NEWS

Event Horizon 9b FA by Jonathan Siegrist
Jonathan Siegrist has done the FA of Event Horizon (9b) in 5G. The 36-year-old did his first 9b in 2018 and this was his fourth. In total, he has now done 64 routes 9a and harder and as a matter of a fact, his last year is his best with ten such graded climbs. (c) Katy Dannenberg

"The direct finish to Nu World (9a+) that I've dreamt about for years! After coming back from Spain I starting working hard on this, training for it, and deciphering the intricate beta in the upper two thirds. I was really unsure if I'd have a good shot before leaving town again but in some of the best shape of my life, with a huge and memorable fight in the second half, I climbed it! Very resistant long boulder problem to start, next is a fins style vertical crux, and finally seven bolts of all-out-pumpy and technical climbing with no good rest to the finish. I used one right knee to clip the second bolt. Without question, for my height, and my methods, this route is one of my absolute hardest. It was a total joy to learn this route and climb it. Grateful!"

What are your summer plans? Now Iโ€™m in Ceuse! Itโ€™s so amazing to revisit this place. No plans for routes. Just want to try hard and enjoy.

The Left Hand of Darkness 8A+ by Michaela Kiersch
Michaela Kiersch, who the last two weeks has done three boulders 8B or 8B+, reports on Insta that she has done The left hand of darkness (8A+) in Magic Wood. (c) Stefan Kuerzi

Austria got four medals in the European Lead Youth Cup in Imst and no other country got more than two podiums including the winners, see below. Sara Copar won over Alessia Mabboni by six seconds to hold 60 as they had identical results in the qualifications.

03: Hannes van Duysen BEL - Liv Egli SUI
05: Timo Uznik AUT - Sara Copar SLO
07: Luca Nรผndel GER - Meije Lerondel FRA

Grossman and Ogata superior after four events
1. Natalia Grossman USA 3 805 - Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 3 300
2. Brooke Raboutou USA 2 485 - Kokoro Fujii JPN 2 445
3. Oriane Bertone FRA 2 285 - Mejdi Schalck FRA 2 282
4. Miho Nonaka JPN 1 978 - Tomoa Narasaki JPN 2 260 (3)
5. Stasa Gejo SRB 1 845 - Paul Jenft FRA 1 690
6. Futaba Ito JPN 1 775 - Anze Peharc SLO 1 445
Complete results

Above are the rankings after the four first events during 2022. There are three more World Cups left and the next one will take place in Brixen in Italy 10-12/6. Overall, the rankings will be decided by the six best results. It should be noted that Tomoa Narasaki has just done three events as he got Covid. He reported on Insta "Everything is going not well and Iโ€˜m faced difficulties. I still donโ€™t recover from fever and still not sure my back way to Japan." (c) Daniel Gajda/IFSC

Grossman gets 3rd consecutive gold and Ogata wins in SLC
Natalia Grossman from the USA was the female topping all four boulders in the Boulder World Cup in Salt Lake City. This was the third consecutive gold for the 20-year-old who started the season by being #2 after Janja Garnbret in Meiringen. During the last eight Boulder WCs, she has been Top-2 including winning the World Championship last year.

"I had no idea what to expect coming into this weekend, I wanted to make another back-to-back happen, but I wasnโ€™t sure," she commented to IFSC. "There were so many points I wanted to give up in this round, I thought it was over after the first boulder, and it was hard to stay positive, but I made it.โ€ Complete female results. (c) Daniel Gajda/IFSC

Among the male, both Yoshiyuki Ogata from Japan and Anze Peharc from Slovenia did all four boulders in five attempts with Ogata winning by countback, using one less try doing all four boulders in the semi. Ogata has made the podium in all four events in 2022. Japan continues their superiority and had three males Top-5 and seven among Top-21. Complete male results

1. Natalia Grossman USA 44 - Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 44 (5)
2. Miho Nonaka JPN 34 (5) - Anze Peharc SLO 44 (5)
3. Brooke Raboutou USA 34 (6) - Kokoro Fujii JPN 44 (9)
4. Futaba Ito JPN 34 (9) - Jongwon Chon KOR 34 (5)
5. Chaehyun Seo KOR 24 (2) - Rei Kawamata JPN 34
6. Ayala Kerem ISR 24 (3) - Ross Fulkerson USA 23

Ayala Kerem from Israel won the female semifinal in the Bouldering World Cup in Salt Lake City, doing all four boulders in eight attempts. Last weekend the 20-year-old was #21 and in Meiringen she was #16. Female results

The male division was won by Kokoro Fujii from Japan topping the four boulders in seven tries. He is four overall after three events but he will advance to at least #2 as Tomoa Narasaki did not participate and Mejdi Schalck was #21. Male results - How to watch the finals

Hyper Finale 9a+ by Dylan Chuat
Dylan Chuat has done the first repeat of Adam Ondra's Hyper Finale (9a+) in Rawyl from 2016. Previously the 21-year-old has done nine 9a's including Super Finale. Dylan needed five sessions to do Super Finale and then two more to send his first 9a+.

"You climb all the hard parts of Super Finale 9a and then exit to the right through two hard cruxes. First, some crimps which end with a risk-taking dyno into a jug. After that, you have another big boulder crux, on super small holds which some climbers have said is like an 8B boulder! I found a significantly different method but it is still no less than an 8A+ boulder." (c) Rรฉmi Degenne

Afra Hรถnig from Germany needed only six attempts to top out all five boulders in the Salt Lake City second Boulder World Cup in 2022. In the second group, Miho Nonaka from Japan won doing all five boulders in eleven tries. In total, nine girls topped out all five boulders. Among the male, Keita Dohi from Japan and Dohyun Lee from Korea won their respective group topping out all five boulders as also seven more males did. Five from Japan made it to the semifinal although Tomoa Narasaki did not participate. Female results and Male results

New Base Line 8B+ by Michaela Kiersch
Michaela Kiersch reports on Insta that she has done her first 8B+, New Base Line in Magic Woods, in just four sessions. During the last month she has previously sent one 8c+, graduated as a Doctor in hand therapy, been on Petzl Roc trip for two weeks and sent two 8B's. (c) Nina Williams

How can you explain peaking in your climbing right now?
Iโ€™ve always had a lot of support for my climbing. Community, friends, and family have been the foundation of my climbing for years. I climb my best when I am happy, and I feel that Iโ€™m at a time in my life where everything has fallen into place. Finishing graduate school is one of my greatest accomplishments to date. I think it gave me confidence and momentum that has carried into my recent projects.

I havenโ€™t changed much of my training routine other than having a little more time than before. I think it can be intimidating to try hard boulders. Maybe the difference is that now Iโ€™m up to the challenge and have been putting time into figuring out my limits within bouldering.