15 July 2022

Qui 9a+ by Alfons Dornauer

Alfons Dornauer reports on Insta that he has done Stefan Fürst’s 1996 test-piece in Geisterschmiedwand. Stefan first graded it 8c+ but as nobody could repeat it, it become a 9a. Then Adam Ondra made the first repeat suggesting 9a+ which was confirmed by Roland Hemetzberger who did the third ascent. (c) Misha P

I started to work on the route in the autumn 2021. Already on my first sessions on the route I made some good progress. The crux section definitely suits my style so I continued to work on the route this spring season. However I broke a tiny and a crucial intermediate hold in the crux section. I was still able to do the crux quite solid but didn’t made good progress from the ground. Since the little rest before the crux is not as comfortable as expected it was crucial to climb the first part of the route which is around 8c/+ as efficient as possible. Somehow I lost a bit of motivation and decided take a few weeks off from trying it…So after 2 to 3 weeks I came back with full motivation and was able to send it within a few sessions.

One of my greatest weakness is definitely to be persistent when it comes down to finish off a project. Before I wasn’t really impressed by someone sending a route or boulder by projecting it for such a long time. But it’s definitely an ability not really easy to learn when you are impatient. Moreover it was great to see how little adjustments can be decisive to finish it off. Personally it’s an ascent I am definitely pretty proud of.”
0 comments
Most commented
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads

Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…

Updated: Alex Megos comments doing Change (9b+) in 5 sessions

Alex Megos reports on Instagram that after a disappointing performance at the Olympics, he traveled to Flatanger and in just five sessions he was able to compl…

Welcome to Vertical-Life Web

Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…

Related
Jakob Schubert sends Qui (9a+)

Jakob Schubert reports on Instagram that he has sent Qui (9a+) at the Geisterschmiedwand. The Austrian projected it last year, and he sent it on his second go t…

Goosfraba 8c+ flash and two 9a's by Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra has enjoyed some great days in Padaro, close to Arco, where he flashed Goosfraba (8c+), "Climbs better than looks and all natural! Pretty happy to do…

Ondra and Hammelmüller win EC in Prague

Adam Ondra won the European Boulder Cup in Prague after lots of drama where he, as the last climber, topped out the last problem. Runner-up was Edvards Gruzitis…