NEWS

Marco Mรผller ticks Story of Three Worlds (8C+)
Marco Mรผller, who last year sent his second 9a+, has repeated Shawn Raboutouโ€™s Story of Three Worlds (8C+) in Cresciano. It is a left stand start, including a possible no-hands rest, to the classical The Dagger (8B+). โ€Around nine hand moves and a bit more foot moves until youโ€™re in the Dagger with my beta. Breakdown for me is: 8B boulder into the rest, then 8A boulder and then Dagger.โ€ (c) Vivienne Augustin

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the sessions needed?
I started trying Story of Three Worlds at the beginning of January. The downward dyno is one of the most unique moves on rock Iโ€™ve ever tried! It felt surprisingly good and suited me well. The opening boulder, however, gave me trouble for quite some time. Itโ€™s a powerful, tensiony section on underclings with bad footholds. Once I figured out my own beta, I started making some good links. Thereโ€™s a good kneebar rest in the middle of the boulder. I underestimated the core fatigue, despite the rest, and fell a couple of times in the final section โ€œThe Dagger.โ€ Last weekend, I finally made it through the whole boulder with a proper fight.

Iโ€˜ve tried it for like 1-2 a week since the beginning of January, and then lots of sessions on Story of Two Worlds and Dagger a couple of years ago.

What is next?
I was actually projecting Captain Nemo (8C) in Val Bavona, but when the weather turned bad, I switched to โ€œStory of Three Worldsโ€. It immediately got me hooked. I was hoping to get back on Nemo again soon.

Laura Rogora does Niobe (9a) slab
Laura Rogora has repeated Adam Ondraโ€™s Niobe in Arco, sending the route in just four attempts. The 24-year-old Italian now boasts 42 ascents graded 9a and harder, more than a dozen of which she completed in 2025 alone. In 2025, she also onsighted seven routes graded 8c and 8c+, giving her an onsight rรฉsumรฉ stronger than that of any male climber. To cap off a standout season, Rogora claimed bronze at the Lead World Cup and was named Vertical-Lifeโ€™s Climber of the Year 2025. (c) Andrea Camattari

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the beta you used?
I had watched Adamโ€™s video, but not to check the betas. Basically, before starting I only knew that after the first chain there was a palm-move boulder. On my first go, I climbed the first pitch of 8a+/b and figured out the betas for the upper section. I think the first boulder suits my body measurements quite well, while the upper part is a bit more morpho, although Iโ€™m not sure whether I used the same betas as the other repeaters.

Grossman/Raboutou and Hoyer/Duffy US Champs
In the US National Championship last weekend in Orlando, Natalia Grossman and Hugo Hoyer won in Boulder. In Lead, the winners were Brooke Raboutou and Colin Duffy. Interestingly, Chris Sharma (45) participated in Lead and was 24th after being 16th in the qualification. Here is the World Climbing article and Complete results.

Eva Hammelmรผller does WRC (9a)
Eva Hammelmรผller, who last year sent 15 routes 8c+ or 9a, has done WRC (9a) in Castillon, which is an 8a+ extension to Alien carnage (8c+). On the same day she also flashed BarjoLand (8b): โ€Technically a flash because I belayed Felix in it yesterday, but felt more like an onsight :D didnโ€™t know any of the holds and took me forever to understand the betaโ€ฆ so happy that I kept fighting until the anchor!โ€ (c) Felix Mast

Can you tell us more about the process behind sending WRC?
January was mostly about surving uni, work, and intense training sessions, and I was so happy that I got to climb outside again! I focused mainly on power training during the last couple of weeks, so my endurance on the first day in Alien Carnage felt terrible. However, I got back into lead climbing pretty quickly and managed to send it on the next day! As we quite spontaneously decided to climb another day in Castillon, I was curious and checked out WRC - and fell three times at the very topโ€ฆ I thought I had to abandon the route, but a change in our plans allowed me to give it another try on my 4th day of climbing. Having no expectations, I found myself on top of this amazing climb! Somehow I also half-flashed, half-onsighted BarjoLand (8b) and sent Total Jobard (8b+) afterwards. Sometimes the best days are the ones you donโ€™t expect at all. Maybe Friday the 13th is my new lucky day?

What is your plan for the spring?
My plans for spring are mainly to train hard and climb outside on weekends. I have a few projects around home that Iโ€™d like to focus on, but I havenโ€™t planned a bigger trip in the near future.

Julia Fiser climbs Fish Eye (8c)
Julia Fiser, who last year sent her first 8c+, has sent Fish eye (8c) in Oliana. The 28-year-old has been an active international competition climber for 14 years and her best result is ninth in her hometown Innsbruck in 2024. (c) Toni Mas Buchaca

Can you tell us more about the ascent and your trip?
10 years ago I went on my first rock climbing trip to Oliana with a bunch of (international) friends. I was in awe of Fish Eye back then, but I wasn't brave enough to actually give it a go. To be fair, I didn't have much rock experience back then. I always wanted to return to Oliana, but it took me 10 years to come back! This time, I consciously decided to go on a solo trip, because my head was full of questions and I wanted some time away from home to think about these. So when I got here, I just had to try Fish Eye, for my younger self. I figured out the moves quickly, but there has been lots of rain here in Catalunya recently, so finding decent conditions was harder than I expected.

Finally, on my penultimate day, we got lots of strong wind which dried up the route enough to have a chance. I did it on my warmup go, more or less fully in control. A couple of days before, I completed another life goal of mine: climbing 100 routes 8a or harder.

On my last day here, it actually started snowing and it would've been impossible to climb. So I guess my timing was perfect! Besides achieving those two things my younger self dreamed of, I came back home with answers to questions I didn't even know I was asking myself. And that actually matters more than any route ever could :) I want to thank the whole Oliana family for welcoming me so warmly, and for all the belays, advice and good conversations!

Connor Herson FAโ€™s Drifterโ€™s Escape (9a+)
Connor Herson has made the first ascent of Drifterโ€™s Escape (9a+) in Squamish, which is the fifth pitch of an old aid route, including two initial bolts protecting easier terrain from a potential death fall. The 20 meter crack was protected mainly with cams 0.2 or smaller and Connor needed around 20 sessions over two seasons to take it down. The majority of climbing is an 8a crack with follows and finishes with 8A boulder cruxes. There are previous four trad routes considered 9a; Bon Voyage, Tribe, Crown Royale and The best things in life are free (also mixed with two bolts).

โ€The bolts were already there when I started trying the pitch, and Iโ€™m not one to chop bolts or take unnecessary risksโ€”the idea of skipping or removing them didnโ€™t even cross my mind. I donโ€™t want to make a pedantic argument of what constitutes โ€œtrad.โ€ Iโ€™m not claiming a โ€œtradโ€ ascent, and the grade is just a proposal. I know a lot of the media will focus on trying to compare this with other ascents in terms of difficulty, style, and the like. To me, it was just a very fun project up an incredible piece of rock. It was a privilege to climb on it.โ€

Herson made his first 8a headline in 2018 when he did an 8c+, 2nd go at age 14. In the same year, he repeated The Nose 8b+ MP; and was #11 in the Youth World Championship. (c) Christian Adam for Black Diamond

How was it behind the lins seeing Connor fighting hard up there?
Stressful most of the time haha. A few big whips at the last crux, but you could really fall at any point. The last one is the biggest, you place a bomber .4 and have to do the crux then a non trivial mantel. If you blew it on the mantel it would be more then a 12 meter whip. He did it on the last day before a big heat wave came in and you could tell he wasnโ€™t going to fall.

How many sessions did it take until you begun leading it, how safe is it and what about the gear cleaning logistics?
Itโ€™s quite safe even though the gear is very small! I didnโ€™t keep very careful track of the number of sessions, but I think it was about eight or so sessions of just to toproping before I started leading. It was really fun to try it on lead high up! We put a static line on the route so I could work it on toprope solo, and in between attempts I could rappel the line and clean all my gear.

When it comes to trad routes Connor has sent several 8c+โ€™ including Empath which originally was given 9a+. In 2022, he started college and commented.

โ€I think I am just as excited about studying as I am about climbing. Even though I have some very generous and supportive sponsors, I think Iโ€™d love to try to keep that balance between academics and climbing. To clarify, although Iโ€™m starting college in a week, I donโ€™t intend to stop climbing at all. I might be climbing less frequently, but Iโ€™ll still be finding projects, pushing myself, and - most importantly- having fun.โ€

Claude brothers send Dreamtime (8C)
Camille Claude (17), who last year won a Euro Cup, and Mael Claude (20) (pictured) have done Dreamtime (8C) in Cresciano. (c) Eliot Barnabรฉ

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I tried Dreamtime for the first time at Christmas with my brother Camille. He did it, but I fell at the top. I was so close. After my exams, I was planning to go back, but the weather was not good, all the holds were wet. So I decided to take a rest day and wait for better conditions, but even after this rest day, the weather was still bad. I grabbed every fan I could find, and for my last run, I send it ! it was a project with my brother and we did it together it was one of the best process i did ๐Ÿ˜Ž

What is your climbing background?
We started climbing very early in Grenoble thanks to our dad. Later, we joined the Drac Vercors climbing club and started competing. Then we moved on to the Voiron national training center, where we achieved podium finishes and reached the finals in national competitions. Camille managed to compete internationally, unlike me, who stopped competing two years ago to focus outdoor climbing like off the wagon. Before the start of the competition season, we decided to go to Dreamtime. Now Camille is at the french championship the first big comp of the season.

Stefano Ghisolfi ticks Gioia (8C+)
Stefano Ghisolfi, who last year sent his first four 8Cs, has done Gioia (8C+) in Varazze, which FA Christian Core gave 8C back in 2008. Later Adam Ondra gave it a personal 8C+ grade. The 32-year-old Italian is best known for having climbed four 9b+ routes and for winning six World Cup events, as well as the overall World Cup title in 2021. (c) Sara Grippo

โ€This one means a lot to me, I tried it for the first time in 2012 when I sent the stand start, and focused on the full line a bit more between 2015 and 2016. For 10 years I haven't been back in Varazze and then this season I felt I was ready for it. The name of the boulder means Joy, and it couldn't fit better for the feeling I had once I climbed it. It is the hardest boulder I've ever climbed and it is incredible how @corechristian was ahead of its time when he did the FA back in 2008, it is considered one of the first 8C+ in the world (maybe the very first?)โ€

Esteban Daligault has released the video of his ascent of Bon Voyage (9a). โ€Easily one of the most aesthetic routes Iโ€™ve ever climbed. A trad roof, a very natural line, finishing with a traverse โ€” classy from start to finish. I first tried it for a couple of days last spring. Back then, it felt really hard and I thought it would be a long-term project. Then I came back this fallโ€ฆ and things clicked much faster than I expected.โ€

Dylan Chuat climbs Finit Infinity (9a)
Dylan Chuat, who last year sent four 9a+โ€™ and his first 9b, has done Finite Infinity (9a) in Interlaken. The picture by Rรฉmi Degenne, is from Charmey.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I first came to try this route several years ago, and since then, I had never been back. I didnโ€™t plan on returning this winter, but I donโ€™t have any projects close to home at the moment. And above all, Iโ€™m dealing with a finger injury. Last weekend, I didnโ€™t really know where to go climbing, so I thought Iโ€™d see if I could try this line Iโ€™d kept in the back of my mind, while avoiding using my right middle finger as much as possible. And in the end, it worked out that way. Really happy to be back putting my hands on this King Line.

The route starts with a slightly morpho bouldery move, but super fun to climb, leading to a rest on a big crimp. Then comes a second small crux on friction flat holds, not easy to manage with not-so-optimized beta and a lack of friction that day. But once that section is done, you can just enjoy climbing on good holds all the way to the anchorโ€ฆ and that feels great. It had been a long time since I climbed something a bit more in endurance, and honestly, Iโ€™d missed climbing 30 meters without stopping ๐Ÿคฉ

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