NEWS

"I planned to stay one week in Font during the autumn holiday but with the lockdown I could stay one week more. It was two awesome weeks with really good conditions; sunny, windy and cold weather and my sport dispensation made these outdoor sessions legal. The objective was to finish some classics and to try some hard boulders. During the first week I completed the first part of my objective with some classics like Ubik, La Merveille or Gourmandise (the short one). The second week was a success with 2 8B+ (Mรฉcanique Elรฉmentaire and Gecko sit). I did the first one in one session and the second one in 5 tries, one year after the stand start.

The Understanding 8C by Clรฉment Lechaptois
Clรฉment Lechaptois has done his third 8C, The Understanding in Magic Wood. "All time bloc from Nalle! Cannot get much better than this." Full story on his Insta and Fanatic Climbing has a full length interview. (c) Marine Thevenet

Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, who previously has done eight routes 8c+ and 9a, has done Cedric Lachat's Andreas Blues in Citidibi. Cedric put it up as an 8b+ but the 15-year-old thinks it is 8c+. "8c++++ :)))A beast power endurance climb! Spent like two goes to figure out the beta and then circa 10 goes to stick the very last dyno move) Sent it at night with a headlamp, which actually turned out to be the perfect conditions for getting into the famous flow state. A really intuitive and pure climb, super recommended! 15 meters of hard and crimpy moves without rest."

"Even though it's getting harder and harder to visit famous crags in Europe because of the quarantine, Turkey is still open for everybody and can provide awesome climbing conditions, so now is the time to give it a try and discover the beauty and hard projects of these magnificent crags thoroughly developed by Tobias and Duygu Haug, as well as ร–ztรผrk Kayikci, Zorbey Aktuyun, Mรผmin Karabas and all the locals!" More comments and pics by Damien on his Insta.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo has done Era Vella in Margalef calling it 8c+/9a although it has become more difficult due to a broken hold. "Very good! What a route. One of the best routes I have ever climbed without a doubt. For me 8c+/9a with my tricks but it is difficult to grade as it is 100 moves without stopping! I will remember the fight today and the two falls on the wall ;)"

The 45 meter excellent route was originally put up by Chris Sharma in 2010, calling it a soft 9a and as a matter of a fact he did the FA during a warm-up attempt. Later it quickly became the most repeated 9a and it has now 40 ascents. As many made personal best down grading and many said it was soft for 9a, 8a started to report it as an 9a (8c+). I also argumented that it was subject of being down graded. In 2015, Jonathan Siegrist made the first real statement saying many 8c's are much harder. He also said that the hardest moves were just like a 7A+ boulder. Later most called it 8c+ and then it was also officially downgraded. Interestingly, since the downgrade, it has only been done once, prior to Jorge's ascent, during 2.5 years! One reason for this is a broken hold making it harder but even so Jorge, says it is not 9a.

Hulk Extension Total 8c+ by "Citro" (50)
Carlos "Citro" Logroรฑo reports on Insta that he has done Hulk Extension Total 8c+ in Rodellar. Interestingly, Citro has never done a 9a so he is peaking at age 50. More info to come. (c) Javi Pec

17 November 2020

The Way to Change #1

Super Pod 9a by Jonathan Siegrist
Jonathan Siegrist has done his 39th 9a, Super Pod at New Riger Gorge. "Totally desperate (!!) crimp boulder after the most lovely 8a ever. Low in the grade. 4 tries." On Insta he comments, "When the weather cooperates it sure does feel like this might just be the best crag in America..." (c) Tesla Mitchell

His comments on Still Life 8c, reveals that this route is also of the highest quality. "Damn. A complete masterpiece. The rumours are true!! Same day as Super Pod. So psyched on the New right now!"

Beautiful pain 8c+ by Lucija Tarkus (17)
Lucija Tarkus from Slovenia has done her first 8c+, Beautiful pain in Kotecnik.

"At first, I didnโ€™t intend to dedicate myself to climb this route. Instead, I wanted to send Butnskala 8b+. When I sent it on my first attempt day, I decided to just try to climb Beautiful pain. I couldn't send it the same day as I only tried the moves. Then, on the next day succeeded on my 5th attempt yesterday."

In 2018, she won two Euro Cups and last year she got the bronze in Bouldering in the Euro Championship. The picture by Fabian Poels is from Arco.