NEWS

Empath 9a (+) on trad by Connor Herson (18)
Connor Herson, who did an 8c+ 2nd go at age 14 and one year later The Nose 8b+ in Yosemite, reports on Insta that has done Empath 9a (+) in Tahoe on trad gear. The stunning slightly overhung 20 m line on granite tufas and slopers was put up by Carlo Traversi, one of the most accomplished trad climbers in the world, and has been repeated and confirmed several times as a 9a+ bolted route. (c) Christian Adams

Later Ethan Pringle repeated it using jammies, aka sticky rubber gloves, and said that for him, and also due to his height, he thought it was more of a solid 9a. In this case, the grade is rather important as previously in the trad game, 8c+ is the previously hardest climbed beside Jacopo Larchers's Tribe which he did not grade but made comments indicating it should be at least 9a.

Connor sent Empath using the bolts last year on his fifth session. Later he has sent three more 9a's and in his three Youth World Championships, he has always been Top-16.

Euclase 8C+ by Dave Graham (40)
David Graham reports on Insta that he has done the FA of Euclase 8C+ in Ticino. "With 19 hand movements, 21 foot moves, and 4 kneebars, its a game of connecting body positions. Itโ€™s one of the most technical climbs I have ever encountered and challenged my ability to toe-hook, heel-hook, knee-bar, and footwork like, unlike any other boulder that Iโ€™ve tried in my life. The top-out adds a crimpy and dangerous no-fall-zone to the equation, completing the line with a real mental factor."

The 40-year-old has previously the last six months done five 8C's and actually he is peaking right now although being one of the leading rock climbers since 1999. Two months ago, we asked him, How can you still progress after 20+ years as a pro climber?
I feel stronger honestly! ๐Ÿ˜…๐Ÿ˜…๐Ÿ˜…, ๐Ÿค”๐Ÿค”๐Ÿค”. Not sure why?? Maybe smarter??? Healthier lifestyle. Ah just eating better, no partying, lots of good rest!! Better attitude about climbing, more patient and also less concerned with conditions. Always finding new solutions, not getting angry. In the past, I would get much more frustrated when I would fail or not do well. These days I think I'm so used to failing that I'm surprised when I succeed. I do boulders that are really my antistyle too. So I assume they should be hard but I think it really helped my mental game, to push longer and harder. Never get pissed, it is not wise!!! I am feeling strong!! But four months of trying hard has been tough, I took the last two weeks kind of easy as the weather was finally bad ๐Ÿ˜…๐Ÿคฃ

Brooke Raboutou, #5 in the Tokyo Olympics, has done Evil Backwards (8B) in . โ€Came here 5 years ago and watched Puccio send, thought it was too big for me but really just wasnโ€™t strong enough lol! First go from the bottom :) fun crew, wonderful evening!โ€

In total, the 21-year-old has now done 15 boulders 8B or harder. In the 2022 World Cup she is currently #3 although having skipped the last event in Brixen. Coming up 22/6 is the Combined World Cup in Innsbruck followed by Lead in Vilars and Chamonix and possibly also Briancon 22/7.

Philipp GaรŸner has done Fonax (8c+) and in Nassereith. โ€I am happy to have climbed Hades which is a great endurance test piece. It starts with moderate climbing and then leads to the crux section. The crux is about powerful moves on relatively good crimps and ends with a daring cross move. After that, you reach a saving rest and you can enjoy the easier exit on some lovely grey rock. So itโ€™s very fun to climb!โ€

Adam Ondra did Pungitopo (8c+) in Red Point Wall in March. "Bolted by Francesco Morandi. Epic line, epic rock! Hard to say the grade, tried one day with soft skin and wrong beta, then did it next day with better beta. Could be 8c+."

Daรฑos con-laterales 8C+ FA by Nacho Sanchez
Nacho Sanchez reports on Insta, with a 4 min video, that he has done the FA of Daรฑos con-laterales 8C+ in Fortuna, after 30+ sessions. The Spaniard has previously done two 8C/+ and eight 8C's.

Could you say something about the process of how you took it down?
I started trying it some years ago. When I solved the isolated moves, I thought I wasn't too far from sending it, but I needed years of training to link the first three moves and another year to send it. Sometimes I had to stop trying it because of some injuries, but I finally overcame them and felt strong enough to send it. It has been hard mentally, but I've enjoyed the process very much.

Did you do any replica or specific training?
I did a lot of body tension and compression exercises and climbed many problems on the board with side pulls too.

William Bosi, who has taken a break from comps in 2022, has done done his third 8C in six days, Outliers in TROMBARROW. "Really happy to get the 2nd ascent after a huge battle totally in 4 broken footholds. causing me to change beta multiply times."