18 March 2024
Samuel Ometz puts up Avant Demain (9a)
Samuel Ometz has made the FA of Avant demain (9a) in St-Loup. "Happy to free a new hard line on this mythical wall! After having tried "Demain" a dozen times over the last 4 years, I decided to try a variant starting in "Nightmare" to skip the 1st crux, the rest being already quite challenging. A first slabby crux with a textureless sloper, followed by a second low percentage crux on shitty feet. 8 days focused on this variant this year."
Can you tell us more about the Demain and how hard it could be?
It was bolted around 20 years ago, by David Hohl, both the original and the variant I did. Demain is the direct start and adds a hard boulder at the start. The variation I climbed joins Demain after that hard section (7bish climbing instead of an 8B/+ boulder). Such slabby routes are tricky to grade but Demain could be 9b.
Can you tell us more about the Demain and how hard it could be?
It was bolted around 20 years ago, by David Hohl, both the original and the variant I did. Demain is the direct start and adds a hard boulder at the start. The variation I climbed joins Demain after that hard section (7bish climbing instead of an 8B/+ boulder). Such slabby routes are tricky to grade but Demain could be 9b.
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