Loic Zehani continues his fine form by making the first repeat of Manu Lopez’s Coup fourré (9a) in Faron Nord needing only three attempts.

”It’s a nice and long route (40m). The first pitch is a 10 meter powerful 8b called Fuego, then you have a good rest followed by 25 hard moves without good feet. This part is both physical and technical as often on the north face (of this crag). The moves are varied with pockets, underclings and crimps. The last 15 meters are very easy. (But, being a) North face in February: hard to get warm fingers but very good holds.”

Jorge Diaz-Rullo has, on the same day, onsighted Fill de Caín (8b+) and Los últimos días del Edén (8b+) in Margalef. The day before he onsighted Pa tu puta madre 8b (+) and over the last four weeks, the 23-year-old has onsighted nine lines 8a+ and harder. In the 8a onsight ranking game, the Spaniard is #2 after Adam Ondra. (c) Adri Martinez

Michaela Kiersch reports with an Insta video that she has done Forever More sit (8A+) in Brione. She has now done nine boulders 8A to 8A+ in the last ten days.

Can you tell us more about Forever More?
Forever More suited me really well - I fit in the box and I am feeling strong on crimps at the moment. Would have been a flash if I knew how to mantle!

How did you prepare for the flash attempt?
I didn’t prepare! I watched a YouTube video of the boulder and decided to try it. I always also give my best effort on flash attempts.

Adam Ondra sent Zvěřinec (9b+) in Moravský kras last November. "Second hardest route of my life, quite a bit harder than other 9b+ I have done or tried. Harder start into Perlorodka (my FA from 2011 that I graded 9a+ but it is probably more 9b - I just did not want to skip a grade in my homecrag). It is a linkup, but totally worth it in my opinion. There is a 9a called Kostej Nesmrtelny finishing in the last rest before the 8B+ crux of Perlorodka. Kostej + Perlorodka would be amazing direct line, but there is a very good rest halfway up of Kostej, so that is why I make a detour to the right through crux of Kudlanka (oldschool 8b+). That makes it harder and more resistant. 9a+ plus rest plus 8B+ boulder."

Jules Marchaland has repeated Chris Sharma’s First Ley (9a+) in Margalef, which is a slightly easier variation to the test-piece First Round First Minute (9b). (c) Esteban Lahoz

”I came to Margalef and my main goal was to do this route and I was able to do this masterpiece in six sessions. I tried it the first three days but after a long rainy day the route was completely wet… I took the opportunity to go do other easier routes and when it dried up I went back and I had crazy feelings! I took a rest day and I started to put very good tries (in). I fell at the last movement once but then on the following session I did it!”

What's next?
For Margalef, just to do some 8c or 8c+ but my trip finishes in just four days… and after, training for Supercrackinette (9a+) and for lead comps!

Last year, the 21-year-old took silver at the only Euro Cup he did. After that comp he did three World Cups, always placing in the top 20, in addition to sending his first three 9a’s.

Ethan Salvo has made what seems to be the first post-hold-break ascent of in Squamish. Harry Robertson did the original FA of the line, as an 8B, back in 2003.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Zazen is an old boulder that has quite a bit of mystery around the first ascent. The story is a bit unclear but a hold may have broke after the ascent making it harder. It has been unrepeated until now.

I’ve tried the boulder for around 15 days over the past year, but mainly the past 3 months with very cold dry weather. The boulder breaks down into a 3 move intro v11/12 into the hardest single move I’ve ever done, I’m not sure how to grade that move but it’s much physically harder than any other move I’ve tried in Squamish. After that you climb the classic V8 Gibb's cave. I sent the boulder 2nd try today, by myself with only a few pads. It was pretty cool to enjoy the moment by myself and have to try so hard, yet climb so well.

What is your climbing background?
I’ve been climbing for just over 5 years now, but was a competitive swimmer for years before. I think swimming helped a lot as a base strength for my climbing. I did the comp thing for a few years but slowly started to focus on bouldering outside. Last April I moved to Squamish and have mainly been climbing outside. It’s been a huge help for my climbing growth and progression. I like to try things at my limit and spend a lot of days trying them. Zazen was a cool one that fit me because of the crux hold, it’s a very small left hand mini pinch. During covid I had been training on a board for Lucid Dreaming (8C) which has a similar crux move. I never made it to Bishop but I think the hold specific strength really helped me with Zazen.

Drew Ruana reports on Insta that in just the last two weeks he has done three 8Cs (+) in Clear Creek Canyon (CO). He started off by repeating Daniel Woods' Everyting is Gniess 8C, after having projected it for around 15 sessions. Later he did the FAs of Maxwell’s Demon sit 8C+, as well as, Fox and the Hound sit 8C.

Paul Robinson, who has been synonymous with bouldering over the last two decades, took the above picture and says, ”He is so damn strong it’s insane. Never seen something like it before!”

In 2019, he was #8 in the World Championships. After failing to make it to the Olympics, the full-time chemical engineering student has chosen to focus on bouldering and has become arguably one of the best boulderers in the world. In total, he has done 100+ boulders 8B+ and harder including eight graded 8C+. Here's an interview 8a did with Drew a little while back, 8a interview..

Two weeks ago, Yannick Flohé made the FA of Return of the Dreamtime (8C+) in Cresciano. "Start like Dreamtime but go right after the Dyno and finish on Somnolence (8B)." This has been an open project for many years and links 8B/+ into 8B.

Loic Zehani has done Aubade Direct (9a+) in Sainte-Victoire, check out the video. The 21-year-old has now logged 60 routes 9a and harder with 22 being sent in just the last 12 months.

"Very nice route bolted by Christophe Daconcecao more than 20 years ago and first red pointed by Gérome Pouvreau in September 2010. An easy and fast intro sequence followed by a hard and physical first section. Then after a bad rest, you have a nice hard section, very fingery and demanding climbing followed by a stunning grey wall, typical "Sainte victoire". It took me 4 days in 2019 for the 8c+/9a version and 6 days more this year for the 9a+ version. This style of climb demanded a lot from me but I loved this route. 😍😍😍. So happy to climb this."

Giacomo Raimondi has done the second ascent of Christian Core’s Nim (8C) in Varazze, which was put up some 20 years ago. ”The send happened quite fast but I knew very well the first part of the boulder because it is common with my first 8B+.”

Do you know if there are more Core FA’s still unrepeated?
Last year, I did Bunjil (8B) and Majinbu (8B) which also were second ascents. There are still a lot of unrepeated boulders from Christian and I think that they are not so much repeated because some of them are really hard and not that cool and finding good condition it's really difficult.