Daniel Woods reports on Insta, (c) Bobby Sorich, that he has done the FA of Return of the Sleepwalker 9A which is a pure 8B sit start into Jimmy Webb's Sleepwalker 8C+ in Red Rocks. Video from 2019 when Daniel did the 8C+.
"It’s all just a game people... and I play the game

The game is how comfortable can you become with your own insanity"

Already in February, he announced that he had done Sleepwalker from the stand 15 times out of which four times during one session. His insanity is best explained in an Insta one week ago where he, among other things, says; "I don’t sleep at night because of it. I don’t think about anything else in life besides internally feeling my flow on this thing. Figuring out how to speed sections up, when to breathe, when to hold my breath, when to ramp up, when to slow down."

The 31-year-old has created headlines during the last 15 years, and with more than 25 8C's and 6 8C+'s he has the most impressive boulder tick list in the world. Add to that 20+ 9a to 9b as well as winning a World Cup in 2010, and he is one of the world's best sport climbers. More to come including a video!

Alex Garriga, who previously has repeated three 9a+ and done seven 9a FAs, has done the FA of Malleus Maleficarum 9a+ in Cuenca. "The hardest thing I ever did by far. Brutal thanks, my friends." (c) Alfonso Martinez

Please describe the route. How many one- and two-finger pockets etc?
5-6 one finger and around 8 two fingers. Starts with 10 m 7c+ then a hard boulder with a low percentage move, followed by a big roof with big moves and then a vertical finish with a lot of endurance. In total 30-35 meters. It is the route that has cost me the most.

What is next?
Trying to do the routes and boulders close to my home until the situation improve. We are not allowed to leave our region in Spain. I would like to try some routes in Cataluña someday.

"Seb Bouin heads to the crag where the evolution of french free climbing took place, and to meet the protagonists who created the pages in its history books."

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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Insta that he has repeated Chris Sharma's First Round First Minute 9b in Margalef. (c) Adri Martinez

The 21-year-old did the easier variation First Ley 9a+ at the beginning of March and then he needed nine more sessions to link it to the final two quick draw crux of FRFM. In total, he has now done six 9b's and 13 9a+ and Jorge has been the #1 in the 8a ranking game the last two years.

Loic Zehani has done tha FA of Les colos travlo 9a (+) in Orgon. "It is a very natural route with a great gesture bolted by Olivier Bert. It is a resistance route in an overhang. You have to do the same 1st hard section as "Les colos fachos" then a nice diagonal on the right with beautiful movements. For the difficulty, I would say a small 9a+ or only a big 9a. This is the most beautiful hard route of Orgon."

In total, the 19-year-old has done 29 routes 9a to 9b out of which 17 FAs. Loic did his first 9a at age 13, video, and it is still unrepeated.

Via Google Earth, you can pretty much see pictures of most houses and streets in the world. Now, this service will also include such pictures for hikers as well as climbers in order to get more people into nature. In a unique test, 8a has provided all GPS coordinates of our more than 5 500 crags to Google and they will start taking pictures every day at noon. This means that if you top out a route at noon your picture will be available through Google on the World Wide Web.

If this turns out great, Google will also start filming climbing 24/7 on a gigantic live-stream. IFSC are also involved and there will be judges monitoring special competition crags and via the satellite system, you will see green stars blinking for top-outs 8a and harder. In the longer run, such "green stars" ascent will automatically be recorded in the 8a database. So remember to always look up and give a smile and a thumbs up around noon and you might just go viral.

Here are the poll results, based on almost 1 400 unique answers, to the question What skill do you lack the most?

27% Finger strength
23% Endurance
18% Flexibility
17% Mental
08% Technique
6% Other (Power and Strength most mentioned)

I started out as a junior national coach about 20 years ago and have been coaching since. I agree that W-en it comes to those who have climbed for many years and are focusing on competitions, the results are expected. However, when it comes to rock climbers, I think technique is what is lacking the most. Most older climbers get their ass kicked indoors by the new generation but still, outdoors we can almost keep the same level. One possible reason for the respondents' perceived lack of physical strength is all the online strength coaches out there.

Moritz Welt has done his 13th 9a, Halupca 1979 in Osp/Misja Pec. This was also his 8c and harder #100.

"My main goal for this trip, already some tries back in 2017, luckily only three sessions this time. One of the best I've done so far, various hard moves and lots of styles combined in one route!" (c) Miro Enze

Could you please describe the route
It is about 25m long with about 10m in horizontal roof. I made 3 kneebars but I think even more would be possible. There is actually a second pitch bolted which could possibly add another 8c or 8c+ and make it a 50m cave climb... maybe someone should try that in the future :) The extension has been done from Troja 8a as Couch Surfing 8c+.

What is next?
So it's my last week here and I have one more hard project (Sanski Par 9a) ready for some tries. But I also want to enjoy some easier holiday climbing on my last days :)