Max Bertone has, in just one hour, done Atomic Playboy in Fontainebleau. It was put up by Greg Sobczak in 1993 as an 8B traverse. Later it has been called 8A+ traverse or 8A boulder.

The 154 cm tall 13-year-old has also done two other 8A's: Les Beaux Quartiers video and Big Golden assis video. He did the first in just two sessions and the latter in less than ten tries. His father Stefano actually says "This is clearly better than Oriane at the same age." Oriane is Max's 15-year-old sister that has done 15 boulders 8B and harder, currently #4 in the 8a ranking game.

For the 16th year straight, we have asked: Which are the best climbing shoes? Based on some 2 000 unique poll responses, we can see that the results are almost the same as in 2020 with a total domination of La Sportiva and Scarpa, while Five Ten has lost a few percent again. The results of 2017 are shown in brackets for comparison, revealing a big drop also for Boreal. Part of that drop might be explained by 8a, on a relative basis, having fewer visitors from Spain.

43 % La Sportiva (43 % in 2017)
29 % Scarpa (18)
07 % Tenaya (4)
06 % Five Ten (15)
03 % Evolve, Ocun
02 % Mad Rock, Boreal (10)
05 % Other brands

Katie Lamb, who did six 8B's in 2020, has done her 13th 8A+, Hungry Hungry Hippos in Red Rocks. In the 8a ranking game, she is #4.

"I was inspired by the recent K2 winter summit by a Nepali team and found many lessons to learn from them in seeking my own desert summit. To name a couple — push through the finger frostbite pain barrier and find power in the sun, and pray to the mountain for safe passage. Even though it was warmer than negative 76 Fahrenheit, I had trouble getting my skin warm enough to grab sandstone grips. My friend Shuggie Bain gave me some inner warmth and then summit was trivial! First session I did the stand, next session I did the full sit."

Setting a grade goal creates motivation, and just thinking of clipping the anchor of a personal grade best should make you smile. On the other hand, to just have this as your 2021 goal could create anxiety. "The best climber is the one having most fun" is another way of setting a goal. One way of combining a grade goal and having more fun is to set a goal like "I want to do ten climbs 7B or harder. With a multiple grade goal you will top out more routes instead of failing over and over again, like you would with a 7c goal.

This will make your grade pyramid wider and more similar to the professional athletes'. This will also make you a better climber in the long run as you will be challenged by different types of climbs, and the risk of injury will thus be reduced. In the same way, you can set multiple onsight goals, which should also include falls. Setting some (safe) onsight goals are good for your psych, and the adrenaline rush will most certainly give you more fun, sitting in your car describing your feelings to your friends.

One alternative, combining redpoint and onsight goals, is to set a goal in 8a points. Remember that it is more fun to have slow continuous progress rather than setting a big personal redpoint best 2021. Another risk of having a goal of one certain grade or climb is that it just might be downgraded :).

Climbing is one of the fastest-growing sports and part of the reason is all the auto-belays indoors. Within ten years, commercial auto-belays are probably also found outdoors on rock but also on municipal playgrounds.

Adventure parks and zip-lines are mushrooming meaning that there is probably a good market for commercial auto-belays outdoors. In the longer run, clubs and private persons might also buy one that easily could be attached to an anchor, on a day to day basis.

Another possibility is that some ordinarie belay devices have gotten an electrified motor pulling in the rope. In theory, such a motor might be possible to attach to the Revo which is shown in the picture.

Elias Iagnemma is a new 8a member who has recorded four 8C's and four 9a's, including the FAs of Extrasystole 8C and the 9a/+'s Ten and Ultimo Tango a Zagarolo. In 2018 he won the Italian Boulder Cup and tried some World Cups. Insta with more pics.

"Until 2018 I trained only and exclusively for competitions. Then in the last two years, my vision has changed a little and so I decided to compensate with a lot of rock climbing. In the winter of 2019, I almost stopped training but I only climbed on rock because when I wasn't climbing outside I was busy building my "BLOCKLAND" climbing gym. Once this dream was realized, I resumed training at my best but no longer exclusively aimed at competitions but also on performance on rock where it has recently given me more satisfaction. I love competitions and rock alike and I can't do without both. I hope this 2021 is a good year to get back to both of them in the best possible way. For the moment I continue to prefer outdoor climbing since with the situation of the pandemic the competitions are at risk until the last day and therefore I would not like to waste all the training performed over the months for a competition that probably will not happen. With this, I hope that we can return to normal as soon as possible and return to compete in the best possible way and in maximum safety.

After winning the Italian cup I took part in some world cups but I was injured in a finger and ankle and I couldn't give my best. Now I have recovered and I hope to return to the competition scene in this new year."

Last summer, many local crags and bouldering areas saw a record number of climbers. This local crag boom will probably continue this summer, and should also affect gyms next winter when it is too cold to climb outdoors.

At the same time, some climbers will probably be hesitant to go indoors for a couple of years due to Covid-19. This creates possibilities for gyms to build outdoor bouldering walls next to their facilities. As a matter of a fact, some gyms, especially in the Netherlands, have had such facilities for more than a decade. There are also gyms that already have integrated indoor/outdoor bouldering and climbing walls. (c) Vertikale in Brixen

Furthermore, kids' climbing walls have been part of playgrounds all over the world for many years. In other words, what is written in this article's headline is nothing new but a great possibility for all gyms and municipalities to continue developing outdoor climbing.

In the longer run, there are possibilities to further develop beginners' and kids' bouldering on the blocks outdoors. The children climbing courses are often fully booked, and until new outdoor bouldering walls are ready, courses could take place outdoors this spring in order to activate the kids.

Brittany Goris has done the FFA of East Coast Fist Bump 8b+ trad in the Waterfall. "This route had been on my mind for years after belaying my friend Reed on the second (?) Ascent. After finding a dozen sequences that didn't work for the crux, I finally found the one that did. In a rare moment of perfect flow, I sent on my first lead attempt after a month or so of rope soloing. Feeling very grateful for the journey and all the people involved. A truly special climb." Full story on BrittanyGoris.com - The Impossible Dream

During the last year, she has previously done ten trad routes 8a and harder including the FFA of Stingray 8b, video. In other words, 180 cm tall she is one of the very best female trad climbers out there and actually not that many males could show a better annual trad ticklist. In the 8a trad ranking game she is #1 ahead of all males. Interestingly, she has focused on trad climbing just the last two years. The 28-year-old started climbing some 20 years ago as a competition climber and has gone through all stages of climbing, including sport, bad injuries, bouldering and burnout before blooming out as a world-class trad climber.

"I started focusing on trad because I wanted to grow as a climber. I felt really stagnant just chasing grades as a sport climber and wanted to find a deeper purpose than that. Trad climbing constantly pushes me outside my comfort zone and offers so many opportunities to challenge myself in new and unique ways. To really be a great trad climber you have to master so many things-- technique, strength, and mental fortitude, and there is endless room for growth in all those areas. The more I got into it the more I became interested in how connected trad climbing is to the history of climbing in general which greatly inspires me. I also started to really see the beauty in cracks in particular. I also have fallen in love with the trad community, it tends to attract really weird people for some reason, just like me."

How has your training changed since you began focusing on trad?
Well I moved into a van and started climbing outside full time at the same time I started mostly trad climbing, so my training became more about the things I can do while travelling. I mostly just climb and do workouts for antagonistic muscles to prevent injury. If I feel like something, in particular, is holding me back I focus on it for a while.

Joel Kinder has done the FA of Black Mirror 8c+ and The Activator 9a in Hurricave. Just the last year he has now done nine 8c - 9a FAs. (c) David Frietz

Black Mirror: "Bolted this thing right after I sent LOV (9a+) in 2018. I've seriously tried this thing 80 times and never completed. I sort of left it as a side project and never saw it through until this year. Savage, mean and pissed off type of route, but rad like that. A new puppy in our life makes time at the cliff more valuable and I think it's helping. HA! WE GO HARD!!!!!!!!! Maybe 8c? But I kinda doubt it... old man shit so let's see what the kids have to say. Crazy the Hurricave is still giving lines."

The Activator: "Bolted in 2010 and tried for 6 weeks back then. It was WAY over me. Last year I tapped back in, got close, got injured and no send. This year went to fuckin WORK on it and with the ups and downs finally, the moment arrived. What a feeling!!!! One of my babies is completed and I have so many more to nurture and tend to. Life is good again."

The picture is from Peregrination/Visitor Q, 8b+/c in the cave. Gallery and comments on his Insta.

Grampians in Australia is one of the best climbing and bouldering areas in the world. Vertical Life Mag reports that a new draft management plan has been released for the area, which "vastly decreases the opportunities for roped climbing – particularly hard, quality climbing – and it basically eliminates bouldering." VL writes that feedback on the draft plan can be sent to [email protected]. More info also at Save Grampians Climbing, which via Neil Monteith comments,

"The Grampians National Park is one of the worlds great rock-climbing and bouldering areas with thousands of classic sandstone routes spread across an extraordinary wilderness landscape. In a new draft management plan Parks Victoria (the land manager) is proposing to completely ban bouldering as an activity and only allow access to 22% of roped climbing areas. What is on the chopping block? Taipan Wall, Muline, Bundaleer and many others. This is the largest climbing ban on earth and decimates the climbing opportunities for locals and visitors alike. We need YOUR HELP by sending a submission to Parks Victoria stating your disagreement to the proposed plan and it’s massive loss to the rock climbing community. You have until the 24th of January 2021 – please act now! "Taipan wall in the picture.