NEWS

Leo Bรธe sent Change (9b+) in September after working it for 2.5 months. โ€œThe trick to sending was a combination of many things, but having the right mindset was crucial. I got to a point where I was tired mentally after so many days on the route. It was even hard to walk up to the cave, but a change of mindset helped alot. I started focusing on the battle and not the result. I decided to be happy with my performance as long as I tried my hardest. I was able to just focus on the moves and trying hard and it got me all the way to the top.โ€

Sam Weir ticks Tagada 8B+ (C)
Sam Weir, who had his best year last year sending seven boulders 8C and beyond, has repeated Tagada (8B+) in Chironico. โ€œ2nd ascent. Harder than all my 8C of last year so I suspect this one is regular 8C.โ€

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Tagada is a small power boulder revolving around an undercling opened by my friend Clรฉment Lechaptois a few years ago. After a few sessions I managed to work it out. Clem opened it at 8B+? but it was harder than the 8Cs of last year for me so I think this could be more in the 8C range. He is out there fighting grade inflation all alone ๐Ÿคฃ

Noah Wheeler flashes Brass Knuckles (8B+)
Noah Wheeler, who last year sent two 9Aโ€™s, has flashed Zach Gallaโ€™s Brass Knuckles (8B+) in Dayton Pocket / Laurel Snow. โ€Amazing boulder! Tried to optimize my warmup and prep because I knew it was in style and it payed off! With the original beta.โ€

How did you optimize your warm up?
I have a series of dynamic stretches that I do every climbing day - I did those for a more extended period of time and did some warmup moves on Riverdance (7C) - the boulder to the right of Brass.

What about beta preparation, any videos?
Not much beta prep - Watched some vids. I knew of two different betas for the crux going in - heel hook and toe in. I knew the toe in beta was much less nuanced and more board style, so it was the obvious choice for a flash go. Ultimately it all came down to a nice long proper warm up and a good mindset!

Sport Climber of 2025 - Draft
For 24 years, weโ€™ve compiled our Climber of the Year list using available reporting and information. We place added emphasis on climbers who excel across multiple disciplines, from competition climbing to performance on real rock. First ascents, trad climbing, multi-pitch routes, and deep-water soloing (DWS) also factor into our selections. Because the list is inherently subjective, we welcome your input, suggestions, and nominations. (c) Andrea Donato

1. Laura Rogora - ITA
2. Janja Garnbret - SLO
3. William Bosi - GBR
4. Chaehyun Seo - KOR
5. Mejdi Schalck - FRA
6. Adam Ondra - CZE
7. Michaela Kiersch - USA
8. Alberto Gines Lรณpez - ESP
9. Brooke Raboutou - USA
10.Yannick Flohรฉ - GER, Jorge Diaz-Rullo - ESP

11. Eva Hammelmรผller, Sorato Anraku, Seb Bouin, Elias Iagnemma, Jules Marchaland, Simon Lorenzi, Alex Megos, Katie Lamb, Jakob Schubert, Lee Dohyun, Hamish McArtur, Stefano Ghisolfi, Erin McNeice, Noah Wheeler, Manon Hily, Stefano Carnati, Oriane Bertone, Filip Schenk, Dylan Chuat, Nicolai Uลพnik, Melina Costanza, Pepa ล indel, Tereza Svobodova, Sera Gearhart, Barbara Zangerl, Zach Galla, Martina Demmel, Claudia Ghisolfi, Lara Trinkl, Gio Placci, Andrea Chelleris, Sean Bailey, Leo Bรธe, Jonathan Flor, Jonathan Siegrist, Loic Zehani, Karoline Sinnhuber, Lorenzo Bogliacino, Simone Tentori, Annie Sanders, Sungsu Lee, Satone Yoshida, Pietro Vidi, Colin Duffy, Mao Nakamora, Toby Roberts, Lucija Tarkuลก, Jacopo Larcher, Camilla Moroni, Aidan Roberts

Andrea Chelleris, 16,  does Ciudad de Dios (9a)
Andrea Chelleris, who the last month previously has sent three 9aโ€™s, has completed Ciudad de dios (9a) in Santa Linya. The 16-year-old Italian, who won the Euro Youth Cup, is #1 in the Vertical-Life Youth ranking game. (c) Emile Pino - Pino pictures

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
After I sent La Fabela (8c+) I decided to try Ciudad de dios which adds a harder start to La Fabela. From the first go I could do the moves well and I started falling on the first crux on my second try. Then yesterday I came and got close on my first 3 attempts but the conditions were humid so every time something was slipping. I wanted to go back home to try it the next day but when a bit of sun got on the wall the conditions got better so I decided to give one more try. I was tired so I had to do all the moves without any mistakes. It worked out and I passed the crux but it wasnโ€™t finished because I had all the Fabela part, so on the jug I stayed a lot to get all the pump away in order to arrive fresh on the very last crux. I had to fight a bit but fortunately I wasnโ€™t close to fall.

Laura Rogora FAโ€™s Malkuth (9a)
Laura Rogora, who earlier in 2025 climbed a dozen routes graded 9a or 9a+, has made the first ascent of Malkuth (9a) at Ferentillo. In addition, with six 8c or 8c+ onsights and getting the bronze in the Lead World Cup, the 24-year-old Italian is the Vertical-Life climber of 2025. (c) Marco Marotta

Can you tell us more about the great sending day?
A few months ago, Cody Roth had told me about this route he was trying at Gabbio, and when I went down to Rome for the holidays, I immediately went to try it. The route starts from Jorgao, a short 8b+, then traverses left just before the chain and connects to an 8c, Die Hard. Yesterday, even on the first attempt, I felt good, but I a foot slipped just before the connection with Die Hard; I did it on the second try of the day. After that, I climbed Kether, an 8c which is the exit variation of Jorgao, and Nel buii 8b, another classic at Gabbio that I hadnโ€™t climbed yet. I also got my hands on a new project bolted by Cody.

How can you best explain your great progress in 2025?
For sure, the fact that Iโ€™ve been focusing exclusively on lead climbing with my coach Alessandro Marrocchi and spending a little more time on rock climbing has contributed to my progress.

Serena Morgan ticks A Maze of Death (8A+)
Serena Morgan has done A Maze of Death (8A+) in Bishop (CA). The Dave Graham boulder from 2002 has been logged 116 times and boasts a 4.6-star rating, putting it among the best out there.

Can you tell us more about doing your first 8A+?
I first tried Maze almost 4 years ago and did quite well on it, but hadnโ€™t been back to try it again until now. After working on other styles, it felt much harder than Iโ€™d remembered. I spent several days doing some re-learning and new learning to make it possible for me. Back in Colorado Iโ€™ve just been long-term projecting, so it was really fun and rewarding to try hard and execute!

What are your 2026 plans?
Iโ€™m pretty psyched to try the Altruist and Lost when I get back to Boulder. Iโ€™m thinking of staying out there through the alpine season and then spending the fall/winter in Bishop and maybe Yosemite.

Gianluca Vighetti, 17, does Niobe (9a)
Gianluca Vighetti has repeated Adam Ondraโ€™s recent Niobe (9a) in Arco. โ€3rd go. Epic slab, a lot of flexibility is required.โ€ (c) Nicolรฒ Conterno

Can you tell us more about your quick ascent?
The moment I saw Ondra's video on his FA of this route, I was immediately captured by these incredible moves and excited to give it a try. The route was as amazing as l imagined it to be, one of the best l've ever tried for sure. After one attempt I unlocked all the cruxes and almost sent it on my 2nd go falling at the very last hard move due to a slightly wrong foot placement, then after resting very little I gave one last try when there was almost no light and sent it.

Honestly, I don't have the experience to give a real opinion on the grade because l've never tried an hard slab route before but It's so beatiful that (even if it's necessary) I'm almost sorry to talk about the grade, I know that this thing is 100% my style but, even if I think it's difficult enough to be 9a, I don't exclude the possibility that it might be easier.

Simone Tentori sends three 8Cโ€™s
Simone Tentori has had some great days in Valle Bavona doing Primitivo (8C), 4-Lo (8C) and Roadkill (8C). โ€Surreal experience climbing it myself. The kneebar drove me crazy, but stocked to eventually unlock it.โ€

How can you best explain the great progress this year?
2025 was a breakthrough year for me. I could spend more days on the rock than ever before and skipped indoor training for several months. I was seeking to push my limits further and decided to focus exclusively on very hard lines. In the past 12 months, I could climb 10 problems graded 8C (including one 8C+) and tried so many more across different locations, rock types, and styles. That was such a valuable lesson and I feel that it contributed to fundamentally reshape my climbing and my perspective on difficulty. Very excited to leave for the US soon and see what happens next

What are your US plans?
Not sure yet. I'll meet in arizona with my partner Siara and then hit Bishop or Red rocks base on the best conditions. I don't have a specific goal in mind, just keep the flow going and climbing on what gets me the most psyched. I'm keen and very curious to check Yosemite boulders if there is a chance.

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