NEWS

In total Adam Ondra spent 44 days in the Margalef and Oliana out of with 15 days was spent working and trying Perfecto Mundo 9b+.

Loic Zehani has done his 9a #20, UFO faire XXL in Calanques. "It is a connection between "UFO" 8c (one of the first 8c in France, bolted by Fred Roulhing) and "XXL" 8c +. You have to do all the hard part of "UFO" and then the bouldery crux of "XXL" with a little rest in between. It took me 5 days. I fell 3 times on the last hard movement. It's a very physical route. I think it's a 9a especially since the bouldery section is harder following the breakage of a little part of a hold. You can watch a try on my Instagram where I fall in the last movement."

Blue Line 8c by Solveig Korherr
Solveig Korherr has done her seventh 8c in 2020, Blue Line in Geyik bayiri. (c) Jon Shen "Two days. First Female Ascent. Ceusienne Berlin style rock after 20 meters of easier tufa approach. Happy that I was able to cram two fingers into some of the tiny pockets. Quite atypical of Geyikbayiri."

So how many climbers are around? What about Covid-19 restrictions and how long will you stay?
Turkey has been great so far! Itโ€™s getting very busy now especially with the holidays starting, so there are quite a few climbers around. Itโ€™s hard to tell because there a lot of different campgrounds and Iโ€™m in a smaller one but probably around 100 climbers. Tourist can do everything, there are no restrictions for us. I will probably stay here till mid of January.

Aidan Roberts made his breakthrough at the world scene at the end of this summer. During six weeks, he made six FA's 8B+ to Superpower 8C+. Lattice Training got his breakthrough on film and Tom Randell gives us more insight.

"Aidan is extremely intelligent/academic but at the same time climbing super hard and also crazy humble about it all... I'm going to have to shout about it for him ๐Ÿ˜‚. He's studying at top UK university in a maths degree and so has to balance this with climbing performance. A kid with many things on his plate!

This film follows Aidan repeating multiple 8Bs to then establishing first ascents all the way up to 8C and 8C+ with Superpowers and Outliers. Whilst you all know these grades have been climbed before elsewhere, you may not know the context of Aidan and the Lakeland grading - he's not soft and neither are the grades! One of his FAs from Colorado established previously (Railway, 8C) has been tried by some of the world's best boulderers and yet has only had a single repeat by Matt Fultz..."

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Sterkenburg (17) and Cosser make it to the Olympics
Erin Sterkenburg, who was #33 and #48 in the Youth World Championship last year, and Christoffer Cosser have qualified to Tokyo 2021. In the African Championship, Erin was totally superior winning all six stages meanwhile it was a closer race for Christoffer.

Erin: "I started training at the end of 2019 for Africa Cup, having qualified earlier in the year, as the comp was scheduled for March 2020. Sadly, one week before the comp was supposed to happen, it was cancelled due to Covid-19. South Africa went into lockdown and this was a difficult time for everyone, for me specifically as an athlete without access to a climbing wall. Once lockdown ended and the comp was rescheduled for December it gave me something to work towards and I was super psyched to be able to train and climb again. During training motivation was sometimes low as at times we were unsure if Africa Cup would even happen.

During lockdown I was quite restricted with what training I could do because I donโ€™t have a home wall, so I tried to work on some weaknesses like power. In general I climb about five days a week and I have been doing a lot of comp simulation leading up to Africa Cup. Itโ€™s quite surreal at the moment, it hasnโ€™t really sunk in, but I am so thankful to everyone that has helped me get where I am right now. In the coming months, I will try my best to train as hard as I possibly can to be ready for Tokyo."

Mackenzie (18) and O'Halloran to Tokyo
Oceania Mackenzie, who was #6 in a Boulder WC last year, did win all six races and got her Olympic ticket in the Oceania Championship. The best time in Speed for the 18-year-old was 8.45 and besides that she onsighted seven out of the eight problems as well as topped both routes.

Among the male, it was Tom O'Halloran who made it to Tokyo. He won also the qualification but in the final, it was an extremely close race but in the end, he was #2 in bouldering having done three zones in eleven attempts. Video interview. If he had used just one more attempt, James Kassay would have been the lucky one. Complete results.

Tom: "The whole story is massive, but the short version. It was a tough tough journey, one that pushed me beyond what I thought I was capable of. I nearly pulled out of the whole event 4 weeks ago. Iโ€™m so grateful to my partner and daughter for getting me through it and being the best support I could ever wish for.

My motivation was very very low. 2020 was a massive year, my home was under threat from bushfires in the beginning of the year, COVID struck and I lost my job in March, I injured 2 pulleys and a knee between April and June. Being a rock climber, I missed the crag days too and having fun with friends and having balance. I was missing time with my family too. The nearest modern style climbing gym is 1 1/2hrs away so I was spending so much time away from home training by myself. I felt guilty taking all the space in my family too. My partner Amanda is a superstar for supporting me through it all.
(c) Set in Stone.

Cordia Maleficarum 9a FA by Alex Garriga
Alex Garriga, who has done two 9a+' in 2020, has done the FA of Cordia Maleficarum 9a in Cuenca. "You have to do the hard part if Corazรณn cofrade, about 8c. Then there are twelve moves independent traverse and for finish the final of Malleus Maleficarum, a project." After he did the 8c, he did the FA after some 20 tries.