Simon Lorenzi reports with an Insta video that he has done La force tranquille 8C in Magic Wood, in just five sessions. Next is Power of now which he was close on already during the first session. The 24-year-old won the Lead Youth World Champion in 2016 and the year after he did Action Directe 9a. Later he focused on comps but without any good results. Then suddenly in 2021, after he had done the FA of The Big Island 9A, he has been 7 - 12 - 5 in the three last Boulder WCs.

How can you explain your sudden extreme progress in the Boulder WCs?
I totally changed my way of training and focused on the technical, tactical and mental aspects this year. I almost did no specific physical training this year to focus on those others aspects. I'm working a lot more on slabs than before, I do a lot of simulation of competition and I'm working with a sport psychologist.

Interestingly, the 168 cm tall says that next is Power of Now 8C which he was close on already during the first session (in spite of not focusing on physical power training :)

"It was a place I wanted to visit for many years, but the logistics weren't super easy. The weather is a bit tricky up there: it rains quite often (this is also why the rock is so incredible) and it stays wet for more days. Even if the holds might appear dry on the surface, it is better to let more days of dry weather to let the fragile rock drying up properly. So my advice for visiting this place is to be really patient and plan it only when you have more days in a row.

The rock gets polished quickly, so we must be careful with chalk. As usual the wear and tear of sandstone happens if we climb.. It is only up to us to take care of this, protect it and to avoid that this process speed up."

Stefan Scherz, who won Euro Youth events in both Lead and Bouldering in 2019, has done his third 9a, Kein Licht Kein Schatten in Ötztal. "Best I've done so far. 4th ascent. Took me quite some time and nerves. Felt harder than anything I've done before." (c) Insta

How was the process taking it down and what is next?
I’ve been trying this route on & off for about a year now. The first few sessions I was on it, I tried the beta of Jakob Schubert which felt hard but definitely doable! Later, I switched beta in two different sections and I felt even more confident to send it. Winter hit Austria and I spent two desperate sessions trying with numb fingertips but realized I’ve to wait until spring to send it. It took me two sessions this year but finally, with good conditions, I was able to send it! Now, WC’s in Chamonix and Briançon are the next goals.

Nearly 1500 8a members have submitted their predictions so far. You can still join anytime up until the beginning of the competition in Tokyo! To give everyone more ways to collect points for the raffle, we have added six questions to the game. Submit your answers until the beginning of the competition to increase your chances of winning a prize.
Once the official results are announced, each answer and ranking you predicted correctly will earn you 100 points and one ticket towards the raffle. If you are among the participants with the most points, you will be entered into the raffle for the Adidas grand prize. All participants receive a one-month Vertical-Life Premium voucher, providing you with an extensive digital guidebook library, just in time for a summer road trip!

Alex Puccio has done her 73rd 8A+, Ain't no heaven for a thug in Wild Basin. Picture form her Insta, where she also comments. "This roof is pretty fun! Kinda like an outdoor gym. 😛".

Including also 8 8B+' and 39 8B's, the 32-year-old has the most impressive female tick list. When it comes to competitions, she has got one silver in the World Championship, two World Cup wins and eleven Nationals. In spite of this, she has had some bad luck with several serious injuries over the years.

Pleun Frank has done her first 8A, Pressure drop in Zillertal. The 18-year-old is from the Netherlands and has only been climbing outside a handful of times before. Last summer she did three 7C's.

"I initially did not come to Austria for climbing outside. I competed in the World Cup in Innsbruck first. My coach Michiel, teammate Don and I did plan to go climb outside for three days because we were already there. We tried looking for a hard boulder to see what I could do in it, but I never thought I would climb 8A that fast! Together with Michiel and Don I was able to find out the right beta in an hour. The day after I fell from the top hold, took a day of resting and on the third day, it rained so I had no choice but to do it.

Even though the competition didn't go so well, I was able to end the trip with a nice new outside boulder on my list. I hope to come back soon to Zillertal to try more boulders and enjoy the beautiful surroundings."

Adam Ondra has published his chat with Pietro Dal Pra, who has been working in La Sportiva for 20+ years, on AdamOndra.com. Interestingly, both Adam and Pietro, think that resoled shoes are better than a new one. La Sportiva has 41 official authorized resolers spread out in Europe including one at their factory in the Dolomites.

Adam: I’d also like to get to resoling the shoes. I climb almost every day and I consume 12 or 14 pairs a year. That’s a lot....The good thing is that it’s not only good for the environment, but it could actually be a better shoe. It could perform better!
Pietro: I think, after the first resoling, you’ll have the best shoes you can get. Because the upper part already has the shape of your foot, it’s already a bit softer, and we resole the sole. We are really pushing, as a company, in the direction of resoling. Because environmentally…we have to do it.
Adam: Maybe a good advice would be to send it for resoling before it’s completely destroyed.
Pietro: This is a very good point, actually. Many climbers would like to save some money, so they climb a little bit more, and a little bit more, and so on. But in the end, they would have saved more money if they had sent the shoe to be resoled earlier.

Chuck Odette, who did his first 8b+/c last year at age 64, shares his story of getting umbilical hernia after a weird fall.

”The fall was diagonal, moving right to left, on semi steep terrain. Maybe 20-25 degrees over hanging. In was about 8 feet past the crux bolt. I stuck the hard move but my left hand popped off a small hold and my body corkscrewed outward so I was facing away from the rock. I fell about 20 feet sideways. At the end of the fall my harness waist belt rode up into my lower left rib area with heavy impact. This caused the torn connective tissue damage on my left side.

I continued climbing but eventually had to stop due to the pain and discomfort of both injuries. Two weeks later now, my side is still healing and super sore. I can push the hernia back into place but it pops back out with any exertion. Evan a sneeze or cough will pop it back out.

I'll be better after surgery for the hernia which happens on 12 July. Off for a couple of weeks of recovery after surgery then some rehab (2-4 weeks) and I will be back in action.

Turns out umbilical hernias are common among climbers of all ages. They're only fixable with surgery. Left neglected they can get worse and become life threatening. The surgery is minor if done early after diagnosis. I've encountered a few climbers who have been dealing with this injury for a while. Not good. Might be good to get this message out.

Symptoms of abdominal hernia are a lump near the navel. Hernias can also appear in the upper and lower abdominal area as well as the groin. It's basically a section of small intestine being forced out through the abdominal muscles creating a permanent hole or weakness, thus the need for minor surgery. The condition is more uncomfortable than painful. However, if untreated, can become incredibly painful obviously.”