Tyler Thompson does La Reina Mora (9a)

Tyler Thompson, who last month sent La Rambla (9a+), has completed La Reina Mora (9a) in Siurana. Noteworthy is that FA Ramon Julian suggested 8c but since then almost everyone has called it a 9a. (c) Esteban Lahoz

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
After doing La Rambla I knew I wanted to try the obvious line that follows the crack the entire way. I started trying “La Reina Mora” and found it much more pumpy and continuous, as opposed to the restful and bouldery style of La Rambla. After a few days I was having good tries but a foot slip during some poor conditions while I was reaching a jam in the crack ruined the skin on my left hand and forced me to take nearly a week away from the route.

After I could try again the conditions were quite bad. I had some promising tries falling in the last few moves before the slab but a week of rain left the route soaked for more than 10 days. That time provided some much needed rest and I came back ready. On the first day with great conditions following the storm the route was still dripping with water. I waited all day while the sun dried the route and, just as the shadow completely covered the wall, sent with a great fight!

I might also add that just a few minutes after I came down the route was dripping with water after the sun was no longer on the wall!

Do you know the reason for the upgrade?
Ramon was known for sandbagging so I wouldn’t be surprised if it was originally 8c+ but at least one important hold broke in the redpoint crux and I believe some other minor holds have broken a bit. I never tried the route in it’s original state but it certainly compares to other 9a I’ve climbed.

What is next?
Hoping to try Era Vella a bit but I developed a bit of an a2 injury while sending so I’m trying to rest up and come back to Vegas recovered.