Alex Puccio reports on Insta with a video that she has done Hailstorm 8B (+) in Ogden and it was basically on her first session. In total, the 31-yar-old has now done almost 250 boulders 8A and harder which is most in the world among the females.

"We went up to the boulder the day before and I only tried the first few moves of the stand start “Firestorm” for a very short time because the entire top of the boulder was wet from the snow melting on the top. Maybe we climbed for like 30 min or so before the water came all the way down the boulder onto the lower holds. So we left.

We went back the next day and I was able to send the stand really quickly and then Michaela sent the sit. I didn’t have any intentions of really trying the sit but with some encouragement from them, I got on it, at least to see how some of the moves felt. I thought maybe I can come back to it. After a little work on it, and all of Michaela’s beta, I found myself climbing into the stand which already knew the moves and then climbed it to the top. For grading it, looks like some think V14 and some think V13, I honestly don’t know. Michaela sprayed me down with all her beta that she had to figure out for herself and it suited me really well!"

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Carlo Traversi has done Magic Line (8c+) in Yosemite (CA). Ron Kauk did the "pinkpoint" (gear preplaced) FA in 1996, suggesting 8c. The first repeat was done by his son Lonnie in 2016. Two years later, he did the clean FA placing the gear on lead and upgrading it to 8c+. There are only three other 8c+ trad routes (excluding some contrived ones) in the world and a potential 9a (Tribe). With Meltdown, Traversi is the only one having done two. He has also done several 8C boulders and last year he repeated his first 9b.

Can you tell us a little bit about the process of taking down Magic Line?
It took some days to get beta and gear sorted. Fell once at the top, rested a week, then went back and climbed it. It was about 6 sessions this year, although I’d tried it some days in 2017 and a few days over the past few years.

What about the protection? Is it totally safe?
It’s pretty safe as far as hard trad goes. I never pulled a piece and never got close to hitting the ground.

What is next?
Headed to Switzerland next week to rage on the blocs.

Which discipline do you like the most?
I just love rock climbing in all its forms. Each discipline is special in its own way. Bouldering is the purest fun. Haven’t done much DWS. I’ve done a ton of multi-pitch climbing but haven’t really pushed my limit there. Definitely planning a Mallorca (DWS) trip for this year.

How do you keep warm during cold conditions?
To warm my hands up I would usually grab a nearby piece of rock on the ground until my hands started to go numb and then let go and the blood would slowly start flowing in. Then I would jump on the climb. I think it’s called “cold induced vasodilation”. Usually, once I do this my hands stay warm for a long time.

Michaela Kirsch, who did her first 9a last autumn, reports on Insta that she has done two 8A+; Power slave and Hungry Hungry Hippos, as well as her hardest yet, Hailstorm 8B (+) in Ogden. Previously, the doctorate in hand therapy has done at least a handful of 8A+ and harder as well as some eight 8c+ routes over the years. (c) Alex Puccio

"I had previously done the stand start a couple years ago and decided to try Hailstorm, which is the lower start. I was there when Drew Ruana completed the FA and was inspired to return. I spent nearly 15+ sessions trying the stand and low start moves. It’s exciting to see progress in my bouldering and it’s not often that I’m able to break through into another grade so I’m feeling proud!"

How much have you been able to climb/train lately?
I’m finishing the last portion of my doctorate and have a little more flexibility with my climbing, although I’ve been focusing on sport climbing more! About 3-5 times every week. I’ve also been going on a few shorter trips, Red Rock included.

When will you graduate and what is your plan after that?
It’s finished in April and then I’m going to Europe! Only focusing on climbing for the near future.

IFSC has made an official statement that goes in line with the IOC recommendations.

- To suspend all IFSC competitions scheduled to be held in Russia and Belarus until further notice, including the IFSC Boulder and Speed World Cup in Moscow (RUS), the IFSC Youth European Cup in Kaliningrad (RUS) – in accordance with IFSC Europe – and the 2023 IFSC Youth World Championships;
- To suspend all Russian and Belarusian athletes and team officials from IFSC competitions; and
- To nominate replacements for all the Russian and Belarusian IFSC Officials appointed to competitions in 2022.

IFSC also states that they will discuss further additional series of measures during the General Assembly on March 18-19/3, also including how they can assist the Ukraine climbing community.

Adam Ondra has made the FA of Bomba (9b) in Arco. He bolted it ten years ago and it is located just to the right of Trofeo dell'Adriatico 9a+ which Stefano Ghisolfi and Adam Ondra just did. "One of the most epic moments of my climbing! Very unexpected. I thought it would be 9b+, but unfortunately after only few days of work it cannot be 9b+. Very bouldery, very reachy and very crimpy. Love it! Definitely upper end of 9b in my opinion."

Video and more comments on his Insta. In total, the 29-year-old has now done 25 routes 9b to 9c, which is essentially 60 % of those that exist. The runner up on the 9b list is Stefano Ghisolfi with 10.

Domen Škofic has done La novena enmienda (9a+) in Santa Linya. The Slovenian is one of the best male Lead competition climbers in history. In 2016 he won overall and, in total, he has made the podium 15 times. Outdoors, the 27-year-old has done 20 routes 9a to 9b.

Tell us about the process?
I basically needed 4 tries. As soon as I sent La Novena Puerta I did the extension as well. I decided to get on this route because I wanted to do something new. I needed a break from Stoking the Fire and Catxasa to heal my skin on specific parts of my fingers… and it’s nice to create some sending momentum :)

How long are you staying and what is next?
I’m staying for the whole of March if the weather is nice. I enjoy climbing in the cave and I will try to do as many routes as possible besides my main projects.

Nico Pelorson, Insta, and Rob Denayer, Insta have done Le Pied à Coulisse which was put up by Guillaume Mondet in 2016 as the first 8C+ in Fontainebleau but it has later been downgraded. Pelorson is famous for having repeated and suggested personal downgradings of two original 9A's; Soudain Seul and No Kpote Only.

Denayer, on the other hand, has been more under the radar since 2017, when he was #2 in a Euro Youth Cup but stopped competing. Previously, the Belgian has done a handful of 8C's including The Big Island as well as a dozen 8B+.

What is your climbing background?
I've been climbing since 2008. My first trip to Font was in 2010 and I have been coming back every year as much as I can :) I tried competitions between 2010 and 2017 but always loved outdoor bouldering more so I decided to quit and only go outdoors.

Do you also confirm the downgrade of Le Pied... to 8C?
I think so...it suits me pretty well because it's a bit longer with a technical crux at the end...for sure not 8C+, I have no idea yet what that level feels like. Felt similar for me in difficulty as The Big Island.