NEWS
Join the World's Longest Climb
In a few months, the world's top sport climbers will compete at the Olympic Games in Paris. However, before the Games begin, weโre calling on all climbers to climb there with us by joining The Vertical-Life Climb to Paris Challenge powered by Mammut. With your support, weโll be linking together the worldโs longest multi-pitch by starting in Tokyo, host of the 2020 Olympics, and topping out 14 million meters later in Paris.
How it works: Start by simply logging into your profile and add your climbs to your logbook by ticking your ascents on the Vertical-Life app or website. If you don't have a Vertical-Life account yet, you can create one for free. All indoor and outdoor climbs completed before July 17th count towards Paris. Along the way, top prizes provided by Vertical-Life and Mammut will be raffled at every milestone that we climb to, just make sure to click the "Join The Raffle" button on the challenge page. Plus, all premium users will be entered into a draw for the Grand Prize - an exclusive climbing day with a Mammut athlete.
Add your gym to Vertical-Life: Additionally, every Vertical-Life Gym is competing in the Climb to Paris Global Gym Ranking, and the top-performing gym will claim an exclusive Gym Grand Prize. If your gym isnโt on Vertical-Life yet, just let us know and we will get in touch with them. If youโre a gym manager or employee, email us at [email protected].
Share the psyche: Share your climbing pictures and videos with us from anywhere in the world. Tag @vertical.life.climbing on Instagram and use #climbtoparis to get reposted!
William Moss puts down three 8b+/8c trad lines
Kill Switch (8b+) in Gross Reservoir: "Cool grit style route. Put it down second sesh. after it was wet during the first session."
Viceroy (8c) in Castle Rock: "Did so much tr solo on this thing, probably about 14 sessions before giving it a lead burn. Worked it a lot cuz of the danger factor and wanted to make sure I had the placements dialed and didnโt fall on the sketch sections. Fell once on the first crux after the 13c and then sent next lead burn."
Cheating Reality (8b+) in Flatirons: "Really cool route. Did it all on gear. Found a good rock sling that made the 5.12 not a solo. Super good route in a sick area."
Matt Fultz completes Big Z (8C+)
โThis is the hardest problem I have ever done without a doubt. Honestly, this is the first time I truly understand the concept of a problem being bigger and more meaningful than just the number attached to it.
Iโve been trying Big Z for the past 3 years. During my first 10-ish sessions I knew it was impossible for me. Iโm too tall and donโt fit into the positions at all. My fingers are too big to fit into the cracks. My butt is too big to avoid the dab on the rock! I only continued to show up because I knew it was good for me to work on my weaknesses, and holy cow what a sick line! I eventually worked out the kneebar beta which unlocked the middle crux, but the kneebar also created a new issue... The transition out of the kneebar became a new crux [in itself] and set me up for the next moves terribly. This year I fell on the last move. Then a couple days ago I basically did it from one move in. I truly believed for the first time. Fast forward about 20 more sessions and I ended up on top with full confidence on my first try of the day.โ
Luca Bana repeats A Present for the Future (9a/+)
The 26-year-old has done eleven routes 9a's and harder. He has also done the FA of 36 routes 8c and harder including five 9a's.
Bana adds: "I still have a few hard unclimbed projects near home, so the plan in the short term is to challenge again myself for high level FAs, let's see! I bolted most of them with my friend Bernardo Rivadossi"
What's the longest you've ever project a climb?
I think that the most challenging routes I did took me a maximum of 8/10 sessions to complete. I'm not a super fan of routes worked for too long, and I know that if I want to make it one step further and move to the next level I need to invest more time. Let's see, for sure I'll dedicate myself to longer projects sooner or later.
Samuel Ometz puts up Avant Demain (9a)
Can you tell us more about the Demain and how hard it could be?
It was bolted around 20 years ago, by David Hohl, both the original and the variant I did. Demain is the direct start and adds a hard boulder at the start. The variation I climbed joins Demain after that hard section (7bish climbing instead of an 8B/+ boulder). Such slabby routes are tricky to grade but Demain could be 9b.
Sam Weir climbs Forgotten Gem (8C)
Can you tell us a little more about this boulder and your send?
I went to try it January with my friend Marine and it was -2 degrees when we got to the boulder. This first session I fell on the top out third try because I was giving ground up tries and was onsighting due to us not having enough pads or a ladder to check the holds. I got scared and dropped. Then the sun left the valley and temps got too cold to climb. I Came back yesterday from Geneva for a day trip and did it I think second or third try! Itโs a really basic board style climb. 5 stars. One of the best in Switzerland.
What are you thinking about tackling next?
Iโm trying this old Tony Lamiche project in Chamonix and training on the board with my friends. Then, back to Fionnay to have another round on Fuck the System once it melts out!
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Tristan Chen footage from Desperanza
Yuta Imaizumi completes multiple 8C's and an 8C+
Over the just the last year, Yuta has done Ukiyo (8B+), Asagimadara (8C), Fลซjin (8B+), Gakido (8C+) and Ashurado (8C).
Last month he was #5 and #11 in the Japan Lead and Boulder Nationals. "Iโll participate in the first Lead World Cup in China [this year]!" The 23-year-old made his debut on the international scene placing #35 in a World Cup at age 16. His second and last World Cup was Meiringen in 2021, where he was #25.
How does a normal climbing week look like?
I train with a routine of two days of climbing and one day of rest afterwards . I mostly climb spray walls from basic level to high level and sometimes go climbing at b-pump Ogikubo as well. I train lead climbing once a week. Some days I do endurance training and try hard routes. During rock climbing season, i donโt do lead climbing but climb crimp routes on a spray wall. In the season, I go outdoor climbing once a week.
Iris Matamoros (43) keeps up his fine form
How do you manage to stay in great shape at age 43? How do you train?
I usually train for two days and try to climb two or three more, but with two children it is not easy. Before I climbed more but now my focus is more on quality sessions.
Session 1. Fingerboard and Bouldering
Session 2. Endurance, conditioning
With the kids, climbing a lot and climbing onsight is more difficult. Instead, it is easier to choose a good place and to try a hard project once a day. After climbing and training for many years I know myself very well. Now I'm more focused on quality sessions, good nutrition and more rest (when it is possible... with little kids you never know how it is going be)
I have to say that this would not be possible without the support of my wife, we share the passion for climbing and this is a key aspect. We understand and support each other. I also have to say that we are in a good moment now, we have been training and climbing regularly, but sometimes there are difficult moments when the children are sick and we cannot sleep, when they have their activities or when they are not happy and comfortable at the crag... They require a lot of energy and hard climbs always depends on this [energy]. We need a lot of desire and a lot of coffee! My tactics [with age] are much better too.
What is next?
We will be in Santa Linya in 9 days, I tried JoeDan (9a), and I really wanted to climb it, but now a hold broke and it is much harder...๐ Maybe La Novena Puerta (8c+)โฆ maybe some 8c+ 's that I have not done.
Any new hard projects you have bolted recently?
I have bolted the link between El osteopata (9a) and Antifragil. It means climbing the hardest part of each route and the link could be the hardest part. That is why I think it could be 9a+... but maybe it is too much for me. The season is over in the cave, but maybe I could try it the next season.





