15 July 2022
Qui 9a+ by Alfons Dornauer
Alfons Dornauer reports on Insta that he has done Stefan Fรผrstโs 1996 test-piece in Geisterschmiedwand. Stefan first graded it 8c+ but as nobody could repeat it, it become a 9a. Then Adam Ondra made the first repeat suggesting 9a+ which was confirmed by Roland Hemetzberger who did the third ascent. (c) Misha P
โ I started to work on the route in the autumn 2021. Already on my first sessions on the route I made some good progress. The crux section definitely suits my style so I continued to work on the route this spring season. However I broke a tiny and a crucial intermediate hold in the crux section. I was still able to do the crux quite solid but didnโt made good progress from the ground. Since the little rest before the crux is not as comfortable as expected it was crucial to climb the first part of the route which is around 8c/+ as efficient as possible. Somehow I lost a bit of motivation and decided take a few weeks off from trying itโฆSo after 2 to 3 weeks I came back with full motivation and was able to send it within a few sessions.
One of my greatest weakness is definitely to be persistent when it comes down to finish off a project. Before I wasnโt really impressed by someone sending a route or boulder by projecting it for such a long time. But itโs definitely an ability not really easy to learn when you are impatient. Moreover it was great to see how little adjustments can be decisive to finish it off. Personally itโs an ascent I am definitely pretty proud of.โ
โ I started to work on the route in the autumn 2021. Already on my first sessions on the route I made some good progress. The crux section definitely suits my style so I continued to work on the route this spring season. However I broke a tiny and a crucial intermediate hold in the crux section. I was still able to do the crux quite solid but didnโt made good progress from the ground. Since the little rest before the crux is not as comfortable as expected it was crucial to climb the first part of the route which is around 8c/+ as efficient as possible. Somehow I lost a bit of motivation and decided take a few weeks off from trying itโฆSo after 2 to 3 weeks I came back with full motivation and was able to send it within a few sessions.
One of my greatest weakness is definitely to be persistent when it comes down to finish off a project. Before I wasnโt really impressed by someone sending a route or boulder by projecting it for such a long time. But itโs definitely an ability not really easy to learn when you are impatient. Moreover it was great to see how little adjustments can be decisive to finish it off. Personally itโs an ascent I am definitely pretty proud of.โ
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Outdoor bouldering isโฆ