Toby Roberts, who was first in the semifinal, won the final on countback over Taisei Homma in Wujiang. The bronze was awarded to Sorato Anraku who was second in the boulder World Cup, in Keqiao, just five days ago.

Janja Garnbret had another dominating victory, topping all four routes with ease. The runner-up was Zhilu Luo who, who also made the podium at the first boulder WC, earning a bronze. Final highlights © Kazushige Nakajima/IFSC

1. Toby Roberts GBR 36+ : Janja Garnbret SLO Top
2. Taisei Homma JPN 36+ : Zhilu Luo CHI 44+
3. Sorato Anraku JPN 32+ : Chaehyun Seo KOR 43+
4. Zento Murashita JPN 24+ : Natsuki Tanii JPN 40
Complete results

Garnbret: “I was just having a lot of fun and just excited to be back competing. I had a good start back with Boulder and I hoped I would have the same with Lead, and I guess my Lead shape is as good as Boulder. I’m excited now to go back home and get some more training in before I return to do the World Cup in Innsbruck where I will do Boulder and Lead, and then it’s Paris.”

Roberts: “I slightly misread the beta, but I managed to stay there and compose myself and find the right way luckily. Preparation for Paris is going well and I’m using this competition to see how I am doing after a hard winter's training and I'm just enjoying competing on the comp circuit. So things are going well.”

Marwin Winkler, who did two 9a’s in 2019, has completed Chilam Salsera (9a) in Villanueva del Rosario.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Chilam Salsera* combines the first pitch of Chilam Balam (8c+) with an easier exit than the original Chilam Balam. I did the first part back in 2020 after a rather lucky punch sticking every hold in the bouldery crux perfectly. In the following years, I didn't even come close to linking the boulder anymore, but was able to do the upper part starting with an 8a in 2021 and did the whole route except the bouldery crux by traversing in from another route (Buchilam Salsera (8c+/9a)) in 2022.

This trip, however, felt different. During the first days, I managed to link the first boulder (the one I struggled so much with) and linked it from the 2nd boulder (which was still wet) to the top. I knew that it could be possible this time, but the fact that it got seeping wet didn't make things easier... After the rain, I did it on the first days when it was climbable again.

How come you did not do any 9a's for almost five years?
I did my PhD [sports sciences], during those years, so had less time for outdoor climbing. Therefore I was more motivated to try several not so hard routes instead of projecting one route during the entire trip.

Sam Watson broke the Speed World Record twice in the Wujiang qualification with 4.85 and 4.79 respectively. In order to make it to the Top-16, 5.25 was needed which also was a new record. Complete results
© Kazushige Nakajima/IFSC

Lucy Mitchell has completed the 50m long Freefight intégral (8c) in Luberon. ”I have tried it on and off in the past 2 years but the ‘big’ move in the middle has always been a bit of a stopper for me. This Easter I came back a little stronger and it went from a ‘maybe get it before my skin gave up’ move to an ‘I’d get it every other go’ move. It took a little longer than I thought to finish off as I struggled with the increase in temperature in the region. But, luckily I found a weather window of cool temps and managed not make the most of it! On to the next :)”

What could "the next" be?
Going home on Monday. Next Christmas I hope to get stuck into trying some harder things if all is well

What about the next eight months until Christmas?
Just working at home, unfortunately. I manage a bouldering wall. And set and coach freelance on the side. Some of my staff are doing the competition season and want time off this summer to train and compete. So I am happy to give them that opportunity with no strings attached. Perhaps I could get a week in Ceuse in July … that would be amazing. I am head setter for the youth series of competitions in Ireland from September - November. So I am too busy to go then.

What about your local outdoor scene?
My nearest rock is 2 hours from my house. And then a minimum hour walk up a mountain to get to it. It’s is all trad. There is one small side area bolted with 6 routes 6c - 8b+, but I have done them all. Ireland is nice to look at. Less nice to climb in. Britain is closest, which is £300 ferry and 5-hour drive. Easier to fly to France!

Michaela Kirsch repeated Chris Sharma’s classic five-star climb, Era Vella (9a) at Margalef, last November, after trying it for roughly seven sessions.

Brian Squire, who has already climbed ten 8B+'s has completed Pegasus (8C) and Sound of Violence (8C), logging it as 8B+, in Joe's Valley (UT).

Can you tell us more about your latest ascents?
Pegasus was sorta the final boss of Joe’s Valley for me. After moving to SLC last year I spent a bunch of time here trying to tick off all of the classic 13s [8B's] first and then move up to the harder stuff and finally I got to Pegasus and was able to take it down after a couple of sessions. 15 minutes or so after doing Pegasus I was able to do Sound of Silence as well. I had done the stand (Sound of Silence) before, but never tried the sit. I managed to do it pretty quickly riding a wave of psych! [It] Made for one of my better days climbing!

Michaela Kiersch has onsighted Crimptonite (8b+) in Oliana and redpointed Victima Perfecta (9a+) in Margalef. "So happy to send it after some true heartbreaking attempts falling at the last move — maybe 6 times. A good lesson in perseverance and being patient and in the moment." (c) Jan Novak

Can you tell us more about your first 8b+ onsight?
I gave 2 tries on a new project in Oliana and decided to go for it at the end of the day. Turns out climbing on pockets at 50-60 degrees every day didn’t hurt my crimp strength. I just climbed slowly and took my time to find the right holds and sequences.

Babsi Zangerl reports on Instagram that she has done Pungitopo (8c+) in Arco. (c) Jacopo Larcher

Can you tell us more about your latest redpoint?
Originally I wanted to get back on Solitary Souls (8c+) but it was always soaking wet so I checked out Pungitopo. I guess that one fits my style pretty well. I had some struggles on a very reachy move in the middle. It took me 6 days to climb it.

Jacopo [Larcher] also did the first ascent of “Strange” a route on the left of Pungitopo. Alfredo Webber bolted that route and did it from the second bolt. He was unsure if it was easier or the same grade as Pungitopo.

Tomoa Narasaki won his seventh Boulder World Cup. The runner-up was Sorato Anraku, the overall WC winner in both Lead and Boulder in 2023. Narasaki won by flashing two boulders and all four zones meanwhile 17-year-old Anraku needed four tries for his two tops. Hannes van Duysen, who last year won the Lead Youth World Championship and took the bronze in Boulder, completed the podium. The final round was cancelled due to bad weather and the top six were also among the top eight after the qualification.

Narasaki: "I’m happy to take the win. It’s important to get focussed on the Olympic Games and it starts now with this win. I just have to continue training now for the Games." More quotes can be found on the IFSC website and here are their highlights and more.

1. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 24 (2)
2. Soratu Anraku JPN 24 (4)
3. Hannes van Duysen BEL 23 (4 & 4)
4. Toby Roberts GBR 23 (4 & 6)
5. Sam Avezou FRA 23 (5)
6. Meichi Narasaki JPN 22
Complete results

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