10 July 2021
La force tranquille 8C by Simon Lorenzi
Simon Lorenzi reports with an Insta video that he has done La force tranquille 8C in Magic Wood, in just five sessions. Next is Power of now which he was close on already during the first session. The 24-year-old won the Lead Youth World Champion in 2016 and the year after he did Action Directe 9a. Later he focused on comps but without any good results. Then suddenly in 2021, after he had done the FA of The Big Island 9A, he has been 7 - 12 - 5 in the three last Boulder WCs.
How can you explain your sudden extreme progress in the Boulder WCs?
I totally changed my way of training and focused on the technical, tactical and mental aspects this year. I almost did no specific physical training this year to focus on those others aspects. I'm working a lot more on slabs than before, I do a lot of simulation of competition and I'm working with a sport psychologist.
Interestingly, the 168 cm tall says that next is Power of Now 8C which he was close on already during the first session (in spite of not focusing on physical power training :)
How can you explain your sudden extreme progress in the Boulder WCs?
I totally changed my way of training and focused on the technical, tactical and mental aspects this year. I almost did no specific physical training this year to focus on those others aspects. I'm working a lot more on slabs than before, I do a lot of simulation of competition and I'm working with a sport psychologist.
Interestingly, the 168 cm tall says that next is Power of Now 8C which he was close on already during the first session (in spite of not focusing on physical power training :)
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