Julia Fiser climbs Fish Eye (8c)

Julia Fiser, who last year sent her first 8c+, has sent Fish eye (8c) in Oliana. The 28-year-old has been an active international competition climber for 14 years and her best result is ninth in her hometown Innsbruck in 2024. (c) Toni Mas Buchaca

Can you tell us more about the ascent and your trip?
10 years ago I went on my first rock climbing trip to Oliana with a bunch of (international) friends. I was in awe of Fish Eye back then, but I wasn't brave enough to actually give it a go. To be fair, I didn't have much rock experience back then. I always wanted to return to Oliana, but it took me 10 years to come back! This time, I consciously decided to go on a solo trip, because my head was full of questions and I wanted some time away from home to think about these. So when I got here, I just had to try Fish Eye, for my younger self. I figured out the moves quickly, but there has been lots of rain here in Catalunya recently, so finding decent conditions was harder than I expected.

Finally, on my penultimate day, we got lots of strong wind which dried up the route enough to have a chance. I did it on my warmup go, more or less fully in control. A couple of days before, I completed another life goal of mine: climbing 100 routes 8a or harder.

On my last day here, it actually started snowing and it would've been impossible to climb. So I guess my timing was perfect! Besides achieving those two things my younger self dreamed of, I came back home with answers to questions I didn't even know I was asking myself. And that actually matters more than any route ever could :) I want to thank the whole Oliana family for welcoming me so warmly, and for all the belays, advice and good conversations!