Era Vella 8c+/9a by Jorge Diaz-Rullo

EDITORIAL

Wednesday, 18 November

Jorge Diaz-Rullo has done Era Vella in Margalef calling it 8c+/9a although it has become more difficult due to a broken hold. "Very good! What a route. One of the best routes I have ever climbed without a doubt. For me 8c+/9a with my tricks but it is difficult to grade as it is 100 moves without stopping! I will remember the fight today and the two falls on the wall ;)"

The 45 meter excellent route was originally put up by Chris Sharma in 2010, calling it a soft 9a and as a matter of a fact he did the FA during a warm-up attempt. Later it quickly became the most repeated 9a and it has now 40 ascents. As many made personal best down grading and many said it was soft for 9a, 8a started to report it as an 9a (8c+). I also argumented that it was subject of being down graded. In 2015, Jonathan Siegrist made the first real statement saying many 8c's are much harder. He also said that the hardest moves were just like a 7A+ boulder. Later most called it 8c+ and then it was also officially downgraded. Interestingly, since the downgrade, it has only been done once, prior to Jorge's ascent, during 2.5 years! One reason for this is a broken hold making it harder but even so Jorge, says it is not 9a.

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