NEWS
20 July 2022
Hattori Hanzo 8b+ MP by Katherine Choong
Katherine Choong, who has been top-30 in the World Cup some 30 times, has done Hattori Hanzo (8b+) in Titlis Nordwand. The 30-year-old has previously also done two 9aโs and several other hard MPโs up to 8b+. In other words, her track record is one of the most impressive out there. (c) Vladek Zumr
โSo happy to complete a perfect no fall ascent the multi-pitch route Hattori Hanzo, 7 pitches, 8b+ max. (5b, 6b, 7b, 6c, 8b+, 8a+, 7a) in a day. And, the best part is that my partner Jim Zimmermann also sent the route on the same day. I led all the pitches, one after the other. Jim top roped the 4 ยซ easy ยป first pitches and I belayed him on lead for the 3 last pitches. Thank you Matthias Trottmann for bolting this amazing route!โ
What are your following summer plans?
Not sure yet but I would like to go to La Ramirole again (single pitch and maybe try the multi pitch route Hosana 8c max.), Aiglun with Ali Baba and maybe Piz dal Naz 8b max. also in the Titlis north face.
What is it you like the most doing multi-pitches?
The challenge is very complete. You have the fear of heights to deal with, the rope handling. In this route there was no trace of chalk. So the first time it seemed impossible! Then you get used to it and you finally surpass your limits. And then you don't "just" have to send a pitch but send several pitches in a row, mentally and physically I find that difficult! And of course the fact that it's a two-person adventure. You share so much more with your partner when you are in a multi-pitch climbing.
โSo happy to complete a perfect no fall ascent the multi-pitch route Hattori Hanzo, 7 pitches, 8b+ max. (5b, 6b, 7b, 6c, 8b+, 8a+, 7a) in a day. And, the best part is that my partner Jim Zimmermann also sent the route on the same day. I led all the pitches, one after the other. Jim top roped the 4 ยซ easy ยป first pitches and I belayed him on lead for the 3 last pitches. Thank you Matthias Trottmann for bolting this amazing route!โ
What are your following summer plans?
Not sure yet but I would like to go to La Ramirole again (single pitch and maybe try the multi pitch route Hosana 8c max.), Aiglun with Ali Baba and maybe Piz dal Naz 8b max. also in the Titlis north face.
What is it you like the most doing multi-pitches?
The challenge is very complete. You have the fear of heights to deal with, the rope handling. In this route there was no trace of chalk. So the first time it seemed impossible! Then you get used to it and you finally surpass your limits. And then you don't "just" have to send a pitch but send several pitches in a row, mentally and physically I find that difficult! And of course the fact that it's a two-person adventure. You share so much more with your partner when you are in a multi-pitch climbing.
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4
020 July 2022
Two 8A's by Natalie Bรคrtschi
Natalie Bรคrtschi has been on a four week trip to Rocklands ticking almost 30 boulders where the highlights grade-wise were Mintberry Crunch (8A) and Cinquiรจme soleil (8A). In the picture, the 28-year-old is doing .
"I was very pleased to find myself in better shape than the years before and finish off some classics like Caroline (7C+) and Pinotage (7C). My personal highlight was climbing Cinquiรจme Soleil (8A) in a single session. It's a comp style dyno with a foot stab into a tricky and committing end which took me a lot more tries than the actual jump. It's rare to find these kinds of moves outside and therefore hard to compare grade-wise but I think the style of this one suited me particularly well. Another one that went down surprisingly quick was Mintberry Crunch (8A) in Echo Valley (near Cape Town), which I had already spent one session on 4 years ago. Definitely not the hardest for its grade but still tricky for me since I was pretty much climbing at full span on the crux moves. My main goal this year was Black Shadow (8A+) which I had already tried on previous trips. I could consistently do it in two parts but unfortunately couldn't quite put it together, so this will have to wait for next time."
What do you think has been the key to being stronger this trip?
Well, itโs been four years since my last trip and Iโve been training a lot, mostly for competitions which I think made me a more well-rounded climber in general. In climbing there are so many variables physically and mentally but probably the biggest difference Iโve noticed is improved finger strength, mostly through continuous hangboarding and climbing on a spray wall (35-45 degree). However, I would still consider finger strength one of my biggest weaknesses, especially when climbing outside. Iโve also struggled with heel hooks (which are oftentimes crucial, especially in Rocklands) because of some minor knee issues but this year it seems like my legs are finally strong and healthy, never skip leg day I guess ๐ Last but not least, I decided to reduce my workload as a chiropractor and I have been working part-time since last autumn which allows me to put more time into training and climbing in general. Sorry for the long answer but itโs hard to pinpoint exactly what made the difference, I guess consistency is key!
"I was very pleased to find myself in better shape than the years before and finish off some classics like Caroline (7C+) and Pinotage (7C). My personal highlight was climbing Cinquiรจme Soleil (8A) in a single session. It's a comp style dyno with a foot stab into a tricky and committing end which took me a lot more tries than the actual jump. It's rare to find these kinds of moves outside and therefore hard to compare grade-wise but I think the style of this one suited me particularly well. Another one that went down surprisingly quick was Mintberry Crunch (8A) in Echo Valley (near Cape Town), which I had already spent one session on 4 years ago. Definitely not the hardest for its grade but still tricky for me since I was pretty much climbing at full span on the crux moves. My main goal this year was Black Shadow (8A+) which I had already tried on previous trips. I could consistently do it in two parts but unfortunately couldn't quite put it together, so this will have to wait for next time."
What do you think has been the key to being stronger this trip?
Well, itโs been four years since my last trip and Iโve been training a lot, mostly for competitions which I think made me a more well-rounded climber in general. In climbing there are so many variables physically and mentally but probably the biggest difference Iโve noticed is improved finger strength, mostly through continuous hangboarding and climbing on a spray wall (35-45 degree). However, I would still consider finger strength one of my biggest weaknesses, especially when climbing outside. Iโve also struggled with heel hooks (which are oftentimes crucial, especially in Rocklands) because of some minor knee issues but this year it seems like my legs are finally strong and healthy, never skip leg day I guess ๐ Last but not least, I decided to reduce my workload as a chiropractor and I have been working part-time since last autumn which allows me to put more time into training and climbing in general. Sorry for the long answer but itโs hard to pinpoint exactly what made the difference, I guess consistency is key!
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2
119 July 2022
Change P1 9a+ by Seb Bouin
Sebastien BOUIN, who in the last week has done one 9a+ and one 9a+ (b) in Flatanger, has sent Change P1 (9a+). Adam Ondra did the FA ten years ago and it is the first pitch of the 55m long Change (9b+) also established in 2012 by Ondra. In total, it took the French climber eight goes to send it although he was close already on his fourth go but opted to stop after the crux as he was risking a ground fall not being able to clip two quickdraws. Full story on his Insta.
His next plan is to work on the 9b+ and also on the 130m long route, in one pitch, to the top of the amazing cave. In total, he has done 76 routes 8c+/9a and harder meaning that he just needs two more in order to pass Dani Andrada who is #3 on that list after Ondra and Alex Megos. (c) Marco Mรผller
His next plan is to work on the 9b+ and also on the 130m long route, in one pitch, to the top of the amazing cave. In total, he has done 76 routes 8c+/9a and harder meaning that he just needs two more in order to pass Dani Andrada who is #3 on that list after Ondra and Alex Megos. (c) Marco Mรผller
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10
319 July 2022
Resisting Arrest 9a by Jonathan Siegrist
Jonathan Siegrist has done Resisting Arrest (9a) in Robber's Roost. "Great movement, nothing weird or too cruxy, big resting spots, comfy holds, proud line, IMHO entry for the grade, and all just a 5 minute walk from the car... for sure this will be a much loved classic!"
Could you tell us a little more about your ascent? The process was kind of tough! I had not so much time at home between trips, and I was really motivated to try this line because it looked awesome. After a month in Ceuse I knew it would be perfect training for me to get into shape for my summer goals (roof climbing). But unfortunately I got Covid on my way back from France, and the weather here has been super hot. Iโm quite stubborn though, and I tried my best with the time I had anyways. Itโs a great route just because itโs really fun moves, super consistent - nothing too cruxy or painful - and itโs broken up with rests so it feels easy to digest. No bad holdsโฆ one of those routes thatโs just fun and encouraging to try hard on!
Could you tell us a little more about your ascent? The process was kind of tough! I had not so much time at home between trips, and I was really motivated to try this line because it looked awesome. After a month in Ceuse I knew it would be perfect training for me to get into shape for my summer goals (roof climbing). But unfortunately I got Covid on my way back from France, and the weather here has been super hot. Iโm quite stubborn though, and I tried my best with the time I had anyways. Itโs a great route just because itโs really fun moves, super consistent - nothing too cruxy or painful - and itโs broken up with rests so it feels easy to digest. No bad holdsโฆ one of those routes thatโs just fun and encouraging to try hard on!
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7
318 July 2022
Beautiful Mind 8C FA William Bosi
William Bosi has done the FA of Beautiful Mind (8C) in Peak District. "The obvious link of the Trance start into Dandelion mind, I found this harder than Trance." (c) Sam Blackwell
On Insta he says, "This is my 10th and maybe hardest 8C boulder Iโve done this year, although itโs more of a link I think it still climbs really well ๐". The Brit has taken one year off from the comp circuit and he is #1 in the 8a ranking game.
On Insta he says, "This is my 10th and maybe hardest 8C boulder Iโve done this year, although itโs more of a link I think it still climbs really well ๐". The Brit has taken one year off from the comp circuit and he is #1 in the 8a ranking game.
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1
2Janja Garnbret, who topped all four routes in the Chamonix World Cup and won on countback over three other girls, who also topped the final route, has posted some critical comments on Insta in regards to the route setting. โ... the disappointment of the route setting is still more dominant than the joy about the win.โ
Talking about how much training she has put in she says it โfeels disrespectful towards everyone's investment to push the sport.
The dilemma for the route setters seems to be that the Slovenian is consistently able to perform at a level above and beyond her fellow competitors. In Innsbruck last month, Janja said she was challenged by possibly the hardest route ever and she fell just a few moves from the top. The runner-up reached just over midway on the wall, 12 holds below Janja.
Talking about how much training she has put in she says it โfeels disrespectful towards everyone's investment to push the sport.
The dilemma for the route setters seems to be that the Slovenian is consistently able to perform at a level above and beyond her fellow competitors. In Innsbruck last month, Janja said she was challenged by possibly the hardest route ever and she fell just a few moves from the top. The runner-up reached just over midway on the wall, 12 holds below Janja.
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2
317 July 2022
Lehmann and Pilz Lead winners at the World Games
In the male Lead event at the World Games in USA, the medalists were the three last qualified to the finals. Sasha Lehmann and Masahiro Higuchi were tied #8 and last qualified to the finals. They started first in the finals and Lehmann topped the route and Higuchi got very high up and scored 32+. Then it was Mejdi Schalckโs turn to climb, as he was #7 in the qually. He got 24+ which was good enough for the bronze as five of the remaining finalists got 22+ and one 18+. In the end, Jesse Grupper was #4, on countback, as he had won the qualification.
Among the females, Jessica Pilz, #2 in the qualification, got seven holds above Natsuki Tanii, who won the first stage. Lana Skusek got the bronze ahead of Ignacia Quinteros.
It should be mentioned that several of the best did not participate as the World Games were scheduled right in between two World Cups in France.
Among the females, Jessica Pilz, #2 in the qualification, got seven holds above Natsuki Tanii, who won the first stage. Lana Skusek got the bronze ahead of Ignacia Quinteros.
It should be mentioned that several of the best did not participate as the World Games were scheduled right in between two World Cups in France.
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4
115 July 2022
Qui 9a+ by Alfons Dornauer
Alfons Dornauer reports on Insta that he has done Stefan Fรผrstโs 1996 test-piece in Geisterschmiedwand. Stefan first graded it 8c+ but as nobody could repeat it, it become a 9a. Then Adam Ondra made the first repeat suggesting 9a+ which was confirmed by Roland Hemetzberger who did the third ascent. (c) Misha P
โ I started to work on the route in the autumn 2021. Already on my first sessions on the route I made some good progress. The crux section definitely suits my style so I continued to work on the route this spring season. However I broke a tiny and a crucial intermediate hold in the crux section. I was still able to do the crux quite solid but didnโt made good progress from the ground. Since the little rest before the crux is not as comfortable as expected it was crucial to climb the first part of the route which is around 8c/+ as efficient as possible. Somehow I lost a bit of motivation and decided take a few weeks off from trying itโฆSo after 2 to 3 weeks I came back with full motivation and was able to send it within a few sessions.
One of my greatest weakness is definitely to be persistent when it comes down to finish off a project. Before I wasnโt really impressed by someone sending a route or boulder by projecting it for such a long time. But itโs definitely an ability not really easy to learn when you are impatient. Moreover it was great to see how little adjustments can be decisive to finish it off. Personally itโs an ascent I am definitely pretty proud of.โ
โ I started to work on the route in the autumn 2021. Already on my first sessions on the route I made some good progress. The crux section definitely suits my style so I continued to work on the route this spring season. However I broke a tiny and a crucial intermediate hold in the crux section. I was still able to do the crux quite solid but didnโt made good progress from the ground. Since the little rest before the crux is not as comfortable as expected it was crucial to climb the first part of the route which is around 8c/+ as efficient as possible. Somehow I lost a bit of motivation and decided take a few weeks off from trying itโฆSo after 2 to 3 weeks I came back with full motivation and was able to send it within a few sessions.
One of my greatest weakness is definitely to be persistent when it comes down to finish off a project. Before I wasnโt really impressed by someone sending a route or boulder by projecting it for such a long time. But itโs definitely an ability not really easy to learn when you are impatient. Moreover it was great to see how little adjustments can be decisive to finish it off. Personally itโs an ascent I am definitely pretty proud of.โ
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20
015 July 2022
Thorโs Hammer 2 (9a+) by Seb Bouin
Sebastien BOUIN reports on Insta that he has done the first repeat of Adam Ondraโs
Thor's Hammer 2 (9a+) in Flatanger. It starts by jumaring to the anchor of Thorโs Hammer (9a), bolted by Magnus Midtbรถ.
The big plan is to do it from the ground creating a potential 9b+ but there are also easier and harder link-up possibilities. Seb is also talking about the possibility to bolt and continue another 50 meters to the top above the amazing cave. However, as it stands, bolting new routes is not currently allowed. Marco Mรผller
The big plan is to do it from the ground creating a potential 9b+ but there are also easier and harder link-up possibilities. Seb is also talking about the possibility to bolt and continue another 50 meters to the top above the amazing cave. However, as it stands, bolting new routes is not currently allowed. Marco Mรผller
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20
3This is an opportunity to combine your passion for climbing with your professional expertise. Youโll get to design interfaces that tens of thousands of people rely on in a wide range of situations, many of which are related to climbing.
As a Senior UI/UX designer, your job is to create designs that turn innovative ideas into reality. You will work on sketches with the product team and turn them into wireframes and eventually designs that are ready for implementation, before closing the circle by joining in on the QA. Youโll be in charge of building and maintaining our design library in Figma to make sure that we achieve consistency in our features across different platforms. Youโll go beyond making wireframes pixel perfect, you will be part-product-owner, part-UI-designer. To manage all of this, you will rely on your ability to work methodically and to think analytically, as well as your deep understanding of how humans interact with software to solve problems. Whether that is a climber lost in a forest without reception, or a gym owner trying to set up a boulder circuit for a friendly competition amongst a training group.
Requirements:
- You like to think hard so that people who use your interfaces donโt have to. You understand that an interface is between a human with emotions, and a piece of software with logical constraints. You like to find ways of making that relationship as simple as possible.
- You have the proven ability to build off of, and create from, roughly staged ideas and requirements across products to identify patterns, and create simple user experiences.
- You are committed to quality, thatโs why you see details in implementations that no one else catches, and point them out.
- You are able to work in an international, partially remote, team.
- You are experienced with Figma and enjoy working with it.
- The ability to write CSS and/or HTML code is a big plus.
- You are fluent in German and English and able to communicate clearly.
- You are willing to travel to South Tyrol in regular intervals (min. 6 times a year).
Sound like you?
Great, we would love to hear from you! Please send the following to [email protected]:
- Your CV in English or German, highlighting your most relevant professional experience, as well as a short list of your favorite climbs.
- Either a one-page write-up (Cover Letter) in which you briefly introduce yourself and tell us why you would like to work with us, or an interface that you have designed with a brief description of what motivated your choices in that design.
About us:
We are a team of roughly 35 people from more than 12 countries that share the common goal of creating software and digital solutions that express our passion for climbing. Our office is located in Brixen, South Tyrol, but some of us work remotely and visit sporadically. We have five main products - the Smart Climbing Gym software, NO-Q, the result service, 8a.nu, and the Vertical-Life App. While weโve been focused on the first two in the last two years, we are now expanding our team and itching to better connect and improve 8a.nu and Vertical-Life. Join us to make it happen!
See other job openings at our website.
As a Senior UI/UX designer, your job is to create designs that turn innovative ideas into reality. You will work on sketches with the product team and turn them into wireframes and eventually designs that are ready for implementation, before closing the circle by joining in on the QA. Youโll be in charge of building and maintaining our design library in Figma to make sure that we achieve consistency in our features across different platforms. Youโll go beyond making wireframes pixel perfect, you will be part-product-owner, part-UI-designer. To manage all of this, you will rely on your ability to work methodically and to think analytically, as well as your deep understanding of how humans interact with software to solve problems. Whether that is a climber lost in a forest without reception, or a gym owner trying to set up a boulder circuit for a friendly competition amongst a training group.
Requirements:
- You like to think hard so that people who use your interfaces donโt have to. You understand that an interface is between a human with emotions, and a piece of software with logical constraints. You like to find ways of making that relationship as simple as possible.
- You have the proven ability to build off of, and create from, roughly staged ideas and requirements across products to identify patterns, and create simple user experiences.
- You are committed to quality, thatโs why you see details in implementations that no one else catches, and point them out.
- You are able to work in an international, partially remote, team.
- You are experienced with Figma and enjoy working with it.
- The ability to write CSS and/or HTML code is a big plus.
- You are fluent in German and English and able to communicate clearly.
- You are willing to travel to South Tyrol in regular intervals (min. 6 times a year).
Sound like you?
Great, we would love to hear from you! Please send the following to [email protected]:
- Your CV in English or German, highlighting your most relevant professional experience, as well as a short list of your favorite climbs.
- Either a one-page write-up (Cover Letter) in which you briefly introduce yourself and tell us why you would like to work with us, or an interface that you have designed with a brief description of what motivated your choices in that design.
About us:
We are a team of roughly 35 people from more than 12 countries that share the common goal of creating software and digital solutions that express our passion for climbing. Our office is located in Brixen, South Tyrol, but some of us work remotely and visit sporadically. We have five main products - the Smart Climbing Gym software, NO-Q, the result service, 8a.nu, and the Vertical-Life App. While weโve been focused on the first two in the last two years, we are now expanding our team and itching to better connect and improve 8a.nu and Vertical-Life. Join us to make it happen!
See other job openings at our website.
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0Favorites
Janja Garnbret has added another milestone to her remarkable climbing career by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Cรฉรผse, one of the hardeโฆ
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48Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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13Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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81Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
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69Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
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