Qui 9a+ by Alfons Dornauer
” I started to work on the route in the autumn 2021. Already on my first sessions on the route I made some good progress. The crux section definitely suits my style so I continued to work on the route this spring season. However I broke a tiny and a crucial intermediate hold in the crux section. I was still able to do the crux quite solid but didn’t made good progress from the ground. Since the little rest before the crux is not as comfortable as expected it was crucial to climb the first part of the route which is around 8c/+ as efficient as possible. Somehow I lost a bit of motivation and decided take a few weeks off from trying it…So after 2 to 3 weeks I came back with full motivation and was able to send it within a few sessions.
One of my greatest weakness is definitely to be persistent when it comes down to finish off a project. Before I wasn’t really impressed by someone sending a route or boulder by projecting it for such a long time. But it’s definitely an ability not really easy to learn when you are impatient. Moreover it was great to see how little adjustments can be decisive to finish it off. Personally it’s an ascent I am definitely pretty proud of.”
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads
Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…
Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…
Jakob Schubert sends Qui (9a+)
Jakob Schubert reports on Instagram that he has sent Qui (9a+) at the Geisterschmiedwand. The Austrian projected it last year, and he sent it on his second go t…
Solitary Souls 8c+ onsight by Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra has onsighted Prospettiva Nevski (8c), "Nice pumpy line, really proud to onsight this one! given 8c+, hard 8c is a good grade in my opinion." and Solitary Souls (8c+) in Arco. "Perfect flow on all of its 35 meters, unique line, unique to climb!" In total, the 29-year-old has now 23 8c+ o…
Adam Ondra started bolting a line in Bus de la Stria in the vicinity of Arco ten years ago but abandoned it as he could not find a sequence getting through the crux. Trying it again in 2022 he made the FA of first one 9a+/b and then also the FA of Bomba (9b). "One of the most epic moments of my clim…
Jakob Schubert sends Qui (9a+)
Jakob Schubert reports on Instagram that he has sent Qui (9a+) at the Geisterschmiedwand. The Austrian projected it last year, and he sent it on his second go t…
Solitary Souls 8c+ onsight by Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra has onsighted Prospettiva Nevski (8c), "Nice pumpy line, really proud to onsight this one! given 8c+, hard 8c is a good grade in my opinion." and Solitary Souls (8c+) in Arco. "Perfect flow on all of its 35 meters, unique line, unique to climb!" In total, the 29-year-old has now 23 8c+ o…
Adam Ondra started bolting a line in Bus de la Stria in the vicinity of Arco ten years ago but abandoned it as he could not find a sequence getting through the crux. Trying it again in 2022 he made the FA of first one 9a+/b and then also the FA of Bomba (9b). "One of the most epic moments of my clim…
Katie Lamb makes history
Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…
Schubert sends Project Big during his 6th Live attempt
"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…