Jonathan Siegrist has done the first ascent of Samadhi (9a) in The Pagoda. The 40-year-old has now sent 97 routes 9a and beyond out of which 12 only the last year. (c) Ryan White

Can you give us the full story from finding the line, bolting and sending it?
I found and started developing this area last fall. Right away I was super psyched because of how unique and high quality the rock and features were. I put in a bunch of work last year and then as soon as it warmed up enough I was back this spring. This line in particular looked like it could be impossible from the ground but when I got closer I could see just enough holds, all really bad - but the rock was excellent and so interesting. The first several days I didn't even do all of the moves but eventually I learned the body positions and started to trust my feet a bit better.

The meat of the route is only around 20 moves but every move is hard and there is no rest. I was struggling a bit to make progress with two very hard sections but could feel that a breakthrough was coming - to my big surprise the breakthrough was nailing both hard parts on the next try and sending the route! It has to be one of the best routes in this grade range I have ever bolted. It's just hard not to love climbing on such perfect rock.

Noah Wheeler, who four months ago fully ruptured his left ring A2 pulley, has repeated Nalle Hukkataival’s Burden of Dreams (9A) in Lappnor. Technically, he actually had to send it twice as he touched the pad with his left toe on the first cut loose move. In 2025, the 23-year-old sent his first two 9A’s as well as flashed his first 8B+.

”7 sessions over two trips. Got to the last move from start every session. I think every move has to be over 75% success rate in iso to send. Extremely in-style such that I would guess this is objectively harder than Shaolin, but easier for me.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and what went into completing it?
There is a lot of optimization that goes into climbing, obviously. You have to optimize your beta, weather alignment, skin tactics, diet, and much more to climb at your limit or close to it. Burden demanded something different than optimization for me to unlock it - it demanded reorientation. Reorientation towards the boulder, towards climbing, and towards myself. Not trying to be pretentious - this was genuinely the path towards sending for me. I had all the links and moves fairly high percentage within the first session, but every time I got to the last move, I just couldn’t execute properly. I had a lot of difficulty sleeping the night before I sent, and I spent most of this time navigating my mental game, attempting to find a mental space in which I would be comfortable doing the last move. I found it, envisioned it, and when the session came, acted on it.

I had 3 sessions in my first trip and 4 in my second, so 7 total. None of my sessions except for the first and last felt ideal with regard to conditions. First trip the boulder was wet for 2 weeks straight. Second trip the weather hovered around 55-65° the entire time (for such a crimpy boulder, colder temps are ideal). I think thats just the nature of Burden though. Last session was 80% humidity but no wetness, which is ideal for my dry skin.
What about the new drop knee sequence?
New sequence is the same that Simon and all subsequent climbers have used except for Elias. I would guess its half to a grade easier than Nalle’s beta? I think what makes it easier is less the moves themselves and more the fact that you are doing less moves and so have more space for failure which snowballs into a fall. Interestingly, nalle had beta he used before the beta he is known for, where you get a left foot after the first move and reach straight up left to the 3 finger crimp, similar to the dropknee but with a foot squeeze. Ryuchi uses this beta despite being aware of the dropknee beta.

To address the discourse about Nalle’s pull on: I have done the move both ways and it doesn’t make much of a difference. Nalle is a few inches shorter than me so it may be more difficult for him to place both feet when sitting down. We also have different pads, although we do not double stack. Regardless, the beta difference here is fairly small and unimpactful.

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Michaela Kiersch, with over 20 routes 8c+ to 9a+ under her belt, has completed Dolby Surround (9a+) in Zillertal. It took her 20 sessions to unlock the new crux sequence ending with a jump which has been estimated to an 8B+ boulder. The nearby waterfall inspired first ascensionist Kilian Fischhuber to the name of the climb.
Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
This route was bolted in 1998 and in the last 30 years has seen ~ less than 10 ascents with Kilian Fischhuber completing the FA in 2008. The route was graded 8c+/9a until recently, when a crucial hold broke adding an even harder sequence immediately following the old crux. After chatting with some others who have tried the route and mostly leaning on my own experience, 9a+/5.15a feels appropriate. But time will tell and hopefully we see a few more ascents in the next decade haha (Will Bosi you’re next!!)

Dolby Surround is one of the most beautiful routes I’ve ever tried. Striped granite/gneiss at a 45 degree overhang with the Zillertal Alps in the background.

Two months + 1 day and 20 sessions until I found myself clipping the chains!! Longest project yet which was an experience in itself. I’m really proud of my perseverance and that I kept “punching the clock.”

Mikel Linacisoro, who earlier this year did his first 9a+, has onsighted Rollito Sharma Ext.1 (8c) and redpointed Ciudad de dios (9a) in Santa Linya. The 25-year-old made his first headlines when, at age 12, he onsighted 8a+’ and sent 8c’s. Three years later, he did his first 9a. During the same period, he won the Spanish Championships in skiing and climbing several times.

Later, he focused almost exclusively on climbing competitions and got a bronze at the Youth World Championships, and his best World Cup finish was 17th. For the past year and a half, he has been back outdoors, having sent five 9a and harder routes, while also winning the Spanish Cup.

Can you tell us more about those ascents?
I’m really happy to have climbed these two incredible lines, especially to have onsighted Rollito Sharma Ext. It had been one of my lifetime goals to onsight an 8c one day! Hahaha. It was amazing. I climbed without pressure, feeling smooth and fully motivated to send — which is the most important thing when climbing onsight.

On top of that, it was the perfect way to finish the weekend by quickly sending another 9th-grade route, Ciudad de Dios, in just a few attempts. Honestly, over the last few months I’ve been enjoying climbing on rock so much with my friends. That’s my motivation to keep training and improving day by day.

What was the reason for just sending a few hard routes per year until 2024?
Hahaha, I’m a doctor now. I have been studiing so hard my last 6 years, and between comps and studies, bad weather usually on the basque country... I didn’t have so much time to enjoy rocks! 🙈😂

Are you working full time as a Doctor now?
Not now! Im studying to make an exam in January. It’s like an opposition. I want to be Traumatologist and try to treat all the injured climbers 💪🏼🤣

What are your summer competition plan?
I’m doing Prague, Innsbruck, Chamonix.. and maybe some more after summer.

Hyunbin Min, who has previously climbed one 8C+ boulder and one 9b route, has made the first ascent of Prime Time (8C+) in Mt. Morak. The 162 cm-tall 37-year-old won a Lead World Cup back in 2012.

Can you tell us more about the process behind the first ascent?
I honestly don’t even know where to begin with this one. Since last year, I’ve been working on around four different projects, and without a doubt, Prime Time was the hardest of them all. Earlier this year, I was focused on another project (around 8C/V15). From the second session, it felt incredibly possible, but as the sessions went on, I became too obsessed with sending it. I got overly sensitive and emotionally attached to the outcome, and at some point I started disliking that version of myself a little bit.

So I stepped away from it and started a new project — The Blueprint (V14/15, FA by me). I tried to approach it with a lighter mindset, telling myself to let go a little more and just enjoy the process. I ended up sending it in about five or six sessions, and after that I really felt like my body shape and overall climbing condition were in a great place. That’s when I started focusing fully on Prime Time again.

Prime Time is an 18-move line starting from a small roof and continuing through a steep 60 degree overhang. It demands strong fingers, precise core tension, and the ability to trust incredibly small footholds. During my last session, I had a really good link and finally saw the possibility of the send, but the tiny footholds near the top kept shutting me down. Today, I changed one specific beta — instead of using a left heel, I switched to a left-foot edging position on that foothold — and that ended up being the key to finally sending the route.

More importantly, I kept trying to stay mentally relaxed on every attempt. I tried not to climb with desperation or obsession. Honestly, if every try had been only about sending, I might still not have done it today. Without question, this is the hardest route I’ve ever climbed. What felt manageable in link attempts became unbelievably difficult when starting from the ground. Grading is always difficult, but I think this line has already been validated to some extent by Sung-su, myself, and several top-level Korean climbers. What’s also kind of surreal is that, by pure coincidence, today marks exactly one year since I climbed my first V16 — United (8C+/V16) in Japan. I’m just incredibly happy right now. It still doesn’t feel real.

What is next on the agenda?
This autumn and winter, I want to go to Europe and gain even more experience climbing abroad.

Lorenzo Bogliacino, who last year sent three 9a+’, has done Autoengaño (9a), Siempre libres (9a) and Borracho primerizo (9a) in Rodellar.

”So grateful to be back in my happy place! And before the rain came, thanks to the perfect conditions, I was able to start the season in the best possible way, getting back to fighting in my favorite style and climbing some routes I had in my minds since last year...but I hope these are just the beginning of a long journey!”

So what is the next plan for the journey?
Basically all routes in Rodellar🤣 without joking I leave some projects in 9a in El Delfin sector for later and maybe some harder one!

I will be in Rodellar for one week each month or a little more. My girlfriend live and work there so I also have the opportunity to go sometimes for two days!

Ruth Schluga, with six 8b+’ under her belt, has completed Janja (8c) in Falegnameria ”Aesthetic, natural, and incredibly good. This route felt like it was meant for me as my first of the grade.✨” (c) Daniel Rogger

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
Climbing in Falegnameria, this line caught me right away — it just inspired me. My boyfriend told me it was one of the most beautiful routes of the grade — technical, aesthetic, and perfectly my style: no crazy stopper move, but a mix of power‑endurance, precision and thoughtful technical movement. I felt ready to try it and immediately made progress. Over three weekends I fell high up several times — once even on the last move. But I knew I could do it. During my send go I told myself: “The route doesn’t know it’s 8c. Just enjoy the climb and don’t be nervous.” That relaxed mindset made all the difference. I climbed calmly, focused — and suddenly I was at the anchor. My first 8c. Yay!

What is your climbing background?
I started climbing in 2016 at 16 and immediately fell in love with it. In 2019 I climbed my first 8a, which I thought would be my lifetime goal. I never did competitions or had a coach; climbing was always personal for me — solving puzzles on the rock, learning from every attempt. What matters most is the connection to the route. When the mental side is right, my body can go further than I ever imagined.

Zhao Yicheng, who last month set a new Speed World Record of 4.58 seconds in his senior debut, claimed the Speed World Cup title in Wujiang. In the semifinal, he blazed up the slightly overhanging 15-meter 6b+ wall in 4.54 seconds, setting yet another world record. Here’s the 16-year-old’s incredible record-breaking run — and once again, no celebration whatsoever.

Pepa Šindel, with 15 routes 9a and beyond under his belt, has sent Maitre Vauban und der Basilisk (9a) in Höllental. The 18-year-old repeated Chiroptera (9a+) in 2022 which has still not seen a third ascent.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
The first time I tried Maitre Vauban und der Basilisk was last summer. I gave it 3 tries when it was 30°C in the shade, and I hadn’t trained for 2 months, so you can imagine how it went :) But I knew I would return because the line is really beautiful, and I’m surprised it has so few repetitions.

The route is very endurance-based, with 5 boulders and 4 kneebar rests in between. The crux is right below the anchor, after you’ve already climbed 30 meters to get there. It’s a really strange sequence revolving around a small sidepull and getting over the lip with poor high feet, then bumping to 2 small crimps before reaching the final jug.

I did it second go, not remembering any beta from last year, and I also did Versehrtendachl (8c+), but I was too weak and tired to finish the second pitch, which is a 9a.