Carlo Traversi, one of the best multi-discipline climbers in the world, has done the FA of The Dark Side (8C+) after trying it for 50+ sessions since 2013. ”The perfect line in the perfect place. The infamous project of Camp 4 on the left side of the Thriller boulder. Too many days to count on this one. By far the hardest thing I've climbed. Such an insane condition battle. Split tips, too humid, too dry, too warm, too cold...an endlessly frustrating battle. Started sitting, pulling off the ground on the far left side of the obvious jug rail. The grade is a suggestion. It's always hard to tell, especially when you dive this deep.”

Carlo started making 8a headlines in 2008 and he has sent a dozen 8C and beyond, one 9b and a 9a (+) trad. In total, he has logged almost 1 000 ascents any many of them with interesting comments like when he did his first 8C but have it a personal 8B+ grade back in 2008. ” The culmination of a tumultuous year as a 21 year old, filled with the highest of highs and the lowest of lows, I must say I am very grateful for the life that I am able to live. Life has never been better. As for the grade: I see this as the next level for me, so 8B+ seems appropriate. I normally avoid crimps like it's my job, so how could I skip a grade in the style that I'm worst at? I certainly don't believe that I am a V15 climber...”

What does a normal week look like for you nowadays?
I’m climbing 5 days per week. 2-3 days in the gym for 1-2 hours each session. 1-2 days outside each week usually climbing all day. No specific training just climbing.

I own a gym in Sacramento, California and spend most of my time operating it. I route set, make facility improvements, help manage the staff, do various cleaning tasks, some marketing work, etc. All the joys of owning a business!

Simon Lorenzi reports on Instagram that he has done Burden of Dreams (9A) in Lappnor. It was put up as the first-ever 9A boulder problem in 2016 after Nalle Hukkataival had projected it for three years. In April, Will Bosi did the first repeat of this five move testpiece. It is characterised by a pure, minimal style that requires on tiny crimps at a 45 degree angle and has repelled some of the very best climbers in the world.

Lorenzi has previously done the FA of Soudain seul (9A) and repeated Alphane (9A), which makes him the only climber to have done three 9A graded boulder problems.

Sera Gearhart, who previously has done ten boulders 8A+ or 8B, has sent Morphine (8B) at 221. "It took me 4 sessions. I went after work in the dark one day to try moves, came back to do it another session and really messed up my skin, then tried one day with my fingers completely taped and ended up leaving because it didn't work at all haha. I did it second try going back the 4th day."

Do you have your sights set on 8B+ now?
I'd love to try 8B+, I really haven't tried any yet. I think the obvious ones that suit me well are mostly outside of the United States and I can't leave the country because of my job. I'll find something to try soon!

Can you tell us about your profession and what a typical work week looks like for you?
I work as a government contractor for health care quality improvement:) I really enjoy it but I can't work outside of the country because it's a security risk. I work a lot and it's dark a lot of the time when I'm able to get out in the winter. Right now it is not fun hahaha. I try to leave early twice a week after work to sneak in a shorter session and I climb as much as I can on the weekends. I don't climb inside very much at all :) [I] usually don't climb inside in a week.

Edu Marin, who in 2006 won the World Cup in Chamonix, spent 170+ days in China out of which 50 days of bolting, to put up one of the hardest MP's in the world in 2019. It has 14 pitches and overhangs 304 meters.

We hope 2023 has been full of good climbing and successful trips to beautiful crags. We wish you strong motivation into completing new challenges in 2024. We are now almost 140 000 members who have recorded 8.6 million ascents into their logbook including some of the best climbs and climbers in the world. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

Benjamin Guigonnet has done Comité d'accueil (9a) in Séranon. The 35-year-old mountain guide, alpinist and big wall climber is having his best sport climber year ever having done three 9a’s and two 8c+’. “I tried the route for seven days in December. I fell many times on the same move in the crimp crux!

What's up next for you?
I am going to Gréolières where I have many projects and maybe look at Bon Voyage in Annot.

Lilli Kiesgen has been on a short trip to Ticino where she first sent Alphane Moon (8A) in Chironico. Then she moved to Brione and sent Darkness (8A+), "Nice one. Went down in an hour."

On the next day she warmed up on Disney production (8A+) and did it in just 30 minutes. "Felt way to easy for 8a+. I would suggest 7c+ but it suited me really well."

The 26-year-old is a former competition climber who was #9 in the World Championship in 2016. In the 8a ranking game, she is #10 but without all her personal grades, she would have been higher up. Interesting is also that half of the ten 8A's she has done in 2023, she has sent within an hour.

What about going for an 8B as you can send 8A and 8A+ so quickly?
Haha, we are only here for a couple of days and I think I will need more time for an 8B 🙈 I tried Heritage (8B+) last year and I definitely want to try that one more. But at the moment It's just a bit too cold 😅. Next year for sure 😇

Jesús Muñoz Vaquero (Chuchi) has done the FA of El Sith Elegido (8C) at La Pedriza, by adding a three moves start to an 8B+/C he did three weeks ago.

"Yesterday on my first try, and after 19 movements, I reached the famous good slopper in the last section of the boulder. Only the 6 easiest movements of the way separated me from the glory. I was exhausted, but I fought and I tried my best to get to the top of this boulder. If I had to do one more move I'm pretty sure I would have fallen.

It is a long Boulder where the resistance component determines the difficulty. I felt something similar to when you do a pull-up with maximum weight. For me, adding these 3 more movements to the 22 movements of “El Elegido” changes the game, at least that's how I felt it. I'm quite surprised that I was able to do this extension after only two work sessions after sending “El Elegido”. However, that magical attempt on Friday has kept me from returning for several days. I am sure of this.

Now it's time for a change of scenery. It will be easy since next Tuesday we are leaving for the US for three weeks to visit Bishop and Red Rocks.”

Jakob Schubert reports on Instagram that he has done Alphane (9A) in Chironico. The Austrian started working on it last winter and the send came after a dozen sessions. Shawn Raboutou made the FA last year and this was the fourth repeat after Aidan Roberts, Will Bosi and Simon Lorenzi. (c) Misha Photography

"The ride had it all, from inconsistent progress and setbacks, a slip after the hard part, having to wait out bad conditions before feeling worse again on the boulder but somehow battling through, a story of personal perseverance that I'm grateful climbing can provide me with 🥳🥳"