23 January 2021

Set grade goals *10 or points

Setting a grade goal creates motivation, and just thinking of clipping the anchor of a personal grade best should make you smile. On the other hand, to just have this as your 2021 goal could create anxiety. "The best climber is the one having most fun" is another way of setting a goal. One way of combining a grade goal and having more fun is to set a goal like "I want to do ten climbs 7B or harder. With a multiple grade goal you will top out more routes instead of failing over and over again, like you would with a 7c goal.

This will make your grade pyramid wider and more similar to the professional athletes'. This will also make you a better climber in the long run as you will be challenged by different types of climbs, and the risk of injury will thus be reduced. In the same way, you can set multiple onsight goals, which should also include falls. Setting some (safe) onsight goals are good for your psych, and the adrenaline rush will most certainly give you more fun, sitting in your car describing your feelings to your friends.

One alternative, combining redpoint and onsight goals, is to set a goal in 8a points. Remember that it is more fun to have slow continuous progress rather than setting a big personal redpoint best 2021. Another risk of having a goal of one certain grade or climb is that it just might be downgraded :).
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