Lucija Tarkuš, who placed 8 to 28 in all her seven Boulder and Lead World Cups this season, has the last two weeks sent one 8A Boulder and three 8c’s, out of which two in one day. Now the goal for the 22-year-old Slovenian is to send Martin Krpan (9a).

Can you tell us more about your roctober sends?
So after comp season, I was really looking forward to rock season, but at the start it was hard to get out there, so I only had two climbing days. On one, I quickly did Strelovod (8c) and on the other I had a boulder session where I finally got to try some local boulders. I was happy that I could quickly do my second-ever 8A boulder.

This week I can finally spend more days at the crag. First, I finished one of my old projects, Kaj ti je deklica 8b+, which went pretty easily. Then I started working on Konec mira (8c), which definitely felt the hardest and needed the most tries, around 10, but I’m glad I sent it. Now maybe I can do the connection into it, and if all goes well, it could be my first 9a (Martin Krpan). After sending Konec Mira, I was really surprised with how quickly I did Corrida (8c), it was the first time I’ve ever sent two 8c’s in one day. Hopefully the weather stays good 🤞

Janja Garnbret reports on Instagram that she has sent L'oppio dei climbers (8B+) and Il trono (8B) in Val Daone. The latter she, ”gave it a good flash go, didn’t work out but sent it second go.”

At 26, the Slovenian climber is widely regarded as the greatest female competition climber in history. Now, she has also proven her dominance on rock—across routes, boulders, and even onsight ascents—despite spending the past decade almost entirely focused on competitions. The question that remains is when, not if, she will measure herself against the best men in the sport.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo, with over 80 routes 9a to 9b+ under his belt, has done La real tierra de nadie (9a) in Juncosa. ”One session but after climb the right outside last year. With wet holds :/.

The following day he climbed Tierra Negra (9a) in Margalef. ” One of the best lines in Margalef. Close to send in a day, finally took me two days. 9a/+ but could be 9a+.” (c) Tim Emmett

Luca Bana, with three 9a+’ under his belt, has made the first ascent of The Master (9a+) in Cornalba. ”9a+/b Yess! The day I'd been waiting for quite some time has finally arrived! Bolted it back in November 2023, when I was looking for a new challenge on the magical ledge, I’d been dreaming of this line ever since. A journey of up and downs, falling with numb fingertips in the freezing wind, facing tough conditions and struggling to find the right day. An intense vertical chapter lasted two seasons. I'm glad it's finally done! Thank you to everyone who believed in me and shared this beautiful journey along the way.” (c) Nabil Rossi

”Clear skies and crisp air: conditions look perfect. After a solid first go, I find myself back on the ground, looking up once more. I’m satisfied with matching my previous high point, but I know it's still not enough if I want to have a chance.

Two full hours of rest, temps are way colder but I'm ready to try again. This time, I climb smoothly through all the hard middle section, breathing on almost every move. Short, sharp shakes — and I launch into the upper crux. 

From below, someone shouts “Come on, you’ve got it!” — as I stick the hold I’d never reached before. Almost in disbelief, I keep going, aware the route isn't over yet. My forearms are about to give out on the very last moves, but the tiny spark of energy left in me is just enough to grab the top hold and clip the chains — the same ones I placed back in November 2023 when, looking for my next challenge, I bolted the route.

For sure, it's my most difficult ascent to date — 9a+ hard is what it felt like to me, hence the slash grade. But let's see what others will say! Sooner or later I'll be back for the longer and slightly harder version starting from Goldrake.”

Jules Marchaland, who since August has done his four first 8C’s, including one flash, has sent Solar Plexus (8C) in Valle Bavona. ”Tried one day some months ago. Went quickly today. Super sick. First Time I was « campus for sure » and today I used the foot without any doubt with the solution comp it’s game changer.”

Today, he also flashed an 8A and Ganymede Takeover (8A+), putting him at the top of this year’s flash ranking game.

Formerly focused mainly on routes and competitions, the 24-year-old has in 2025 completed eleven climbs graded between 9a and 9b. In other words, only a handful of climbers can boast such an outstanding combined ticklist this year.

Jonathan Siegrist, with close to 100 routes 9a and beyond to his name, has done the first ascent of Eazy Street (9a+) in Mt. Charleston. The link up is around 30 meters and the breakdown is 7C+, 8c and 7C+. (c) Ryan White

The line of strength in the Compton Cave. An awesome fight on the send, battling all the way until clipping the anchor! Started on Legend (8b+) climbed through my new traverse into the end of Express Yourself (9a). It was so fun to piece this thing together.”

Eva Hammelmüller, who has held the number one spot in the VL ranking game for a year, has kept her momentum rolling over the past two weekends, sending two 8c+’s and two 8c’s. (c) Felix Mast
Love 2.1 (8c+) in Zillertal: ”This is the line of the valley, sooo good!!! Took me two days to send it, simply amazing.”

Reality Check (8c+) in Schleierwasserfall: ”OMG why didn't I climb more at Schleier in the past years? This place is incredibly beautiful, and I can't wait to discover more amazing lines like this one!! You better like 3mm crimps, though... ;)”

Can you tell us more about your first weekend ascents?
This weekend was just incredible! After a few really promising (but unsuccessful) attempts in my project, I managed climb a cool 8b+ at Götterwandl. The next day, we went to Zillertal to try a route I checked out two weeks ago. I not only climbed the 8c part it on my first send go, but as well decided to downclimb the last few quickdraws to try the direct exit. I ‘stole’ the idea from a local climber who sent it in exactly this style nearly two decades ago ;). However, I underestimated how pumpy downclimbing the short but steep roof would be; in addition, you don’t reach the nearly no-hand-rest again that you’d usually have after the first hard part of the 8c+. I honestly didn’t consider actually sending the route in that go, but somehow I managed to stay on the wall! Couldn’t believe it!! Climbing another 8c at Schleierwasserfall the next day was the icing on the cake.

Eva’s send train continued the next weekend in Schleierwasserfall.

Gambit (8c+): ”What a line!!! I love this style of climbing (endurance on pockets in perfect rock - can it get any better?!), and I love this location. Climbing with the waterfall behind your back truly is something special! On my first send go yesterday, I surprisingly made it to the last hard move. However, I didn't figure out a suitable beta and fell 2 more times up there... Finally, I had the foothold dialed, and I sent it today on my warm up go!!! - I guess I was still pumped enough from yesterday :D”

Least Resistance (8c): ”How did that work out?????? Still can't believe that I made it through the crux with completely frozen fingers, some improvisations, and even a footslip. Didn't climb the upper part perfectly, but luckily well enough - thanks Robs for reminding me of the beta up there! Crazy day.”

Can you tell us more about the second weekend’s ascents?
I love the style of climbing at Schleierwasserfall (endurance on pockets in perfect rock - can it get any better?!), and I love the location. Climbing with the waterfall behind your back truly is something special! On my first send go in ‘Gambit’, I surprisingly made it to the last hard move. However, I didn't figure out a suitable beta and fell 2 more times up there... Finally, I had the foothold dialed, and I sent it the day after on my warm up go!!! - I guess I was still pumped enough from the tries the day before :D.

While the send of ‘Gambit‘ felt solid, I had the craziest fight in ‘Resistance’. Not expecting to climb all the way to the top in my second go, I battled completely numb fingers, memory gaps, and waterfall showers. Winning this fight felt surreal!

Alex Ventajas, with some 20 routes 9a and beyond under his belt, has done Trip tik tonik (9a). ”So thrilled to send this super line in just 2 days of attempts! Thanks to Alessio and Claudia for all the betas that helped me achieve it so fast! Totally my style, tricky kneebars and after the blouder a nice endurance run till the anchor!”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I’d been curious about this sector for a few years already. I’d seen lots of videos of “Trip tik tonik” and it always looked so aesthetic. This week I was on holiday in Rodellar, but I felt the need to “change the air” a bit and visit a new place. It seemed like the perfect chance to start heading back toward Italy and make a stop here.

I knew I wanted to try this line, so I focused on it immediately! I only had three climbing days left, so I knew it was going to be a good challenge. Luckily, I met Claudia Ghisolfi and Alessio Voghera there, who had both recently sent the route, and they shared their betas with me. That definitely helped me cut down on the number of attempts!

The route really suits my style: the first part is quite technical, with some knee-bars, and the upper section after the boulder is a masterpiece of endurance. Already on my second go I fell at the crux, which gave me the chance to refine the boulder sequence and consolidate the upper part.

On the second day, I knew that if I could just get through the crux, I’d have a good shot at clipping the chains. I kept falling there, but each time a little bit higher, getting down after every fall to save energy.

I waited for the last light of the day to rest properly and give it one final go: this time I finally stuck the boulder and reached a small saving kneebar! Despite the fatigue of the long day, I suddenly felt full of energy and kept going, enjoying the long ride on the tufas all the way to the top!

I’m super happy to have sent the route in just two days and to have stayed motivated even when the boulder was shutting me down at first. I would have loved to try the original beta from before the key hold broke (it looked so unique!), but the new sequence is still cool!

Janja Garnbret, who flashed Puro Dreaming (9a), last week reports on Instagram. ”Quick work of Rude (8B+)” in Val Daone.

The 26-year-old has dominated the comp scene for ten years and last year she sent Bügeleisen Sit (8C).

Jennifer Wood has completed Pixam (8c) in Kalymnos. This was the fourth 8c since July for the 29-year-old who finished competing in 2023.

Can you tell us more about the send and your kneepad thinking?
I tried Pixam at the end of my last trip in May and surprised myself by actually getting really close. First go this trip I couldn’t believe how much easier the moves felt so confidently set off on Redpoint. Got a bit shut down aha, the humidity was tough and I was faffing with a tricky clip and I was powering out.

A couple of days later and I’d lost my initial optimism but stuck with it, but everything went wrong on the send go aha. I fumbled a clip about 6 times, ripped a massive flapper in my tip but just dug deep on the crux and somehow pulled it off. After a reasonable rest the top wall is an amazing bit of climbing, maybe 8a+ ish so felt great to hold it together :) “

I actually did wear a knee pad in the end! Was a bit stubborn last trip because I don’t like climbing in them, but this season plus time with the experts in Hvar has helped me get to grips with them 😂

How can you best explain your continuous great progress the last few years?
I think the main reason I’ve been able to improve quite a lot this year is just spending sooo much more time on rock ! Comps are not so good for that 😅 I feel like I’ve been learning a lot technically as well as just getting better at projecting tactics. Oh and I have rest days on trips now , annoyingly that helps a lot too 😉