Lilli Kiesgen has been on a short trip to Ticino where she first sent Alphane Moon (8A) in Chironico. Then she moved to Brione and sent Darkness (8A+), "Nice one. Went down in an hour."

On the next day she warmed up on Disney production (8A+) and did it in just 30 minutes. "Felt way to easy for 8a+. I would suggest 7c+ but it suited me really well."

The 26-year-old is a former competition climber who was #9 in the World Championship in 2016. In the 8a ranking game, she is #10 but without all her personal grades, she would have been higher up. Interesting is also that half of the ten 8A's she has done in 2023, she has sent within an hour.

What about going for an 8B as you can send 8A and 8A+ so quickly?
Haha, we are only here for a couple of days and I think I will need more time for an 8B 🙈 I tried Heritage (8B+) last year and I definitely want to try that one more. But at the moment It's just a bit too cold 😅. Next year for sure 😇

Jesús Muñoz (Chuchi) has done the FA of El Sith Elegido (8C) at La Pedriza, by adding a three moves start to an 8B+/C he did three weeks ago.

"Yesterday on my first try, and after 19 movements, I reached the famous good slopper in the last section of the boulder. Only the 6 easiest movements of the way separated me from the glory. I was exhausted, but I fought and I tried my best to get to the top of this boulder. If I had to do one more move I'm pretty sure I would have fallen.

It is a long Boulder where the resistance component determines the difficulty. I felt something similar to when you do a pull-up with maximum weight. For me, adding these 3 more movements to the 22 movements of “El Elegido” changes the game, at least that's how I felt it. I'm quite surprised that I was able to do this extension after only two work sessions after sending “El Elegido”. However, that magical attempt on Friday has kept me from returning for several days. I am sure of this.

Now it's time for a change of scenery. It will be easy since next Tuesday we are leaving for the US for three weeks to visit Bishop and Red Rocks.”

Jakob Schubert reports on Instagram that he has done Alphane (9A) in Chironico. The Austrian started working on it last winter and the send came after a dozen sessions. Shawn Raboutou made the FA last year and this was the fourth repeat after Aidan Roberts, Will Bosi and Simon Lorenzi. (c) Misha Photography

"The ride had it all, from inconsistent progress and setbacks, a slip after the hard part, having to wait out bad conditions before feeling worse again on the boulder but somehow battling through, a story of personal perseverance that I'm grateful climbing can provide me with 🥳🥳"

Taisei Homma, who the last two years has been #2 and #3 in the Lead World Cup, reports on Instagram that he has onsighted Fish eye (8c) and Paper mullat (8b+) in Oliana. "It was a very long battle in Oliana, each route being 50m. My arms were definitely sold out🪫🫠." (c) Toni Mas Buchaca

Tomoa Narasaki, one of the very best competition climbers during the last ten years, reports on Instagram that he has flashed Gakido (8C+) in Chigobutai. Narasaki suggested 8B+ for Gakido and later he made the FA of the sit start, Ashurado (8C). The four-move boulder was put up as an 8C+ and one year ago Ryuichi Murai repeated it indicating it might be easier. Murai has also tried the Sit and commented, ”The low start project joins Gakido after four crimpy moves like V13 [8B].” Yesterday, Yuta Imaizuma uploaded an Instagram video giving it an 8B/+ personal grade.

8B+ has been flashed some ten times before and, actually, some were originally graded 8C. Tomoa has previously done a couple 8C’s and in 2019 he flashed Decided (8B+).

Noah Wheeler sent Defying Gravity (8C) at the South Platte last month. This was the 21st 8B+ and beyond for the 21-year-old.

”With campus-board beta because my span is slightly too short to keep good tension on the low feet. Amazing how there's so many different ways to do the boulder dependant on one's body type, each providing similar difficulty and top-tier nuanced movement. Proudest send so far.”

Seb Bouin gives us a tour of the fantastic and relatively unexplored winter venue of Labeil, in his local stomping ground of Southern France. In the video, Seb attempts the crag’s remaining hard projects.

"Follow Alex through a full day of climbing and biking around his home area, the Frankenjura, while he attempts the crazy challenge of climbing 10 routes from 8b to 8c in 10 hours, using an e-bike to get to each route."

Solveig Korherr, who previously has done 28 routes 8c and beyond, has added to her tally while in . (c) John Thornton

Les petits chefs du néant (8c): "This route climbs much better than it seems at first glance. Great power-endurance testpiece! Ended up taking a bit longer than expected :D It is relatively short and very sustained. The first time up, I did all the moves rather quickly and the second try already felt quite promising, but I totally underestimated the difficulty of clipping some of the draws and the overall pump since there were no resting positions. Another climber who was trying it as well broke several holds, so I ended up adjusting my beta a few times. In the end, it took me a quite a bit longer than I expected at the beginning. I had a lot of fun trying this route and it was a great power-endurance challenge!"

La ligne claire (8c+): "Unreal! I can’t believe, I just sent it on my first redpoint try. Hard boulder problem at the beginning to a complex traverse on mini tufas to some tiny crimps at the top - incredible line! 3 days. I tried it once before on a previous trip but that didn’t go so well since it was very hot and it was impossible to hold some of tiny crimps. This time with luckily much cooler conditions, I was able to do all the moves very quickly. After two days of checking out every section and trying up some wet tufa parts in the middle, I felt ready for redpoint tries after a rest day. With no high expectations on my first redpoint attempt, I somehow managed to fight my way up to the anchor with no falls. Those are the best moments when I can exceed my expectations!"

Alex Ventajas has done Sanjski par extension (9a) in Osp/Misja Pec. In total, the 24-year-old has now done 14 routes 9a or 9a+ and all of them the last 2.5 years. "Last try, best try! After falling several times in the crux I decided to make a little change in my beta and it was exactly what I needed. Sometimes a small adjust can result in a big satisfaction! 1 try two years ago and 5 days this year 💪🏻"

How did you adjust the beta?
For me, the hardest part of the route was the crux section just before the first chain. It seemed hard to maintain the body tension with low feet in a 90-degree wall, so I rapidly managed to do the move with a very bad heel hook on my right hand. I thought it would have been the correct beta for me since I could do the isolated crux that way many times, but when I was coming from the ground I kept falling. It was strange because I was feeling good and I wasn’t so tired from the previous moves, but still, that beta wasn't allowed me to pass through.

Yesterday after falling two more times the same way I wasn't even sure I might give it a third try. I realized that maybe I was missing something, so I returned to basics, touching the holds all over again. Finally, I found out that with the feet low, with a different hold I hadn’t considered before, and changing one single step of the sequence, the crux was even easier compared to what I was doing! I gave it one more try and it worked! I sent the route right after changing the beta, on my last possible go for this year! It’s hard to reconsider the crux‘s betas when you feel so close and the only thing you want to do is to save energy for the next attempt, but sometimes a small adjustment can change completely your perceptions making the difference!