NEWS

Critiscism towards Redbulls 360 m multi-pitch
Fanatic Climbing has published some critical comments regarding Red Bull's 360 meters artificial multi-pitch, featuring Janja Garnbret, Domen Skofic, and the routesetters. Sure, Red Bull commercials often go hand in hand with negative environmental publicity, but personally, I think this was one of their better.

Take any Formula 1 race and you will have a negative environmental impact times millions. On this Slovenian chimney, you only had some guys working hard for a few months, drilling and putting up holds which were later removed. At the same time, the film inspired many to start climbing, doing multi-pitches and even putting up similar things that will not be taken down afterwards.

Red Bull has done large investments in climbing and I am sure they will keep investing as our sport perfectly matches their business idea. We can hope they also could add some interest in rebolting etc., but all in all, we should be grateful for their interest in climbing and creating such a wonderful documentary.

Janja Garnbret and Domen ล kofic are challenged by the tallest artificial multi-pitch route in the world in a chimney at Slovenia's Trbovlje Power Station. The 13 pitches route, graded between 7b and 8b+, was designed by IFSC route setters Katja Vidmar and Simon Margon but it has now been removed. Janja and Domen managed to both do all pitches on their second attempt that lasted 7.5 hours.

โ€œI was a bit scared before the start,โ€ Janja said, โ€œI was afraid of falling, which can get really nasty in case of a vertical wall compared to an overhanging wall where you hang in the air. Here you can quickly hit a wall or a hold before the rope stops you. Thus, I needed to fall a few times until I finally relaxed and banished the fear.โ€ ล koficโ€™s experience of such climbs was hardly much greater having done just one multi-pitch previously. โ€œThe chimney is completely different from anything I've climbed so far. It is a giant, artificial object, which I found rather mystical. I felt discomfort, strong fear of the unknown but I quickly made friends with the chimney, as the route was really beautiful and challenging. Once I started focusing on climbing, all other thoughts were gone, and I was just enjoying itโ€, he said.

Le sens de la fรชte 8B+ FA by Nico Januel (37)
Nico Januel has done the FA of Le sens de la fรชte 8B+ in Dame Jouanne after some ten sessions. Video on his Insta. "I split one of my middle fingers first thing during the warm-up. Proper bleeding, total bummer. So despite feeling in great shape, I knew I only had one shot. And boom, I sent it! Itโ€™s a great feeling, after falling 10-12 times at the dyno!"

The 37-year-old, who is working for the French federation with route setting, coaching and training, has previously done a couple of 8C's. More info at Fanatic Climbing.

There are more than 3 000 crag and boulder areas in the 8a database. Try out our new Crag Ranking feature to see your own ranking at your local crag. Just type in any crag in the search box and then select Ranking. You can choose in between all-time, last year or even last months. Furthermore, you can choose by age, number or routes, as well as redpoint, onsight, or even top rope etc.

Adam Ondra has the most impressive crag ranking with 14 454 points in Flatanger. As a matter of a fact, he has done eight routes in that big roof 9a+ to 9c, all of them FAs.

Pierre Le Cerf, who did his first 9a+ last autumn, has done his fifth 9a, WRC in Castillon. "Demands a lot of endurance. It starts with an 8c+ (Alien Carnage) and finishes in a small 8a+ with twelve moves to get 9a."

In his latest Insta post, the 20-year-old does a 28 second front lever in 28 mm pinkies!

-

Eddie Fowke stops as IFSC photographer
So how did you become the IFSC Photographer?
As many reading this will know, I began The Circuit Climbing in 2013. Its goal was to document the competitive side of climbing and introduce the climbers and their exploits to a broader community as I felt it was extremely underrepresented in the media of the time. Seeing what I was doing, the IFSC approached me in 2014 with the offer of being the official photographer for the IFSC. By bringing me in, someone was already attending the events and had no national bias (few Kiwiโ€™s attend World Cups) it gave them an asset who was impartial and of course, I was already promoting their product through my own platform.

How much work and travel did you put in?
It was an incredible amount of work. Being present at every round from approximately an hour before it began until its conclusion led to extremely long days. Not to mention at the end of the shooting, the sorting, editing and distribution of images began. At a normal World Cup, my workday would be 12 to 16 hours.

In my time as Official photographer, I spent as much time as possible optimizing travel, taking trains or other public transport where possible, and only flying when it was needed. Even so between 2015 and 2020, I spent more than 800 hours in the air, covering in excess of 600,000 kms. Jetlag became a part of life!

What are your best memories?
There are so many amazing memories, that itโ€™s almost impossible to answer that. Any time a climber wins their first World Cup it gives you a huge emotional rush as you know just how much that means to them. More than a couple of times Iโ€™ve had to blink tears from my eyes to keep shooting! I also have great memories of all the people who have come up to thank me over the years, telling me stories of how my images and visual storytelling inspired them. My role has never to be โ€œa nameโ€, that is for the stars of climbing. But to have my work recognised and appreciated is extremely fulfilling.

Two memories that stick out are the first victories of Jernej Kruder in Meiringen and Gabri Moroni in Hachioji. To have seen the effort they both put in over the years finally rewarded was incredible. In competition there are some amazing climbers who never quite achieve what they show the promise to, some because they are in the shadow of one of the greats, others simply because of luck and timing. So seeing those to veterans of the sport finally achieve the top step of the podium after so many years of trying was something that will stick with me forever!

Who are the athletes you think will improve the most in 2021?
After a season away from the sport due to Covid-19, itโ€™s almost impossible to say. Being that the vast majority of what we are seeing is peopleโ€™s personal social media feeds, our perception is coloured by who promotes themselves better on social media which can give a false perspective. I donโ€™t think we will get an honest gauge on the climbers' levels until 2022 at the earliest. There are several incredible young athletes like Colin Duffy from the US and Oriane Bertone from France stepping into the elite competition, and there are many for whom this is the end of their competition journey. And with the likelihood of 2021 being a disrupted season, I think we just need to wait and see!

How could the IFSC comps be improved?
I believe there are many development areas for an organisation like the IFSC. I wonโ€™t go into them here though, as they employ staff to manage the progression of the sport and how it is presented. It is on them to implement the changes required to evolve the sport. And if they donโ€™t? Well, I think that if the IFSC doesnโ€™t progress the sport, the sport will have enough inertia to develop itself. If we had a time machine and could travel to 2030 we would see a very different sport. Just as we are a very different sport today from where we were in 2010.

What will you work with in 2021?
The first objective of 2021 is to complete The Circuit Climbing coffee table book. A book made up of photos and essays covering competition climbing in all its guises from 2015 until the present. This has been the major project of mine (as The Circuit Climbing) during the break from competitions and is one I hope will be a document of historical relevance in the sport for years to come. Secondly, I will be photographing for several major publications within the industry as I document the competitions that happen around the world (if and when they start), as well as maintaining my relationships with the brands who rely on The Circuit Climbing to provide them with the high quality of imagery they require to promote their sponsored athletes.

A dilemma in bouldering is that you can't hang in a quick draw while working the crux. However, if the hardest part is within reach from the ground, your partner can assist you by simply eliminating some weight by pushing you on the back, i.e. power spotting.

This means you can get a feel for how to do the crux, or simply save some energy on the moves before the crux or the top out. Another possibility is to hold the foot and push it towards a small edge, so that it does not slip.