Roch Oddo 🦐 has done Unendliche Geschichte 1+2+3 9a in Magic Woods. It is a seven-bolt extension to the boulder Never Ending Story 8B+ and also 8C has been suggested although clipping into a rope. Previously Roch has only done an 8b route as his focus is bouldering, where he has done several 8B's. (c) Samuel Tour

"I started trying this boulder last summer with the intention of only doing part 2, but realising how perfect the line was I immediately started to work on the low start. I did the 8b+ on my second trip (with a really uncommon toe hook beta on the crux). It felt like unfinished business to stop on the rest and the route is the better exit to me. So I started working on endurance and went back once more to finish it. I spent about 6 weeks on it in total and finished it right as my last year of med school is starting, which will represent a huge switch from the climbing focused lifestyle I could live till now. All in all, it just comes as a perfect ending to a really nice chapter of my life"

How was it to tackle the this endurance challenge?
It is really hard to get into it, but once you learn to enjoy the pump it's actually not that bad. I would advice every bouldering specialist to at least give it one serious training cycle, it is an acquired taste for sure. I did have some trouble going back into bouldering mode for the first part again, if I could start again I would have kept a little more max strenght into my regime. The training worked wonders tho, I went to the top the first time I got to the rest (after failing twice 2 moves into the route completly pumped on the previous trip). I think the right balance between burly bouldering strenght and a minimal level of endurance is one of the big challenge on this one.

Gianluca Vighetti, who previously in 2021 has done 12 onsights 8a and harder, has become the first-ever 12-year-old to have done a 9a, TCT in Gravere. Stefano Ghisolfi did the FA in 2014 (at age 21), calling it his hardest route ever. " I want to dedicate this route to Tito Traversa (that's why I called TCT), because I want everybody will remember him forever. The start is in common with his last hard realization Pablo Diretta 8b+, he was impressive on it. Thanks to Valter Vighetti for suggesting to try this route."

Interestingly, Gianluca has previously explained where he learnt to speak English. "Watching climbing videos on YouTube. My favourite climbing Channel is Stefano Ghisolfi, his English is very good."

"TCT is a link of L’extremacura 8c and Base jump 8b+ with a partial rest in between. After I made Extrema cura plus 8c+, I tried Base jump 8b+, the second part of TCT. Immediately I thought that it wasn’t exactly my route because it’s short, bouldery and full of huge moves. When I sent it I immediately tried the 9a by doing two tries, but I fell on the 8c. For around 10 tries I always fell after the rest before the 8b+, because I wasn’t able to rest correctly. Then July came and it was too hot, so I left the project for two months.

I went to Arco and to La Saume on holiday and after all this, I came back to try the route. The first try after I came back, I fell in the last crux, a huge move between a two finger pocket and a good crimp. The day after I fell in the last move to a jug on the edge. After doing two days of rest, today I finally made it."

It should be mentioned that 12-year-old Andrea Chelleris did Puro Dreaming this summer but based on down grading suggestions, it should be considered 8c+/9a now.

"February 5th was the last day we heard from Juan Pablo Mohr and it was exactly that same day, that we knew that as soon as summer arrived, we would be there to fulfil one of his last dreams : Climbing for a Reason in Pakistan.

The fact that Jp did not physically return from the mountain is no excuse for not spiritually realizing the project he had in mind with Chilean climber Lucho Birkner, which they were already planning together from base camp with the help of Pakistani Ali Sadpara and Italian Tamara Lunger, who would later join this tribute and legacy by being the only one to descend the mountain alive.

The mission was clear, to turn Muslim women into climbers of their own rocks. Having the opportunity to give a tool like this to girls who practically live in a culture where women are forbidden or limited to perform a myriad of activities, gave us the strength to give our all.

This is how certain objectives were achieved:
-19 new sport climbing routes and the creation of the first sector in the region.
-1 reclining artificial wall with 500 holds and volumes.
-Safety workshops (girls who already know how to point a route, tie knots and climb safely).
-Basic and technical equipment donated for the next 7 years.
-In the process the creation of the first sport climbing club in the Shigar Valley.

Watching these girls climb for the first time in their lives on their new climbing wall and on their own rocks and seeing them feel like they were punching up a history of repressed women was amazing. They where in love so quick of climbing. It's really amazing when you hear a mother of them say:

"We wait a lifetime for an opportunity like this, where our little girls have a chance to grow up and be free in something that they are passionate about, that they can aspire to something, it's something that sets a new precedent for our girls and more here in Pakistan that after the birth of a baby, the woman in Pakistan has two choices: she makes herself miserable or between all of us we make her strong.“

As an organization, we have seen once again how climbing is a gigantic agent of change for children who live in life situations often lacking opportunities. Remember that Climbing for a Reason is a non-profit organization that at least once a year travels to different destinations around the world in order to turn local people into climbers on their own rocks. You can still keep helping... all proceeds go directly to the project and future of Shigar Valley:" Go Get Funding - Climbing for a reason

Climbing has published an article on how to belay. In the picture, the belayer is connected to the ground which is a good piece of advice when the climber is more than 30% heavier than the belayer. The downside of being anchored to the ground is that the fall will be rather static, which especially should be avoided on trad climbing. Sure there might be some weight difference in the picture but normally grown-up males do not need to anchor themselves to the ground.

Personally, I would have taken my stance two meters to the left and possibly lifted my leg up on the first shelf there. Leaning a bit backwards with one foot against the rock is my best recommendation when it comes to situations with small weight differences. This would also have meant that the risk of getting the rope in between the legs would have been reduced for the climber in the picture, had he taken a fall. A further downside of being anchored to the ground is that you can not move in case of rockfall.

A middle way option is to connect the petit climber to a bag filled with 10 kg of rocks or similar. If you anyhow must attach yourself to the ground you should clip into the anchor with quickdraws so you can easily get rid off it.

I must also mention that in the article it says "the belayer could find somewhere comfortable to sit". This is, I am afraid, totally wrong. A belayer should never be recommended to sit down! It is also strange that in the first picture, the belayer does not use a helmet. If we were to give advice for any gym rat going out, the use of a helmet is much more important than anchoring the belayer to the ground.

1. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 319 - Janja Garnbret SLO 300
2. Sean Bailay USA 277 - Natalia Grossman USA 296
3. Masahiro Higuchi JPN 266 - Laura Rogora ITA 278
4. Luca Potocar SLO 212 - Vita Lukan SLO 269
5. Sasha Lehmann SUI 204 - Lucka Rakovec SLO 185
6. Martin Stranik CZE 195 - Aleksandra Totkova BUL 169

National Team Ranking
1. Slovenia 1 244
2. Japan 1 041
3. USA 906
4. Italy 797
5. France 594
6. Germany 547
Complete results (c) Sara Grippo

Michaela Kiersch reports on Insta with a great picture by Boone Speed that she has done the first female ascent of Super Tweak 8c in Logan Canyon, Video.

How do you balance your climbing with your OT doctoral studies in hand therapy?
It’s challenging to find the balance. My climbing has definitely suffered since starting my doctorate but I’ve learned to be more patient with myself and make time when I can. The amount of climbing and training I can do every week varies depending on my school work. Some weeks I hardly climb at all, especially during exams. But sometimes I can prioritize climbing in between classes and assignments. I’m on a 2-week break right now, so it’s been nice to climb more often.

When did you start your doctoral studies, when will you finish and does it relate to climbing?
It’s been over 2 years and I’ll graduate at the end of April. Yes, I hope to work with climbers!

Masahiro Higuchi was last out and there were three guys tied on 31+. Actually, Luka Potocar, Sebastian Halenke or Domen Skofic were close to getting to hold 32. The Japanese was in cruise control, easily grabbing hold 32 and continued five more holds. His previous best of his 11 years long World Cup career was #3 in Kranj in 2018. With the victory, he moved to #3 overall after Stefano Ghisolfi and Sean Bailey. Complete results

Janja Garnbret put on an amazing show once again doing some spectacular moves to secure the victory in both Kranj as well as overall. Actually, it was the interviewer who told her that she won overall and she was totally unaware of it. Chaehyon Seo from Korea was second meaning that still her worst result out of all her seven World Cups is bronze.

Big sensations in the Kranj male semifinal as the Top-3 in the overall ranking did not make the final. Stefano Ghisolfi was #12 and secured the overall title as Sean Bailey was #15. Sascha Lehmann, who was #3 overall, was #26. The winner of the semifinal was Masahiro Higuchi from Japan. Complete results

Among the female, all the big names made it to the final and Janja Garnbret got three moves higher than Laura Rogora, who got six moves higher than Vita Lukan. Complete results

Siebe Vanhee has repeated Dave Macleod's Project Fear in the Dolomites. Spectacularly, he actually linked all three roof pitches together into one long 50m pitch, going straight through the great roof. Originally the grades of the three pitches were 7b+, 8a+ and 8c but the 29-year-old's personal grade are 7b+, 8a and 8b. His overall grade of his new FA is 8b+ or 8c. (c) Klaas Willems

"The great roof of Cima Ovest in Tre Cime (Dolomites) is just breathtaking! The mythical Huber routes Bellavista and Panaroma made me dream of climbing that roof for years. Last week Pete Lowe came over to the Dolomites and instead of jumping on the classics we chose the more recent variation Project Fear, opened by Dave MacLeod in 2014. Dave linked the Bauer Route, an old aid line into the crux pitch of Panaroma (8c) by adding a 6c, 7b+ and 8a+. Great vision, because the line goes pretty much straight through the right part of the roof. Together with Pete we worked the crux pitches for two days. The day before we wanted to give it a send, Pete made the tough decision not to join me because of an old and severe climbing injury that had been bothering him again. We were both disappointed but it was the smartest decision to take. Nonetheless, Pete was excited for me to try and send Project Fear, but not in the normal way! He came up with the idea of linking all the pitches that go through the roof in one monster 50m pitch. This means linking Dave MacLeod’s 7b+, 8a+ and the 8c crux pitch of Panorama all into one!

With Pete’s vision and the support of local Dolomite climber Nico Cad we took off at 8am last Sunday. It was freezing cold and clouds where visible in a distance, adding to the spice of the route. Once at the base of the roof, at the start of the 7b+, I racked up with long slings aiming for the link-up. Linking the 7b+ into the 8a+ felt good, at the start of the 8c is a great rest where I could recover fairly well. I continued and got into the first crux where my foot came off. I had super cold feet and was probably too nervous. I returned to the anchor, rested 15 minutes and took off again. This time I felt warmed up, had warm feet and believed I could do it! I got past the first crux and entered the second crux pretty solid. Going to the final jug over the lip I suddenly lost my grip in the last pocket and came off! Unbelievable, I had it, I was so close! Devastated I returned to the anchor again where I rested another hour before taking off on what would probably be my last try. Italian Nico was the best support ever, he waited patiently in the cold. I was convinced I could do it, I still had some energy in my arms. For the third time I was hanging on the rest before the 8c part, looking up to the two roof cruxes. I recovered completely and took off. Arriving at the lip of the roof I gave it all and this time stuck the final jug over the roof! I let out screams of joy that where answered by my crazy Italian belayer and a big audience at a small hut below Cima Ovest. Three hours and a bit of snowfall later we stood on top of the Cima Ovest!

Also about this climb I would like to express my opinion on the grade, definitely having done the big link up. Macleod’s 8a+ felt more like 8a and the 8c of Panorama more like 8b. I don’t want to underestimate the work and impressive first ascents of both MacLeod and the Huber brothers. I can understand how intimidating a first ascent in this roof on this kind of rock might be back in the day! Thank you all for the work and imagination. With the new grading of the separate pitches I would consider the grade 8b+ or 8c for the link up of the 7b+, 8a and 8b. Let’s wait a second ascent to give this a final grading.

What an amazing experience climbing through such a huge roof and topping out in this magical place! Thanks Pete for the great days trying the route and your vision of linking all the pitches, you got all the credit for it! Thanks to Nico for keeping motivation high despite the cold. Big thanks to Ariana for searching a partner for me so last minute!

Last but not least, thanks to Klaas for the images on our second day on the wall when we tried every pitch individually. Too bad we don’t have any images of the link-up. But at least it gives a good idea of the exposure."