Alex Ventajas ticks Sanjski Par Extension

Alex Ventajas has done Sanjski par extension (9a) in Osp/Misja Pec. In total, the 24-year-old has now done 14 routes 9a or 9a+ and all of them the last 2.5 years. "Last try, best try! After falling several times in the crux I decided to make a little change in my beta and it was exactly what I needed. Sometimes a small adjust can result in a big satisfaction! 1 try two years ago and 5 days this year 💪🏻"

How did you adjust the beta?
For me, the hardest part of the route was the crux section just before the first chain. It seemed hard to maintain the body tension with low feet in a 90-degree wall, so I rapidly managed to do the move with a very bad heel hook on my right hand. I thought it would have been the correct beta for me since I could do the isolated crux that way many times, but when I was coming from the ground I kept falling. It was strange because I was feeling good and I wasn’t so tired from the previous moves, but still, that beta wasn't allowed me to pass through.

Yesterday after falling two more times the same way I wasn't even sure I might give it a third try. I realized that maybe I was missing something, so I returned to basics, touching the holds all over again. Finally, I found out that with the feet low, with a different hold I hadn’t considered before, and changing one single step of the sequence, the crux was even easier compared to what I was doing! I gave it one more try and it worked! I sent the route right after changing the beta, on my last possible go for this year! It’s hard to reconsider the crux‘s betas when you feel so close and the only thing you want to do is to save energy for the next attempt, but sometimes a small adjustment can change completely your perceptions making the difference!