Jessica Pilz, who did not participate in Speed or Bouldering during the second weekend in Salt Lake City. The reason for this, as reported on her Insta, was that she fully ruptured her A4 pulley on her left ring finger during the finals last weekend.

"During the 2nd boulder I heard a quite crunch from my left ring finger, I stopped for a moment but pain didn’t kick in, so I finished the boulder and went back... I couldn’t hold a crimp anymore but still continued because Boulder 3 consisted only of slopers."

Under normal circumstances, this could require surgery and then it would take at least six months to be back on track. As the Olympics is coming up in two months, it just might be that she will tape her fingers and as much as possible avoid crimping with her left hand in Tokyo. In SLC, Jessica was ranked #4 on Boulder three getting the zone in her second attempt. With some luck, meaning no mandatory crimps with her left hand in Tokyo, she can still get a decent result.

Antoine Kauffmann has done the second repeat of Aloha 9a (+) in Kronthal which Yann Corby, who took the picture, bolted in 2006. The FA was done one year later by Julius Westphal and Adam Ondra did the first repeat in 2009. Kauffmann, who did The Big Island giving it a personal 8B+ grade this February, says he needed 12 sessions to take Aloha down and comments on the grade on his Insta. "Considering the route feels harder than the others 9a I have done before, that it suit my style perfectly and knowing the route was unrepeated for 12 years, I think the grade might be slightly harder than 9a."

So could this be 9a+ comparing how long time projecting the other 9a and 9a+ you did before?
That’s definitely not 9a+ but it feels hard for 9a. But I may be wrong because that’s the shortest hard route I have ever done. Actually, I don’t like grade drama and I am not enough experienced to be sure about the grade. Regarding my previous ascents, I don't remember well but it was something like the same amount of days (10-15) but I was way weaker.

Interesting is that the Westphal did not use a knee pad and that his other 9a FA, Gegen den Strom from 2014, is still unrepeated. His third 9a is Action Directe. Neither Ondra used a knee pad, when he did it being 16-years-old and probably 180 cm tall, and commented that it might be 9a+ for shorter guys.

Tom O'Halloran, the Oceania Olympic representative, who previously has done three 9a's, out of which two FA's, has done the FA of Cheesecake 9a in Nowra. It is 10 meters and 19 moves in total which took him 5-6 sessions to do. Interestingly, there are two extensions to be done making it an, at least, 40 meters long 9b+. "There was a move I couldn’t do last year and it was difficult to link more than a few moves together. I was able to quickly do the undone move this season and get some very good links on day one. In the end, it felt easy."

Please say something about the possible extensions?
There is a 15 meter 9a section that you can climb right after clipping the anchor of Cheesecake. A friend bolted it about 10 years ago and I spent 2 days cleaning it up last year as it had not been tried since. I then bolted a further extension to the top of the cave. Another 10-15m which, in itself will be perhaps 36+. So all in all the project will be bouldery 9a into sustained 9a into very bouldery and sustained 9a++. All separated by good rests. It could be Australia’s first 9b+ when it goes. I’m very excited to invest time into it when the Olympics is over.

Will you do any international comps before Tokyo?
No international comps in the lead up to the Olympics. Australia has very strict 2-week hotel quarantine rules when you arrive back from overseas. Being stuck in a hotel room for 2 weeks away from training is not worth it for a comp. I’m ok with it though. We have a state lead and speed comp coming up and there will be a local boulder comp right 10 days before I fly out.

How is your Olympic training preparation going on?
Olympic prep is coming along well. I just keep training hard and doing the best with what I have. We will do some comp simulations and I’ll do the two domestic competitions we have before I leave. I feel confident in the plan my coach has put together and my partner is a sport dietitian so I have my nutrition sorted too. I can’t wait to put on my uniform and compete with everyone else. It’s going to be great.

How much and how do you train and what about Speed training and PB
The last training periods were every day basically, 2-3 sessions a day. The intensity varied though. Not every day was max efforts. The next 2 months will be more about climbing and climbing well. Speed is 7.07 and I train it 2 sessions a week on the wall
How much financial support are you getting from your Olympic committee?
Nothing really. We are in a fringe sport globally and in Australia, it’s even more fringe. I’m doing my best to bring more public awareness to the sport. If the public gets psyched, the people with money start to notice, from there, things become easier. No excuses though 😀 I’m psyched with where I’m at and totally humbled to be the person stepping into new territory here in Aust. I hope to see more Australians on podiums soon!

So are you working or how do you get food on the table for your family?
I am working bits and pieces. I have also been fortunate to have people donate to a crowdfunding page to help me with preparations. I have had some sponsors help out with a small amount of financial support as well. It all adds up to get us through.

Claudia Ghisolfi, who last month did her first 8c+, has done one more by L'extremacura plus in Gravere. "Much easier than Noia which was my first 8c+. With a practically complete recovery after the first part 8a+ part, I would say more 8c/+. But still super happy!" (c) Fabio Fin

How many sessions did it take to send?
I did L'extremacura 8c in 2019, which was my first 8c. I did choose not to try the extension at the end that gives the 8c+ because the season to climb there was finished and competitions were around the corner. In 2020, cause of covid and other reasons, I didn't try it and this year I was at home for the same days. Usually, I live in Turin near this crag but in this period I live in Trentino, so I decided to try it in the afternoon/evening after the morning session. I did it in three afternoons 😊

James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini, professional and very successful climbers for many years, tell their story about becoming parents. "What started as a simple documentary about parenthood and climbing passion has become more of a discussion about risk and raising children in our world. It is interesting for parents, future parents, but also anyone who has been a child :)"

Caro explains that she was 22-years-old when her mum committed suicide and this is one reason why she also could accept taking risks being a mum. James says in the video, "We are still prepared to put ourselves into situations that might ultimately leave Arthur without parents."

Daniel Fuertes, who did his first 9b last year, has done the fourth ascent of Jorge Diaz-Rullo's Patanics 9a+ in Rodellar. In the 40+ ranking game, Dani is a superior #1. (c) Nacho Fuertes Olles

How is the route and how many sessions did it take etc?
I think about 15 days more or less. I haven’t done any special training, just trying it 2 or 3 days a week and 2 days bouldering indoors. I am very happy for sending this amazing “King line” of Rodellar. This route was my big goal for this year! It is a 50 meters endurance test piece. It has been a great physical and mental battle. Thanks to everyone who accompanied me.

Brooke Raboutou from the USA was the big sensation during the Salt Lake City World Cups, getting two bronzes in Boulder. By comparison, her best previous result since 2018 was #21. Interestingly, during the World Championship in 2019, where she qualified to Tokyo, she made it to the Combined qualification by being #24 in Speed, #41 in Bouldering, and #15 in Lead. Then in the Top-20 qualification, she was #6 in Speed, #10 in Bouldering and #7 in Lead, which put her #9 overall. So if she has made some progress also in Lead since she was 17 years old she is a strong contender for the Top 5 in Tokyo. (c) Daniel Gajda

Brooke, who is currently #2 in the 8a boulder ranking game, is the daughter of Robin Erbesfield and Didier Raboutou, both having won several World Cups. As a matter of a fact, Robin was the best female competition climber during the early '90s, with four overall titles. She is also a very successful coach through her ABC Kids Climbing and still does 8a's being 55+. Shawn Raboutou is Brooke's older brother and he is one of the very best boulderers out there.

Other than that, actually, only the big names for Tokyo strengthen their positions in Salt Lake City. Adam Ondra won the first event before he stopped competing due to problems with his right shoulder. In one way, the biggest sensation was Janja Garnbret setting a new Speed PB with 8.36, being the fastest out of all the non-Speed specialists. It should be mentioned that Miho Nonaka was #3 overall in Speed and her PB is 8.20.

Irina Kuzmenko has done her second 8B in the last month, Ayran in Djan-tugan. It was put up by her boyfriend, Vadim Timonov last week. In 2019, both got the bronze in the European Championship. "Amazing boulder! Very hard for core! After I did this boulder felt like my whole upper body is stronger! So happy!!!" Video on her Insta

How was the process taking it down?
I tried it out during 2 sessions last year. It wasn’t actually sessions I think, more like 2 attempts and frustration:) So last year there was one move I couldn't do. This year I did all the moves in the 2nd session and then I had 3 more sessions to put it together and struggling with the very hot sun! :) The boulder is very hard and of course. My beta was special, because I’m not that tall and this changing on bad undercling...wow, super hard! Vadim told me that he’ll never do that 😂Thanks to him btw for the FA!

Molly Thompson-Smith, who did not make the semi in any of the two Boulder WC's in Salt Lake City, was much more successful outdoors having done Euro Roof Low Low 8B in Little Cottonwood Canyon, on her second session. Interestingly, also her first 8B, which she did last month, she did on her second session. In the 8a ranking game, the 23-year-old is #11. On her Insta, she does a shorter 8A+ version.

1. Natalia Grossman (19) USA 265 - Adam Ondra CZE 200
2. Oriane Bertone (16) FRA 215 - Kokoro Fujii JPN 190
3. Janja Garnbret SLO 180 - Sean Bailey USA 166
4. Brooke Raboutou (19) USA 167 - Yushiyuki Ogata JPN 155
5. Miho Nonaka JPN 145 - Mejdi Schalck (17) FRA 145
Complete results

The fourth event will take place 23-26/6 in Innsbruck and the last two events are scheduled in October, in Korea and China. Out of the six events, the Top-5 counts. From the above rankings, Ondra and Garnbret have earned their points from two competitions.