Dohyun Lee from Korea, #7 overall last year, got his first World Cup victory by winning in Prague, needing only five attempts to do all four boulders. The runner-up was Adam Ondra (CZE) who used 13 attempts for all problems competing in front of his home crowd. Mejdi Schalck (FRA), who won the first two events this spring, got the bronze flashing three boulders. Interestingly all six finalists represent different countries. The fourth spot was claimed by Yoshiyuki Ogata (JPN), followed by Yannick Flohé (GER) and Jan-Luca Posch (AUT). Complete results (c) Jan Virt/IFSC Ondra commented to IFSC: "It’s been so nice to be back on the circuit, especially in my home country. It’s been 13 years since the last World Cup event in Czechia, and the only one I participated in was in my hometown of Brno, when I was 16 and I barely missed the final, it was so frustrating, so this is a good revenge!"

Lilli Kiesgen, who last year sent her first three 8A+'s, has over two days in Zillertal managed to send five 8A's; Clockwork Orange (8A), Analdin und die Wunderschlampe (8A), , and . The 26-year-old is a former competition climber who was #9 in the World Championship in 2016.

Can you tell us more about the five 8A ascents?
We spent two days in Zillertal on our way from Innsbruck to Prague. I’m just on vacation in Prague and cheering for Yannick ☺️. The day didn’t start that well, we parked the van in the wrong parking spot and were pretty lost for an hour. When we finally reached the crag I started to warm up directly in the moves of Clockwork Orange. Surprisingly they didn’t feel hard and I could climb the boulder on my second try from the bottom. Afterwards, we went to Analdin - a real gem in the Forest! The holds and the line is just perfect. It took a bit until I figured out the moves around the sloper in the middle section, but I was still able to climb the boulder within an hour.

We were tired of walking around (and climbing!) so we did a break, cooked some tortellini and napped a bit. In the afternoon I just wanted to take a look at mother firestarter. I got hooked and climbed it after a really short warmup. I think two essential things got together yesterday, I was in the right mood and the conditions were good - not too warm and not too cold.

True romance is right beside the river and has mainly crimps. I figured out a beta with a toe hook so I don’t have to do the powerful extension move. Jam Session is a roof with some heel hook moves and a crimpy top out. The main crux was for me the far move with a bad foot over the edge. None of the boulders I did took long- I think that is essential if you want to climb a lot in a day.

Why do you think you are in such excellent shape?
I think my fitness increased so much because I started to train my weaknesses - steep walls with far moves on good or slopy holds. In the last year, I mostly trained on spray walls and on the Kilterboard and I think that is paying off now.

Janja Garnbret, who missed the first three Boulder World Cups in 2023 due to a broken toe, was the only female to top all five qualification boulders in Prague. Garnbret commented to IFSC: ”I didn’t feel like I just came back from an eight-month break. I couldn’t stop smiling all the time, because I felt very comfortable on the mats, I felt myself. It was incredible!”

The other group was won by Futabo Ito. Noteworthy is that five of the Top-7 ranked after three events did not participate; Brooke Raboutou, Natalia Grossman, Anon Matsufuji, Hannah Meul and Anastasia Sanders. Complete results

Ritsu Kayotani from Japan, who last year became the Boulder Youth Champion, was the only competitor to top the five qualification boulders in Prague. The other group was won by Mickael Mawem. Adam Ondra was #13 in his first IFSC competition for two years and commented to IFSC. "I definitely felt the pressure and I’m going to need the crowd behind me tomorrow, in the semi-final round. My goal is to be at the top of my shape in Bern, at the World Championships. That’s the most important goal of the season for me."

The big names that did not make it to the semi were; #23 Alex Megos, Sean Bailey and #27 Jakob Schubert Complete results

Matty Hong has sent Biographie (9a+) in Céüse. This was the 19th ascent of Chris Sharma's iconic route from 2001 which was bolted by Jean-Christophe Lafaille in 1989. (c) Alex Aristei

”I first tried the route in 2017 with Margo Hayes and Daniel Woods. We all tried Biographie together for about a month but were unsuccessful. Falling after the crux on my last day made it hard to leave but the season was clearly over. Since then I’ve been dreaming of trying the route again. I planned a trip with a friend from the States to climb in Spain. When we arrived it was too hot so we came to Céüce. I’ve been here about 4 weeks now trying Biographie. It has been a challenging season with a lot of rain but I knew I didn’t want to leave again without completing the route.

I was very strategic this time with my attempts, I learned a lot in 2017 and felt l had to take a new approach. Balancing skin, fatigue, and weather is one of the biggest challenges of climbing here. Sometimes everything can be perfect except for a small cut on the finger which stops any attempt. This year I really enjoyed the process climbing on the route and when I finally did it, it was a surreal moment for me. Something I’ve dreamt about since I was a young climber and certainly since my trip in 2017.”

How did you prepare for the Euro trip?
Most of my training came from bouldering the past few months and then the time I spent learning the route this season. I didn’t prepare specifically for the route as I thought I would be climbing in Spain.

How did you warm up before the redpoint attempts?
Typically as a warm up I would start on a hand board, this gets my fingers ready without compromising the skin. I would then go up Biographie to brush the holds and get reacquainted with the movements. I find warming up on my project useful as it gives me a good idea of how I am feeling that day. Typically I could give two good tries per day, following the 2 on 1 off schedule. Although weather quickly because of the determinant for our schedule.

How come you think Biographie has become such an iconic route?
This route is not only iconic for its history but also for its notorious difficulty. Despite 15a [9a+] being a commonly climbed grade these days this route has certainly challenged some of the best climbers. I believe the route also presents a unique balance of difficulty which requires bouldering strength, endurance and a strong mind. These aspects all together make the route so amazing.

What's next?
I have another few days here and I’ve begun trying , the moves feel good and I’m excited to return.

Sam Weir reports on Insta that he has done Foundations Edge (8C) in Bas-Valais. Here is the video.The 32-year-old started climbing in 2012 and within a year he did his first 8A. In total, he has now sent seven 8C’s.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I worked the boulder a lot in 2021 and got really close to doing it but then winter came and was always mentally tired for the last hard move. Must have fallen there 20 times... In 2022 my life got busy with work and moving and I lost motivation for a while only climbing outside a handful times but incorporated some light weight lifting to my normal training (hangboarding and board climbing). The training worked and I managed to send the boulder third try this year first session back. It was really cool to see that year of just basic training paid off. It has been a good 2023 so far. What's next? I am trying Fuck the System 8c+ and would like to do Gioia 8C+ without the kneebar. 2 big goals should keep me busy for a while:)

Silvio Reffo, who has already ticked 16 routes 9a and harder, has made the FA of Super Pit (9a) in Covolo.

"I bolted this route last autumn, but with the arrival of winter it was too cold to climb to in Covolo. Last month after climbing Trofeo dell'Adriatico (9a+), I went back to try Super Pit. It is a route of 40 movements of power endurance, in fact, in the last few weeks I was falling on the last hold 5-6 times. It’s amazing how this crag still offers many extreme routes. I still have several projects from 9a to 9b that I would like to try in the next season."

Eva Hammelmüller, who last year won a Euro Boulder Cup and this year has sent two 8c+’, has done Moria (8c) in Ötztal. (c) Felix Mast

What's the lowdown on this route and your send?
The send of this technical as well as powerful route was very unexpected! After checking out the moves and trying to dry two holds, I just gave it a try, everything worked out perfectly, and I found myself on top of the route! As there are two other classic routes next to Moria, this line doesn’t get too much attention, yet (if you like tiny holds and some weird moves). It is incredible to climb!

What’s coming up next?
Right now, I am preparing for the Lead World Cup in Innsbruck and after that, it will be decided whether I’ll compete at the next WCs, too. Thus, I focus mainly on climbing indoors at the moment, but every two weeks or sometimes once a week, I like to go outside.

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