Jernej Kruder, one of the best multi-discipline climbers out there, has repeated Connor Herson’s The Shark (8c) mix in Squamish. In 2018, the 34-year-old Slovenian won the Boulder World Cup, and his outdoor résumé is extreme: 9a+ DWS, 9a+ FA, 9a trad, and several 8C boulders, in addition to having climbed multi-pitches up to 8c.

”Jet lag, swollen knuckles, and a satisfied mind. That’s how I feel on my first day back home from Canada. Although my eyes were set on a different goal, I made the most of my three weeks there. Cobra Crack had been on my mind since the beginning of the year. I couldn’t train too much specifically for it because of its nature—a finger crack. On top of that, I was busy in the last weeks of August, preparing everything for my festival, Kanjonfest. The event was so intense that, between the festival and my flight to Canada, I ended up in bed with a high fever. Luckily, it lasted only a day. I felt surprisingly good when I arrived in Squamish, but my body wasn’t as strong as I had hoped. Even worse—I couldn’t do most of the moves on Cobra. I split a finger, and my main finger was too big to fit inside the crack. I was disappointed, but also happy that I had an alternative project in mind—The Shark (5.14b, same grade as Cobra).

This line was steeper, and I started to believe it could be a better goal for the trip. It has only seen two ascents so far: Connor Herson and Didier Berthod. Soon I realized that I didn’t have many days left to close the project. The route is hard right from the start: leaving a ledge directly into a chicken-wing dihedral. A bouldery passage into the crack drains a lot of energy and leads into a pumpy, no-rest finger crack. After three bolts, the first gear placement is a blue Totem. The resistant crack gradually opens to a purple size until you finally reach a decent rest. The wall then turns into a roof layback with some good hand jams. Another passage through the roof with more laybacks and fist jams takes away even more energy. From there, an okay rest leads into the final crux: starting with a poor ring-lock that goes into flared hand jams or sloppy underclings. A tired body has to fight through on finger jams before clipping the chains.

The route was so hard that I knew I had to dedicate every day to it if I wanted to finish within the same trip. The start was so complex that I changed my beta almost daily. The upper crux wasn’t too problematic, but I knew it would be brutal to arrive there exhausted. I was slowly progressing on pre-placed gear, but my days were running out. Five days before leaving, I finally had a promising go. I climbed the route with only two hangs on pre-placed gear. But still, I couldn’t get through the start smoothly, and when clipping the anchor, my lungs were screaming for oxygen. I had to take a rest day. I still didn’t really believe I could send it on this trip. On my rest day I decided to go biking in Whistler. That left me with only two more days, plus a potential last morning before my flight. The first day after biking was bad—my shoulders were sore, and I didn’t feel like giving a proper go. I only tried once, ripped a chunk of skin off my finger, and pinned all my hopes on the next day, as I had found a slightly better solution for the start. That gave me motivation again. Now it was time to try the route while placing gear. Twice I almost made it to the first rest. I blamed the still weather with no breeze and made the risky decision to give it one last try on my final day. Giacomo, a friend who was also trying the route, woke up with me again—this time just for me. He was tired, and there wasn’t time for both of us to climb. Luckily, the route is in the shade in the morning, and there was a good breeze. After an hour or so, we were back on the ledge where we had already spent eight days together. I only taped the finger that really needed it, plus the one missing a chunk of skin. I added some superglue to imitate missing skin. I felt good and reached my high point again. But that wasn’t enough. I cleaned the route, taped another finger, and rested properly.

The second try was even better—a strong fight, though I had a moment of insecurity and fell. Time was ticking, and I had only one chance left with a short rest. After about 20 minutes, I taped another bloody finger and started climbing. This time I focused on my breathing and surprised myself by not falling through all the hard opening moves. I reached the same tight hands as in my previous try—but this time I didn’t let go. I took a solid rest and then climbed smoothly to the top, placing only six cams in total. A huge victory scream followed as I clipped the chains. I cleaned the route and ran down to catch my flight. I was almost a little disappointed that I didn’t get to try more of the tempting multipitch routes in Squamish, but I was proud to have kept my focus until the very end. In the end, I still managed to climb over 1,000 meters of easier multipitch routes up to 5.10 in free solo style, while also ticking off two classics like Zombie Roof (5.13a) and Project Grizzly (5.13b), and onsighting Freeway (5.11c, 10 pitches).”

Maël Musson, who this summer sent two 9a’s in Flatanger, has completed Shortcut (9a) in La Balme de Yenne. The following day the 19-year-old sent L'Extremacura plus (8c+) in Gravere.

Can you tell us more about those ascents?
After a long trip to Flatanger this summer, I still wanted to enjoy the outdoors before getting back into serious training. A friend motivated me to go climbing with him at La Balme de Yenne. He knows the area well and introduced me to a few 8c and 8c+ routes. Thanks to his betas and the style of the routes, which suited me perfectly, I was able to climb them fairly quickly. Naturally, I then turned my attention to Short Cut, the extension of Dissidence, an 8c that I had just completed.

Shortcut is a very overhanging route with often complex methods. It suited my style perfectly: most of the holds are good, the moves are physical, and several knee jams allow you to manage the intensity.

With a few days off between classes, and being in one of my best periods of shapes, it was the perfect time to attempt this line. I was hoping to send it in less than four days, but in the end, it only took two. On my second attempt, I managed to link the entire second part. The next day, after a first attempt where I fell just after the last hard move, I was able to send the route on my second attempt of the day. Even though it's certainly not very difficult for a 9a, it was still very cool to climb a route like that.

To end this wonderful week of climbing, I went to Gravere, an iconic area near Turin, where I completed Extremacura Plus, an 8c+ route I had been trying for some time.

What are your autumn and winter plans?
I think I'll train until the end of autumn. At the beginning of winter, I'll try to send a few 9a routes near my home. And at the end of winter, I have a few ideas for 9a+ routes to try in the south of France.

Sorato Anraku, the dominant force in men's competition climbing since joining the senior circuit in 2023, has claimed his first World Championships gold. The 18-year-old had already secured three consecutive Boulder World Cup titles before this latest triumph. Winning in great style, he was #1 in all three rounds.

”knew that I had to finish the last boulder and I’m happy I could do it. I was able to really enjoy my climbing. I usually get stiff in that situation but I was so happy I could do well this time. I don’t know what I’ll do to celebrate. I think I do nothing.”

Claudia Ghisolfi, who last weekend did her second 9a, has repeated Cedric Lo Piccolo’s Tango to nik (8c+) in Gorges du Loup. (c) Alberto di Guida

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
"Tango to nik" is the route on the right of "Trip tik tonik". They share the last 5 quikdraws so last weekend after sending the 9a I decided to try the 8c+. It starts with an hard 8a+ than there is a tricky section and a not easy traverse to join TTT.

Noah Wheeler, who earlier this year sent his first two 9A’s, has done Topaz (8C) in Wild Basin. ”1st try this season! Found some new beta last season where you skip the foot sequence and just campus bump to the edge. Worked on fingers and tension alot this summer so it felt pretty chill this time around.”

Can you tell us more about your summer training?
Training for some crimpy tensiony climbs abroad (I’ll keep it a secret for now) so I’ve been really focused on that style. I’ve been almost exclusively board climbing, but in a very structured manner, emphasizing foot tension circuits and climbs for the bulk of sessions intermixed with crimpy campus and dead point style climbs, with capacity training at the end of the sessions. Going to Europe later this fall/winter!

Sungsu Lee, who did his first 8C a year and a half ago, has sent Sosa (8C+) in Little Cottonwood. In total, the 26-year-old has completed a dozen boulders ranging from 8C to 9A. ”A Banger from Zach.”(c) Taylor Bolt

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I did it after Grand Illusion (8C+) but I finished just two days before heading back to Korea. I think it took around 7 sessions. The hardest part was falling more than 10 times on the final jump move. If I get the chance, I’d love to come back to SLC again—the good vibes and good friends are already making me miss it.

What are your autumn and winter plans?
In the fall, I think I’ll head to Mizugaki, and in the winter, I’m not sure yet, but I’m considering Red Rocks!

Janja Garnbret won her tenth World Championship gold in a very intense fight over Oriane Bertone, who flashed the first three and had her fingers on the top of the last.

It’s incredible, honestly. I don’t know if I wished that this would happen, but today I just climbed with my heart. I felt kind of empty from yesterday’s Lead semi and final, after winning the adrenaline goes a little down but I really just focused on myself and my climbing and luckily it worked out today. You kind of know what is going on, but not really. I knew already at the observation that the boulders were not that hard, maybe the last one was the hardest, but I knew there wasn’t a lot of room for mistakes. I knew what I had to do on the last boulder as I knew Oriane didn’t top. It definitely looked like my style and I knew I would top it, but it adds a bit of pressure.”

Lee Dohyun, who won his first Lead World Cup this summer, claimed victory in front of his home crowd, based on countback from the semi. Last year the Korean won his second and third Boulder World Cup and he was ranked third in the qualification earlier this week.

“I feel amazing. It’s my dream to win a World Championship, and it has come true. I’m lost for words. This is my hometown and my parents and friends are here so it means a lot. When I was young I was a Lead climber and when I did Boulder my results were good, so I changed to Boulder, but I like to do both. I’m not sure about winning another medal in Boulder, but I am confident in my Boulder, so I will just do my best.”

After having won both the qualification and semi, Janja Garnbret created the best finnish of the Lead World Championship by topping the final route.

”This one feels extra special. After last year, the Olympic year, where the pressure was the highest, I didn’t know if I could handle another year with another important competition, but I am so glad I did this World Champs. My body was ready, and my mind was at peace with myself and whatever happened would happen, and it’s another world title and I am so excited. Today there is no time to celebrate. I’ll do that after tomorrow. The excitement is super high and I’m excited to get on the boulder wall tomorrow and do my best. I hope I will be able to sleep tonight as I will be buzzing in my bed, but I’m looking forward to tomorrows comp.”

Sorato Anraku, the big favorite at the World Championship in Korea, finished in tenth place in the semifinal. During the qualification round, another of the big names, Toby Roberts, was eliminated, placing 25th. Complete semi results.