Belén Villalón sends first 8c at age 37

Belén Villalón, with four 8b+’ under his belt, has completed La gioconda (8c) in Rodellar. ” It came together in a very unexpected way. It was my first time doing the move from the third bolt, and I had only managed the upper section after taking a fall before. Everything just clicked: I got through the lower part as if it were nothing, even though I did the "easy" section feeling really nervous, and then I sent the crux with a foot cut included. It feels so good to send it with those sensations—my heart is full! 😍 Onward!!” (c) Ori Breluru

Can you tell us more about sending your first 8c?
I started trying it a month ago and it fits a lot with my climbing style. It’s on a steep roof and requires a lot of knee technique and body tension. My best friend Marta Palou encouraged me to try it and helped me with all sorts of methods because figuring out these routes is a real puzzle. The route consists of a hard move (for me) on the third bolt, followed by an easier section of climbing until you reach a great knee rest halfway up. From there comes the crux of the route, which is about 15 moves of power endurance of similar intensity until you reach the anchor.

I want to thank everyone who encouraged me that day, especially Ori and Marta for supporting me throughout this whole process.

What is your climbing background?
I’m from Chile, I started climbing there in 2009, and I’ve been living and climbing in Spain since 2018. I’ve been working in Rodellar since 2019, and this is where I spend most of my time climbing. I’m so happy to have climbed my first 8c at this crag that I love so much and that has such great routes everywhere.

What is next?
Now I’d like to try Da Vinci Extension (8c) at El Museo and maybe go to Piscineta, where I have so much to do. There’s still plenty of time left in Rodellar!