Yannick Flohé, who last year became the first climber to flash an 8C boulder, has completed Excalibur (9b+) in Arco. In 2025, the 26-year-old German also sent a 9b and placed in the top 10 in all five of his Lead World Cups. (c) Crimp Films

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
With Excalibur I finished my second and last remaining lead project. In 2025 my goal was to send Raststaman Vibrations (9b) and Excalibur. Raststaman Vibrations I had already tried in 2024 and sent in August 2025. The first time I tried Excalibur was in March 2025 and I made promising links, already climbing to the last crux on my first try from the ground. The lower part suits me really well and I almost never fell before the heel move at the last crux.

However, the last two moves, especially the two finger pocket where I could barely fit my middle finger and index finger, fully crimped with a small spike to crimp my thumb on, were a real challenge, even as individual moves. This move was so low percentage for me that I fell at least twenty times. Without executing that move perfectly, the final move became impossible and I fell there at least twelve times as well.

Over the nineteen sessions I spent on this route, skin, patience, and conditions were the main factors. I had trips where I injured my skin on the first try and then had to rest for four days, only to open the same split again. The difference between resting and trying was not fun at all. On my final trip I planned one day on and three days off to make sure my skin was always in good shape.

It was a frustrating process, with high expectations early on and major setbacks along the way. In the end I almost did not care about sending anymore and just came back each time, giving two or three tries, then returning three days later. Eventually I stuck the last move by a very small margin and was almost surprised when I did.

What are the plans and ambitions for 2026?
For my next project I will choose a long route with comfortable holds 😅 Want to do some endurance 9b+. I guess I’ll do the lead World Cups in Europe and skip the rest of the circuit.

What about boulder plans?
I’m not sure, haven’t done any bouldering in a while and it feels pretty good to focus only on training and projects I really enjoy.

Adam Shahar completed Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) last month. ”ROTSW consists of some of the most amazing holds and move’s in RR. My psych on the line was first sparked watching Daniel battling it out for the FA. 3 years later I found myself on top of sleepwalker with a strong goal ahead. That was to do return. Return had been lingering in my mind the past year and this fall I came out to to Redrocks to give it some effort. I wasn’t very far off! With a bit more fitness I knew it would come soon. After a good break back home in NJ trying some other projects and clearing my head, I came back to redrocks last week to try and finish it off. After a new high point my first session back, I knew that it was a matter of time.”

Marcello Bombardi, with three 9a+’ under his belt, has done the first ascent of A pugni chiusi (9a) [with closed fists] in Valle dell'Orco. The name is in memory of the medal ceremony in Mexico in 1968, when Smith and Carlos raised clenched fists to the sky. (c) (c) Crimp Films

”An open project I had the pleasure of spending a lot of time on, composed of a tricky initial slab, a fairly comfortable ledge halfway up to rest for a moment, and a continuous climb on granite using small holds. During the first sessions on the route last year, I couldn’t solve some of the moves. This spring, with renewed energy, the key sequence felt easier and finally climbable, but the last two micro-holds on the final overhang still resisted me.
Those few final moves aren’t that hard individually, but some fatigue in the arms, softer skin from the previous holds, and a slightly tired core made these last steps extremely demanding in continuity. In autumn, things changed. Lower temperatures and harder skin made the difference, allowing me to fill the small gap and finally climb the route.

As usual, I was hesitant for a long time about which grade to propose. The route felt hard and demanding to me, as do many routes in the Orco Valley. Future repeaters will have their say.
P.S. It’s better attempted with tough skin.

“A pugni chiusi”: 
Like the fists you make to hold those tiny holds on the route.
 Like the symbolic gesture of protest, fists clenched and raised to the sky, by Tommie Smith and John Carlos during the medal ceremony at the 1968 Mexico City Olympics. In memory of those events and in honor of those who spoke up and acted for ideals of peace, democracy, and equality,
 in a world and society that today, unfortunately, seem to be regressing from those values.”

Amélie Kägi has during a week in Brione done five 8A’s and Salamandre (8A+) including as flash of Catatonica (8A). The 14-year-old won the Switzerland nationals in all three disciplines last year in U-17.

Can you tell us more about the trip and your highlights?
It was my first but definitely not my last trip to Brione! Right after Christmas we spent one week in this amazing bouldering spot in Ticino. The weather was quite cold but dry - so we could really enjoy many great boulders. Here are some highlights: Entwash (8A) is a great overhanging line which we attempted on our first day here. Many of our group sent it. One of the highlights for me was Salamandre. We went there in the evening, I did all the moves but then I was too tired to send it. The next day we were back - again in the evening. I had some very close goes but I was again too exhausted. Finally, on day 3, we came back in the morning and I did a quick ascent on this really cool pinch boulder. The next day we went to climb Catatonica - and I was very excited to flash my first 8A boulder! It’s beautiful and I really liked the crimpy holds of this problem.

Pamplemousse (8A) was another one of my favourite boulders on this trip. It is such a beautiful piece of rock with great moves. I was so happy to be here with such a nice crew, to have expierienced some of the classics here - and I can't wait to be back for more!

Ilias Hosain has done Traffic (8C) in The Scoop. ”I needed this one. Spent 9(?) sessions falling on the cross because my foot on kept picking, but the first time it stuck, I took it all the way. So fucking psyched.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I started trying Traffic in October of 2025, knowing right away it would suit my style. I’ve always liked longer power-endurance boulders, and after doing Muscle Car on the same boulder in 2024, it felt natural to invest some time into Traffic, especially since they share the same intro.

The crux for me revolved around maintaining tension on a really low foot before the foot cut. Nearly every attempt, that foot would pop, and I spent so many sessions falling on the same move. Eventually, I bought a new pair of shoes specifically for this climb and it made a huge difference. The first time I managed to keep my foot on, I took it all the way.

This line has loomed over me for the past few months, and I’m beyond psyched to finally wrap it up. Climbing 8C has been a dream of mine since I first started climbing, and it feels surreal to finally bring that dream to fruition.

What is your climbing background and what about 2026 plans?
I started climbing when I was 13 at Springs Climbing Center and joined their youth team shortly after starting. SCC was a huge part of my upbringing and completely shaped my view of climbing. I went on through competing in the youth circuit and eventually moved to Boulder, CO for school. Throughout college I was heavily involved with CU climbing team and was competing in the collegiate circuit. I since don’t compete anymore and instead have been focused soley on climbing outside the past 3 years. Outside of my own climbing, I have coached for the past 10 years, coaching at SCC and ABC kids climbing. I now work as a routesetter and am right where I want to be! In 2026, I am so excited for lincoln lake to open back up and to spend some time in the alpine wrapping up some other long term projects! I don’t have any trips planned right now but am hoping to finally make my way down to Hueco sometime this year.

Alison Ke has completed Authentic Battle Damage (8A+) at Eagle Rock. The 30-year-old data scientist has published a great sending video on her Instagram. ”This means so much to me!! A life goal achieved. It suited me perfectly. I also think it is the FFA.” (c) Aaron Burns

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I first climbed the stand start to Authentic Battle Damage two years ago. Since then, I have specialized more in sloper and compression style climbing. I recently returned to try the lower start as a potential first 8A+, which I had set as a personal goal. I was surprised to fall at the top-out on my very first session, but it still took two more sessions to send it. The boulder suited my strengths perfectly: narrow compression, technical heel hooks, and very slopey holds. With my 153 cm wingspan, the compression felt manageable rather than extremely narrow. I’m grateful to reach this milestone after years of steadily building my pyramid, and I’m proud to see that process pay off.

Any plans for 2026?
In 2026 I plan to take trips to Bishop and Tahoe, returning to where I originally learned how to climb. I also hope to spend the summer projecting climbs at Lincoln Lake in Colorado, which is where I live now.

William Bosi, with five 9A’s under his belt, has after three trips to Portugal done the first ascent of Pôr do Sol (8C+) in Sintra. (c) Teresa Coimbra

”This boulder has to be one of my top three all-time favourites! Firstly, the boulder looks so big and blank. The fact that there is just the perfect amount of features to make it work is really surprising. Then, the sequence is just insane... lots of unique moves leading to the crazy ‘comp-style’ double clutch crux move. The only downside was how sharp the holds are, which meant my sessions all had to be quite short. Every session trying this bloc along with my good friend Chris was incredibly enjoyable and really memorable.

Grading is always hard, but this line felt considerably harder than any of the other lines I’ve done in Portugal or of similar style lines elsewhere. So 8C+ seems right to me. However, the unique style of moves and low angle definitely makes it hard to grade this one!

This year I really want to focus on Silence (9c) so I will be trying to get back to Flatanger as soon as the season starts. Therefore, I’ll be mostly focusing on training and local Scottish projects until then. However, if possible, I would love to take another trip to try Terranova (in Moravsky Kras, Czechia).”

Cy McIntosh, who did his first four 9a’s last year, has sent Death of Villains (9a+) in Hurricave.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I was doing a short trip to Vegas for new years and stopped at the Hurricave for a day. I ended up getting super psyched on DOV and decided to devote my time to that route instead. Happy it paid off.

Eva Hammelmüller, who sent 15 routes 8c+ or 9a in 2025, has done Anchorage (8c+) in Terminal. The 25-year-old Austrian is runner up in the female ranking after Laura Rogora. (c) Felix Mast

”Took me a bit of time and creativity to find my way through this huge steep prow of slopers, yet I enjoyed the process a lot! Anchorage is that kind of route that gets even better with each attempt. So happy that I could finish it off with a huge fight on the last go of the second day of trying it! such a unique, cool route!

Simone Tentori, who sent his first 8C+ last year and did three 8C’s in December, has completed Deep Fake (8C+) in Brione. ”All moves in the first session but then very slow progress with no/very little improvement day after day. Unexpected ascent on my 10th? session. It felt very hard to suggest a difficulty but felt harder than the 8C's I ve done in the previous months.” (c) Martin Svec

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
After my recent sends, I didn't feel the need to chase anything else. My time in Ticino was close to an end and my mind was already drifting toward the upcoming trip to the US with Siara Fabbri. I felt satisfied and ready to take a little brake from hard projects.

In between packing and seeing friends I had one last half day in Brione and I was not sure what to do. In the end I thought 'fuck it, let's go to Deep, worst case it's good training'

I already had 10ish sessions on it, but I wasn't feeling close at all. During our very first sesh, Jek Raimondi and I could solve all the moves, but then we got stuck, with so many days similar to each other. We kept repeating moves but we could not manage the needed links to start thinking about proper send goes. Unfortunately Jek couldn't join me on Saturday, but when I showed up at the roof I had the pleasant surprise of seeing again Martin Svec (after almost 7 years!) and meeting Jana Svecova for the first time. Very good vibes, psyched to try hard and zero press.