Yannick Flohé climbs Excalibur (9b+)

Yannick Flohé, who last year became the first climber to flash an 8C boulder, has completed Excalibur (9b+) in Arco. In 2025, the 26-year-old German also sent a 9b and placed in the top 10 in all five of his Lead World Cups. (c) Crimp Films

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
With Excalibur I finished my second and last remaining lead project. In 2025 my goal was to send Raststaman Vibrations (9b) and Excalibur. Raststaman Vibrations I had already tried in 2024 and sent in August 2025. The first time I tried Excalibur was in March 2025 and I made promising links, already climbing to the last crux on my first try from the ground. The lower part suits me really well and I almost never fell before the heel move at the last crux.

However, the last two moves, especially the two finger pocket where I could barely fit my middle finger and index finger, fully crimped with a small spike to crimp my thumb on, were a real challenge, even as individual moves. This move was so low percentage for me that I fell at least twenty times. Without executing that move perfectly, the final move became impossible and I fell there at least twelve times as well.

Over the nineteen sessions I spent on this route, skin, patience, and conditions were the main factors. I had trips where I injured my skin on the first try and then had to rest for four days, only to open the same split again. The difference between resting and trying was not fun at all. On my final trip I planned one day on and three days off to make sure my skin was always in good shape.

It was a frustrating process, with high expectations early on and major setbacks along the way. In the end I almost did not care about sending anymore and just came back each time, giving two or three tries, then returning three days later. Eventually I stuck the last move by a very small margin and was almost surprised when I did.

What are the plans and ambitions for 2026?
For my next project I will choose a long route with comfortable holds 😅 Want to do some endurance 9b+. I guess I’ll do the lead World Cups in Europe and skip the rest of the circuit.

What about boulder plans?
I’m not sure, haven’t done any bouldering in a while and it feels pretty good to focus only on training and projects I really enjoy.