Adam Ondra and Janja Garnbret won the qualification in Villars. Among the men, Japan had six among the Top-10 and the biggest sensation was that Alberto Gines Lopez was #54. Garnbret topped both routes and the only favourite missing out the Top-26 semi was Miho Nonaka #37.

Ryuichi Murai started his trip to Rocklands by doing Book Club (8B+) and followed by Monkey Wedding (8C). On Insta He says of the Fred Nicole classic, "Climbing for 6 days without rest days because African life is too fun. Yesterday, I managed to send one of the main goals of this tour. Seven years ago I couldn't do the full reach crux at all, but this time it felt easy." (c) Nari Tomo

The 29-year-old was #5 in a World Cup in 2018 and stopped his competition career one year later. Since then he has done five 8C+, out of which three FAs.

Martina Demmel, #43 in the Villars World Cup yesterday, has last week sent One Piece (8c) in Frankenjura. "Totally enjoyed the crux sequence on this one which demanded a lot of tension & precision! 2 more tries after "Akira"! Felt like a very first of its grade;) now after my recent injury."

How did you break your wrist and how long time ago did you remove the cast?
2,5 months ago now😉. I was falling pretty high up and there was a lot of rope-drag why I hit the wall pretty hard (probably I was belayed a bit too hard as well) and it took 20 days to find out that it's broken and in total 4 months without using this hand at all, so I'm pretty surprised and relieved how well I can move on the wall already again😁💃📈

What are your summer plans?
I'm already nominated for the next 2 WC's in Chamonix and Briançon and then I hope to be able to go World Champs in early August but this depends on how the comps are going now... after that I'm planning to go to Switzerland and France (probably La Ramirole and a few other crags I wanted to check out for years already😁) for a few weeks of rock before the next comps and before police school starts again🌞🏔💃

Vojta Trojan sent his dream route Action Directe (9a) in May, which he commented on 8a. "Action Directe is definitely a route I always wanted to do. It’s an amazing feeling to tick off something from the life goals down. Even if it’s just another 9a - but with this one it’s a bit different." Now his video is released with more beta details.

Nina Caprez, who became a mother less than one year ago, is known for being one of the best female multi-discipline climbers in the world. The 36-year-old has twice been Top-8 in the Boulder World Cup but she is most famous for all her hard multi-pitch ascents. Last week she did the 300-meter Yeah Man (8b+) in Gastlosen and her partner was her au pair Pauline Maheo. (c) Jeremy Bernard

"To be honest, it took me a bit of courage to go to the Gastlosen. I had done my first multipitch for a year in May with Lynn Hill, and I had a lot of troubles. So I asked myself if it was a good idea to take on this project. But in the end, my partner Jérémy pushed me a bit and I must say that it went extremely well. As soon as we arrived in Jaun I felt that I was in the right place. I loved taking the “lead” for this project, accompanied by my au pair Pauline, and supported by Lia and Jérémy on the ground in the van." Full interview in Fanatic Climbing

Tyler Thompson, who did his first 9a+ in February, did Joe Kinder’s Life of Villains (9a) in Hurricave, two weeks ago. Here is the 8a news article. In the video, we can see him doing a crazy knee drop [6.03 min].

Thomas Salakenos has done Foundations Edge (8C) in Fionnay. This was the first 8C for the 29-year-old who the last two weeks has been in Magic Wood where he did three 8B's and his second 8B+. (c) Samuel Weir

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
On my way home [from Magic Wood] I made a quick stop at Fionnay. So Friday evening, after 6 hours of driving, I had my 1st Sess in Fundation’s Edge, a boulder I had my eyes on for a long 👀 I knew the boulder from videos and with few adjustments, I needed 50 minutes of an intense session to unlock everything. The wall is steep and moves are powerful, so I was done for that day, already empty. I filmed the whole Sess, so I could visualise everything again.

On Saturday, I took a long time to warm-up, touching holds, a few pull-ups and mobilisation on the pads. I did a few moves, not the hardest ones, and immediately felt that I could do it that day. The pressure was on. I knew it would come down to small details, about not wasting energy, keeping my head cool, and also a touch of luck. After a really close call on my 2nd go, it all came together on my 6th go from the ground. The final part of the boulder is high but easy on jugs so I enjoyed every moment of it. All in all, 2 sessions (each around ~ 1 hour) in <24h were enough to climb my hardest boulder yet 😳 Crazy! I was amazed by Fionnay and really look forward to going back.

How can you explain being in peak performance?
I trained more, with higher intensity. For 1.5 months I’ve had a way better life health. But the biggest change is my way to face the problems. I think way more about what matters, the small details, and strategic choices at the boulder. I film every try and try to analyse the betas and movements. More focus etc… Also, I did a big specific preparation, heavy pull-ups, finger lifting etc. A lot of board training lately, Moon, Kilter and a very hard taped project on the spray wall. I’m way more organised than before on my trip, trying to do few lower grades which I really want to do to keep psyched between sessions in harder projects, otherwise, you just fail! Also, I feel in really good shape but not way more than usual, I would just say that this trip has been very successful, so more confidence and a positive circle, confidence boost etc.

Sera Gearhart has done Carnage (8B) in Guanella Pass, after trying it for just two sessions. Since 2022 she has done six 8A+'s and this was her first 8B but she has logged this also as an 8A+.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and why you called it 8A+?
Carnage is a really cool boulder! I don't know much of the history of beta, but based on 8a comments it appears there was a beta break of some sort after the initial ascent. I watched a lot of videos and I'm really not sure that I did anything differently than the folks that have called this 8B. To me, it felt about the same as other 8A+ [boulders] I have climbed. I may reevaluate when I have more experience, but for now 8A+ seems right to me.

The important thing is I had a really fun time climbing it, and I got to take the morning off of work to send!! I got really lucky with windy conditions since it's typically too hot for Guanella this time of year 😊

Could you see yourself working on an 8B+? What do you have your sights set on now?
I still need to do Evil Backwards (8B) and then I'll try some other things! Summer isn't very good here so likely a slow couple of months from here.

Michaela Kiersch sent wovenhand (8B) in May and here is the 8a news report.

Mathieu Bouyoud has done the FA of Bio sharma graphie L1+2 (9a) in Rocher de Beverau after trying it over a dozen sessions. The 33-year-old has done 36 routes 9a and harder, out of which five in the last 12 months. Including also eleven onsights 8b or 8b+, he is having his best year ever and he is #4 in the 8a ranking game.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Bio sharma graphie is a very nice route bolted by David Laurent. My main project this year. Happy to send it! It is a new crag near Chambéry. A big 40° overhanging with nice hard routes and projects.