20 December 2020

Mackenzie (18) and O'Halloran to Tokyo

Oceania Mackenzie, who was #6 in a Boulder WC last year, did win all six races and got her Olympic ticket in the Oceania Championship. The best time in Speed for the 18-year-old was 8.45 and besides that she onsighted seven out of the eight problems as well as topped both routes.

Among the male, it was Tom O'Halloran who made it to Tokyo. He won also the qualification but in the final, it was an extremely close race but in the end, he was #2 in bouldering having done three zones in eleven attempts. Video interview. If he had used just one more attempt, James Kassay would have been the lucky one. Complete results.

Tom: "The whole story is massive, but the short version. It was a tough tough journey, one that pushed me beyond what I thought I was capable of. I nearly pulled out of the whole event 4 weeks ago. Iโ€™m so grateful to my partner and daughter for getting me through it and being the best support I could ever wish for.

My motivation was very very low. 2020 was a massive year, my home was under threat from bushfires in the beginning of the year, COVID struck and I lost my job in March, I injured 2 pulleys and a knee between April and June. Being a rock climber, I missed the crag days too and having fun with friends and having balance. I was missing time with my family too. The nearest modern style climbing gym is 1 1/2hrs away so I was spending so much time away from home training by myself. I felt guilty taking all the space in my family too. My partner Amanda is a superstar for supporting me through it all.
(c) Set in Stone.
0 comments
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
โ€I stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโ€™s World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders. Outdoor bouldering isโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ