William Bosi made the first ascent of Pôr do Sol (8C+) two weeks ago. ”This boulder has to be one of my top three all-time favourites! Firstly, the boulder looks so big and blank. The fact that there is just the perfect amount of features to make it work is really surprising. Then, the sequence is just insane... lots of unique moves leading to the crazy ‘comp-style’ double clutch crux move.”

Lorenzo Bogliacino, with six 9a+’ under his belt, has during a trip to Santa Linya sent Direct into your Fabelita (9a) and Fabela pa la enmienda (9a). (c) Marta Palou

Can you tell us more about the the trip and the 9a’s?
I usually prefer to use the winter season for training. I’ve always struggled with climbing in winter—way too hot! Jokes aside, I really have a hard time climbing in the sun, and the extreme day-to-day changes in conditions have never made me love this season.

This year, I took advantage of the fact that I worked during the December holidays and therefore had a few days off in January (free time is more important than money!) and decided to challenge myself!

Even though the rock at Santa Linya isn’t among the best around, the routes are really fun and the kind of effort they require is one of my favorites. I obviously jumped straight onto the famous “Fabela pa la enmienda”, and after struggling a bit with the first pitch, I found myself battling through the entire route in a long 1 hour and 15 minute attempt, like I usually do.

Afterwards, I decided to try something shorter, and with a few tricky kneebars I managed to unlock the hard entry of “Direct into your fabelita”, which isn’t exactly my style! Unfortunately, bad weather arrived, the crag truly turned into a waterfall and we weren’t able to finish the final projects we had started. Still, I’m super happy to have climbed routes of this level in this season and right at the beginning of the year!

There will be six Boulder and six Lead World Cups in the 2026 season. As usual, Boulder events will take place mainly in the first half of the year, with Lead competitions following in the autumn. However, unlike previous seasons, the calendar includes one Lead event in the spring and one Boulder competition in the autumn.

1-3/5 Boulder Keqiao - China
8-10/5 Lead Wujiang - China
22-24/5 Boulder Bern - Switzerland
28-31/5 Boulder Madrid - Spain
3-7/6 Boulder & Lead Prague - Czechia
17-21/6 Boulder & Lead Innsbruck - Austria
10-12/7 Lead Chamonix - France
18-25/7 World Youth Championships Arco - Italy
4-5/9 Lead Koper - Slovenia
16-18/10 Boulder Salt Lake City - USA
23-25/10 Lead Santiago - Chile

Stefan Hochbaum, who last year did an 8C+ FA, has opened Mind Flayer (8C) in Scharfenstein.

Can you tell us more about the first ascent?
Two years ago, when I was working on my main project Obsidian (8C+), I checked out the cave after my session. Back then, there was only Zugzwang (7C+) and the lower start of it, called The Cypher (8B+). I wanted to try The Cypher because I needed a break from my main project.

Two sessions later, I was able to send it and noticed that there was another possible line, still undone, going directly through the roof. It shares the first three moves of The Cypher (which are around 8B) but then goes right instead of into the V10 Zugzwang. At that time, I only had Obsidian on my mind, so I never got back to the cave and somehow forgot about this project. Two years later, after sending Obsidian, I remembered there was still a line waiting for a first ascent. So I decided to give this climb a chance. After some intense beta searching, I solved all the moves and started trying it from the ground. Three sessions later, I sent the new project and named it "Mind Flayer."

Overall, it’s a V13 starting sequence into a tricky and hard V12, making it a V15 boulder to me. The first three moves are really powerful with lots of compression. The middle and upper parts focus more on body tension and keeping everything together. You can still fall on the last move to the jug if the heel slips, so it’s quite an interesting boulder.

What is your climbing background and what’s next?
I climb and train 4–5 times a week and have been climbing for 16 years. I started with competitions many years ago but decided that I enjoy rock climbing more, so I shifted my full focus to climbing outdoors. Besides repeating problems, I really enjoy making first ascents and searching for new lines—it’s very inspiring to me.

My next plan is to go back to Ticino in the spring to look for a new project or try some lines I’ve never attempted before.

Sophia Hoermann, who last year sent her first seven 8A’s and two 8A+’, has done A Maze of Death (8A+) in Bishop (CA). The 21-year-old competed actively until two years ago being ”properly burnt out” and has since focused mainly on outdoors.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I grew up climbing at least once a year in Bishop so this place is nostalgically beautiful to me. I didn’t actually hear about A Maze of Death until relatively recently, as I never considered trying anything that hard until the last year or so. I ended up having a pretty quick process on Maze beginning with a solo sesh where I tried out some beta. It felt to me that I just needed a stiffer shoe for the glassy edge feet to help me bring some weight off my hands. Sure enough, I came back the next weekend with new shoes, which helped a lot with the crux moves that were feeling really finicky last sesh.

After doing all the moves in isolation, I took a break in the sun with my friends. When I started trying again, things were feeling off and I was regressing. I sat in front of a fan for a while and decided that I would just put my heart into the next attempt. That go felt much better in every way and I was able to get through my redpoint crux and not struggle too much on the rest. Topped out through a little snow and summited all the way up the spine to get an awesome view of the mountains. Epiced a little postholing through snow on the down climb which made it an overall very special experience. Thank you to James, Jack, and Ryan for all the support and psych!

Manon Hily, who last year sent both her first 9a as well as 9a+, has done Joe Blau (8c+) in Oliana. ”Super cool! Especially the second part on the black rock. Demanding route at the start and really sustained!!! Not easy.”

The 31-year-old finished 13th at the World Championships last September, and her lowest placing across four World Cup events in 2025 was 12th. Two years earlier, she reached the podium in Briançon, and in 2022 the qualified nurse claimed bronze at the European Championships.

Tyler Thompson, who last year did five 9a’s and one 9a+, has repeated Jonathan Siegrist’s One Hundred Proof (9a) and Smoke Wagon (9a) in Mount Potosi. The 23-year-old logs the latter with a personal grade and comments, ”Ultimately knees bring down the intensity of this route just enough for it to be more in the 8c+/9a range or just hard 8c+ IMO. (c) James Lucas

Can you tell us more about these ascents?
Clear light [main sector in Mt Potasi] is pretty ideal for winter climbing. Getting back to Vegas from some holiday travels, I tried Smoke Wagon. That route suited me super well and I was able to do it in 3 days. I jumped straight on Hundred Proof, which involves a harder and longer start before going all of the difficulty of SW. On my first day trying that version I came super close and sent my first try the next climbing day. I used a few marginal kneebars throughout both routes which weren’t used during the FA from Jonathan. None of them are particularly good but they enhance key rests and ultimately bring down the intensity of the pure endurance style.

What is coming up next?
My plans coming up are to focus on training and local projects while I finish up my seasonal job, installing and now taking down Christmas lights around Vegas. In February I am going to Siurana for a bit and then will spend April and May up at Clark!

Noah Wheeler, who last year sent two 9A’s, has done the first ascent of Jorōgumo (8C) in Haycock. ”Proudest FA. Always thought this climb was legitimately impossible until I came back this year with a honed body and mind. Has the sort of holds you would imagine VHards must have had when you were a kid.”

Can you tell us more about the first ascent?
The climb is a sit to a 1-move V10 called Orb Weaver. I remember when I first did the stand, 5 years ago (when I first started climbing outside), thinking the sit was impossible. There are just very few feet and the crimps are incredibly small and flat. I came back this year in November cognizant of my improvements over the years but still skeptical as to whether the climb was possible. In a matter of 2 or 3 sessions I was eventually able to unlock the crux move (which unlocked the climb), encompassing of a disgusting full-crimp on a tiny right hand. Vital to my process on this boulder was my taping beta. I discovered that if I did not pretape my right pointer finger, it would split in one go. Regardless, I only had a few tries on the climb per day before it destroyed my skin. I sent on my first session back in PA in January (While back home for the holidays).

Southeastern Pennsylvania crags largely consist of Diabase rock, which is a grainy but bullet rock type that generally creates tiny flat features on relatively vertical surfaces. This climb is a perfect demonstration of the diabase style, and its very cool and personally significant to climb this style at a higher difficulty level.

Melina Costanza has done Iron Resolution (8B) in Barker Dam. ”I know some people have been calling it 12 [8A+] recently but it honestly felt harder than any other 13 I’ve done so I’m taking it. But maybe that’s just cause I’m a shorty so I have to dyno to the crimp.”

In September, the 26-year-old won bronze at the World Championship, marking her first IFSC Boulder competition since 2022, when her best finish was 21st. Last year, she also did her second 8B+ and she is number four in the female ranking game.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I went out to Joshua tree to compete in the rock rumble royale competition and stuck around a couple days afterward to get on this classic line. I ended up having to jump for a crimp pretty high up and took a couple gnarly falls from up high before the send go. One of the coolest boulders I’ve done