done 32 boulders 8A to 8B during the last six months. Last year, Natalia got the silver in both Boulder and Combined in the Youth World Championship.

Is it not time to step up the game to 8B+ with such grade pyramid?
I was only there for the weekend, Iโ€™m psyched that I was able to try lots of fun climbs and I canโ€™t wait to return! I am pretty busy with school so I donโ€™t really want a long term project right now.