Maël Musson climbs Shortcut (9a)

Maël Musson, who this summer sent two 9a’s in Flatanger, has completed Shortcut (9a) in La Balme de Yenne. The following day the 19-year-old sent L'Extremacura plus (8c+) in Gravere.

Can you tell us more about those ascents?
After a long trip to Flatanger this summer, I still wanted to enjoy the outdoors before getting back into serious training. A friend motivated me to go climbing with him at La Balme de Yenne. He knows the area well and introduced me to a few 8c and 8c+ routes. Thanks to his betas and the style of the routes, which suited me perfectly, I was able to climb them fairly quickly. Naturally, I then turned my attention to Short Cut, the extension of Dissidence, an 8c that I had just completed.

Shortcut is a very overhanging route with often complex methods. It suited my style perfectly: most of the holds are good, the moves are physical, and several knee jams allow you to manage the intensity.

With a few days off between classes, and being in one of my best periods of shapes, it was the perfect time to attempt this line. I was hoping to send it in less than four days, but in the end, it only took two. On my second attempt, I managed to link the entire second part. The next day, after a first attempt where I fell just after the last hard move, I was able to send the route on my second attempt of the day. Even though it's certainly not very difficult for a 9a, it was still very cool to climb a route like that.

To end this wonderful week of climbing, I went to Gravere, an iconic area near Turin, where I completed Extremacura Plus, an 8c+ route I had been trying for some time.

What are your autumn and winter plans?
I think I'll train until the end of autumn. At the beginning of winter, I'll try to send a few 9a routes near my home. And at the end of winter, I have a few ideas for 9a+ routes to try in the south of France.