Maël Musson, who this summer sent two 9a’s in Flatanger, has completed Shortcut (9a) in La Balme de Yenne. The following day the 19-year-old sent L'Extremacura plus (8c+) in Gravere.

Can you tell us more about those ascents?
After a long trip to Flatanger this summer, I still wanted to enjoy the outdoors before getting back into serious training. A friend motivated me to go climbing with him at La Balme de Yenne. He knows the area well and introduced me to a few 8c and 8c+ routes. Thanks to his betas and the style of the routes, which suited me perfectly, I was able to climb them fairly quickly. Naturally, I then turned my attention to Short Cut, the extension of Dissidence, an 8c that I had just completed.

Shortcut is a very overhanging route with often complex methods. It suited my style perfectly: most of the holds are good, the moves are physical, and several knee jams allow you to manage the intensity.

With a few days off between classes, and being in one of my best periods of shapes, it was the perfect time to attempt this line. I was hoping to send it in less than four days, but in the end, it only took two. On my second attempt, I managed to link the entire second part. The next day, after a first attempt where I fell just after the last hard move, I was able to send the route on my second attempt of the day. Even though it's certainly not very difficult for a 9a, it was still very cool to climb a route like that.

To end this wonderful week of climbing, I went to Gravere, an iconic area near Turin, where I completed Extremacura Plus, an 8c+ route I had been trying for some time.

What are your autumn and winter plans?
I think I'll train until the end of autumn. At the beginning of winter, I'll try to send a few 9a routes near my home. And at the end of winter, I have a few ideas for 9a+ routes to try in the south of France.

Sorato Anraku, the dominant force in men's competition climbing since joining the senior circuit in 2023, has claimed his first World Championships gold. The 18-year-old had already secured three consecutive Boulder World Cup titles before this latest triumph. Winning in great style, he was #1 in all three rounds.

”knew that I had to finish the last boulder and I’m happy I could do it. I was able to really enjoy my climbing. I usually get stiff in that situation but I was so happy I could do well this time. I don’t know what I’ll do to celebrate. I think I do nothing.”

Claudia Ghisolfi, who last weekend did her second 9a, has repeated Cedric Lo Piccolo’s Tango to nik (8c+) in Gorges du Loup. (c) Alberto di Guida

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
"Tango to nik" is the route on the right of "Trip tik tonik". They share the last 5 quikdraws so last weekend after sending the 9a I decided to try the 8c+. It starts with an hard 8a+ than there is a tricky section and a not easy traverse to join TTT.

Noah Wheeler, who earlier this year sent his first two 9A’s, has done Topaz (8C) in Wild Basin. ”1st try this season! Found some new beta last season where you skip the foot sequence and just campus bump to the edge. Worked on fingers and tension alot this summer so it felt pretty chill this time around.”

Can you tell us more about your summer training?
Training for some crimpy tensiony climbs abroad (I’ll keep it a secret for now) so I’ve been really focused on that style. I’ve been almost exclusively board climbing, but in a very structured manner, emphasizing foot tension circuits and climbs for the bulk of sessions intermixed with crimpy campus and dead point style climbs, with capacity training at the end of the sessions. Going to Europe later this fall/winter!

Sungsu Lee, who did his first 8C a year and a half ago, has sent Sosa (8C+) in Little Cottonwood. In total, the 26-year-old has completed a dozen boulders ranging from 8C to 9A. ”A Banger from Zach.”(c) Taylor Bolt

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I did it after Grand Illusion (8C+) but I finished just two days before heading back to Korea. I think it took around 7 sessions. The hardest part was falling more than 10 times on the final jump move. If I get the chance, I’d love to come back to SLC again—the good vibes and good friends are already making me miss it.

What are your autumn and winter plans?
In the fall, I think I’ll head to Mizugaki, and in the winter, I’m not sure yet, but I’m considering Red Rocks!

Janja Garnbret won her tenth World Championship gold in a very intense fight over Oriane Bertone, who flashed the first three and had her fingers on the top of the last.

It’s incredible, honestly. I don’t know if I wished that this would happen, but today I just climbed with my heart. I felt kind of empty from yesterday’s Lead semi and final, after winning the adrenaline goes a little down but I really just focused on myself and my climbing and luckily it worked out today. You kind of know what is going on, but not really. I knew already at the observation that the boulders were not that hard, maybe the last one was the hardest, but I knew there wasn’t a lot of room for mistakes. I knew what I had to do on the last boulder as I knew Oriane didn’t top. It definitely looked like my style and I knew I would top it, but it adds a bit of pressure.”

Lee Dohyun, who won his first Lead World Cup this summer, claimed victory in front of his home crowd, based on countback from the semi. Last year the Korean won his second and third Boulder World Cup and he was ranked third in the qualification earlier this week.

“I feel amazing. It’s my dream to win a World Championship, and it has come true. I’m lost for words. This is my hometown and my parents and friends are here so it means a lot. When I was young I was a Lead climber and when I did Boulder my results were good, so I changed to Boulder, but I like to do both. I’m not sure about winning another medal in Boulder, but I am confident in my Boulder, so I will just do my best.”

After having won both the qualification and semi, Janja Garnbret created the best finnish of the Lead World Championship by topping the final route.

”This one feels extra special. After last year, the Olympic year, where the pressure was the highest, I didn’t know if I could handle another year with another important competition, but I am so glad I did this World Champs. My body was ready, and my mind was at peace with myself and whatever happened would happen, and it’s another world title and I am so excited. Today there is no time to celebrate. I’ll do that after tomorrow. The excitement is super high and I’m excited to get on the boulder wall tomorrow and do my best. I hope I will be able to sleep tonight as I will be buzzing in my bed, but I’m looking forward to tomorrows comp.”

Sorato Anraku, the big favorite at the World Championship in Korea, finished in tenth place in the semifinal. During the qualification round, another of the big names, Toby Roberts, was eliminated, placing 25th. Complete semi results.

The biggest sensation during the women's semifinal at the World Championship in Korea was that Laura Rogora narrowly missed the final, finishing in ninth place. Complete semi results.