Yannis Gautier, who was #10 in an Euro Youth Cup in May, reports on Insta that he has done La moustache qui fâche (9a+) in Entraygues. It was put up by Enzo Oddo in 2011 and it has been repeated five times.
"I started trying this route two years ago but I was really far from the sending. It took me six sessions to pass the first crux, which is definitely not the hardest part of the route. Day after day it becomes more like a personal achievement to try hard on this route and I wanted to prove to myself I'm able to climb something hard. Working this route was so fun and I really liked the process because the effort is pretty short (12 hard moves) and fun to climb. It does not make you weaker to climb a lot on in. I also tried it with Nao Monchois this summer and it was very inspiring. The send try was really unexpected because I was not really strong I just had a great fight and it worked."

What is your next plan?
The next plan is to try several 9a's and principally to train a lot next year to increase my level. I will also do a lot of outdoor bouldering next year and I want to do maybe my first 8B+ or at least a lot of king lines in Switzerland and Fontainebleau.

Alex Megos and Adam Ondra got highest on the first route and were also among the six guys topping the second qualification route. France, Great Britain, Belgium, and Italy got three through to the semifinal. Complete male Lead result.

In the Boulder female qualification, Janja Garnbret and Cloe Caulier won their respective group. Slovenia, who dominated the Lead qually yesterday, had three girls in the Top-11. Also, France and Italy had three girls making the Top-20 semifinal. In one of the groups, only 1 Top 4 zones was good enough for being #13. Complete female Boulder results.

William Bosi, who the last year has done 11 8C's, has made the FA of Honey Badger 8C+ in Peak District. He calls it his hardest ever and it includes 22 moves before doing a very scary top-out, where a big foothold popped. The 23-year-old is #1 in the 8a ranking game. Last year he was #11 in the Lead World Championship but in 2022 he did choose to take a break from the competition circuit before going for the Olympics qualifications in 2023.

Gianluca Vighetti sent TCT last year being the first 12-year-old to reach 9a. Stefano Ghisolfi made the FA in 2014, commenting. "I want to dedicate this route to Tito Traversa (that's why I called TCT), because I want everybody will remember him forever."

Vojta Trojan has done Le Cadre Nouvelle Version (9a) in Céüse. "Incredibly happy for taking this one down! Amazing line, but mentally challenging." Adam Ondra did the FA in 2010 avoiding the chipped pockets on .

On the first day of the European Championship in Munich, Janja Garnbret won the Lead qualification meanwhile Manuel Cornu and Nicolai Uznik won the two different boulder qually groups. From the female Lead results we can see that Slovenia had five girls in the Top-12. Laura Rogora was tied #1 on one route but did not participate in her second route due to a finger injury. From the male Boulder results, we can see that France got all their five athletes inte the semi. High ranked guys did not make it to the semi; Simon Lorenzi #23, Maximillian Milne #25, Michael Piccolruaz #25 and Nicolas Collin #27. (c) Jan Virt/IFSC

Marine Thevent reports on Instagram that she has done Microcline (8A+) and Colorado Corridor in Rocklands. In total, the full time lawyer has now done some 75 boulders 8A to 8B. (c) Clement Lechaptois

"For Microcline, I did the stand (7c+) in the first session and I was thinking to return to do Isabell's low start but Clement told me that Dai opened the sit (I didn’t know that the sit start even exists but it was obvious since you have perfect two holds to start!) So I sent it in the 2nd session at the boulder :) For Coco: It fits my style really well! A small compression with a heel hook. It took me one session!

How was Rocklands this year?
So it was my 5th Time in Rocklands and I had no « big expectations» since I had a finger injury from March to June. My only goal was to climb without any pain at all! This year the energy in Rocklands was really cool! I met some really nice and psyched people and it was really nice to see some climbers again in this paradise!

Katie Lamb has done her fifth 8B+, Book Club in Rocklands. During the last month she has also sent Ubuntu (8B), calling it 8A+, and two 8A's. The 23-year-old extends her #1 position in the 8a ranking game, which she has hold for more than two years now.

Victor Guillermin, who this spring got the bronze in a Euro Youth Cup, has done Moksha (9a) in Pic St Loup. The 17-year-old needed four sessions to take the 50m line down.

What is your next plan?
I don't really know what will be my next plans but I think I'll start to work on the big sister of Moksha: Beyond, Seb Bouin's king line, an incredible 9a+... a real dream line!

How long is the hike to the crag?
It takes approximately 1hours 15minutes ... but the hike is very steep, steeper than in Ceuse😅.