Jabee Kim, older brother to one of the world’s most successful female competition climbers, Jain Kim, has climbed La Révolutionnaire (8C+) in Fontainebleau after projecting it for nine sessions during a month batteling bad conditions.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
After my ascent of Monkey Wedding (8C) in Rocklands last year, I was looking for a new hard project. In Korea, we have some good strong climbers like Jongwon Chon and Dohyun Lee but they always focus on the Olympics. Other Korean competition climbers also only focus on competition, so Korean climbers have never climbed an 8C+ boulder route and this became my goal.

Somehow, I saw a video where Ryohei Kameyama sent La Révolutionnaire and there were some crimps on the roof. At that moment, I thought 'OK, this is it.'

I spent three sessions of the first week on each move but it was hard. Not only for the climbing but also for the weather as it was raining a lot. The second week it wasn't raining but I had to wait for the holds to dry up. On the third week, I tried to link the moves, but it was so hard. I spent three more sessions linking the moves but it never happened. I changed beta before the last crux and it fitted me better. After two more sessions, the weather was perfect, my body condition was perfect, and everything was so good. I tried the blind dyno for warm-up and it worked easily. In the first three attempts I fell on the middle part, and in my 4th attempt, every move was so smooth, somehow I was on top of the boulder. In total, I spent nine sessions and one whole month on this hard project. I never regret that. It was the most valuable time for personal growth.

Alfons Dornauer reports on Instagram that he has done the third ascent of Companion of Change (9a+) in Bergstation. Jakob Schubert did the FA in 2015 and then Alex Megos made the first repeat in 2017. Dornauer started trying the route more than a decade ago but abandoned it as it felt too hard. This year he completed it after a couple of further days' effort. (c) Michael Piccolruaz

Can you tell us more about the route and your ascent?
The route is only slightly overhanging and consists of an 8a+ route followed by a very specific 8A++ boulder on crimps. Back in the days, it was one of the ultimate projects at the Petzl Rock Trip, in 2009, in Zillertal. It's not a boulder to just fight through with strong fingers but especially footwork and the right amount of body tension needs to be in place! Compared to the past, this time the boulder immediately worked out pretty well which gave me the confidence to send the route! It's just an incredible piece of rock with just enough holds to make it work!

Elias Arriagada Krüger, who was #37 in the Boulder WC two weeks ago, sent From Dirt Grows The Flowers (8C) in Chironico one month ago. (c) Benjamin Weber

” Few weeks ago I drove to Ticino for a super short trip, to get a little rest from training and to refresh my mind before the comp season starts. I was going to Brione, but something in my head told me, I should go for another session on “From Dirt”. I’ve tried this boulder a few sessions before, but never really focused on it much, as I never felt really close on climbing it. This time, I had the right energy, the weather was perfect and it just felt right. After falling 4 times on the mantle, on my last go I made it happen. I felt like it was meant to be. And, regarding the bloc itself and don’t think I have to add much. Simply an incredible line, in particular the crystals!!!”

What has been your focus the last months?
Well, the last couple of months I mainly focused on comp climbing, but obviously, I also trained a lot on boards to improve my power. I did a lot of that with other strong climbers like Yannick and some of the Austrians. But of course, I couldn’t completely skip the Ticino season and [and so I] did short trips to Ticino.

What is next?
I’ll put some work into training again and spend some time at home, because I haven’t been home and I a while, haha. But yeah, next objectives is some rock climbing soonish and probably the Innsbruck WC.

Martin Stráník, with 18 8C’s under his belt, has flashed Bitter Sweet (8B) being out in Salachtal on a solo mission.

The 34-year-old Czech climber has been an active IFSC competitive climber for 20 years. As a junior competitor he won several Euro Cups and in 2007, he took home the silver medal in the Boulder World Championship. In 2021, he had his best year in Lead making the WC podium twice. Last year he finished up by placing #9 in Wujiang; earlier this month he was #17 in the same venue.

He plans to do the Olympic Qualifiers, European Champs and most of the lead World Cups.

Can you tell us more about flashing your second 8B?
My goal was to try Zunami (8C), but nothing changed and I was still not able to do first move. So I moved to Bitter Sweet, without expectations. When I saw the holds, I was convinced that it is flashable and studied the video on Janeclimbs YouTube and I did it.

Martina Demmel has onsighted Stiquel man (8a+/b) in Saint Léger. ”Maybe being very limited with my right knee due to a recent injury helps me commit faster... stoked that I fully took the risk to fail. (c) Felix Bub

The 22-year-old competition climber onsighted her first 8b, out of ten, four years ago when she had only been climbing for three years. In the 8a ranking game she is #7 in the onsight ranking, all men included.

Can you tell us more about your injury and how it made you climb faster?
In qualis in Wujiang, we had a pretty aggressive heel-toe-jam where my calf dislocated for a short moment and injured the capsule. It's not as bad as it sounds because it completely heals by itself in about 6 weeks but now for the first few weeks, I'm very limited with the use of my right leg (no heel-hooks, dropknees, twisting, high steps, pushing, pulling with the toes - so standing on it frontally is ok).

I guess while trying a hard onsight especially in steep bouldery terrain, there isn't plenty of time to choose the ideal footholds. Not having several options for the use of my right leg helped me decide quicker, hesitate less and just commit to the obvious beta right away by taking more risks. I hope to apply this more even after my knee is healed again. I definitely feel my upper body getting much more tired than usual...

Tanguy Merard, who three weekends ago sent three 9a’s, has carried on with more productive days in L'Abattoir making the FA of La cinquantaine éclatante (9a+), Brouncha (9a) and Hannigraal (9b). (c) Jocelyn Chavy

”I started trying La Cinquantaine Éclatante because the route consisted of making an easier start of a 9b [project Hannigraal]. It was motivating because it gave me an intermediate objective. In terms of climbing and holds, I've never loved a route so much, I couldn't stop climbing it, I loved it. These routes didn't require any mental effort because climbing them was just a pleasure, and I didn't care if I did the route.

[Two days later] On my first try I sent the new route that I bolted with a friend, "Brouncha" 9a FA. The same day I tried the hardest project on the cliff that we were trying with Seb Berthe, which consists of doing a 9a and continuing into "La Cinquantaine Éclatante", 9a+. So I launched into the route without any expectations just to see what it was like, telling myself that if I did the first part (9a) it would already be good. I was flying on the holds and I arrived at the first anchor so easily without feeling pumped, so after that I started to believe. I gave it my all for the final boulder , got back into the slab and managed to calm down before sending the final jump over the edge of the cliff. Everything was perfect, I clipped the anchor in shock and I was surprised, I had just completed my first 9b Hannigraal FA.

About the grade of "Hannigraal" which for me is much harder than all the 9a+ I did. I had a little doubt because I did it super quickly, but the route suits me very well. I also had a discussion with Nicolas Pelorson and Seb Berthe who tried the route, and they told me that they agreed with me.”

Pierre Trolliet has done Cosi se Arete (9a) in Rodellar. This stunning line is 50 meter long and follows the crag’s most overhanging section. (c) Léo Giroudon

Can you tell us more about Cosi?
I started projecting this route last year. I thought it could fit my style, since the route is long, overhanging, and not too crimpy. Still, the boulder problem at the top was quite a big challenge for me. But, the place and the line are so incredible that I was ready for some serious dedication. With a tricky combination of beta fine tuning, and perfect weather conditions, I could reach the top, after a huge mental fight. I am really happy about sending this dream line, and very thankful for those who helped me through the process, particularly my girlfriend, who clearly made this possible.

David Bermudez Carbonell, who earlier this year climbed two 9a’s, has ticked ¡0,7 ya! (8c+) in Cuenca, after working on it for around ten days. (c) Javi Pec

"This route has been a challenge for me as it is undoubtedly the hardest 8c+ I have ever done and since it was bolted in the 90's it has received very few ascents. In fact, it has cost me more than the 9a's I have done. The route is divided into the first 20m which will be like 8b/+, an active rest followed by a 7C+ boulder and finishes on a very technical slab where it is easy to fall off."

Congrats on your latest redpoint! Do you train most weeks to prepare for your projects and the climbing you do outdoors?
On Monday I rest actively and only do some stretching and wrist exercises. Then on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday I train, with Sputnik Climbing plans. On Friday I rest and I climb outdoors on Saturday and Sunday

Do you have other projects and goals in mind?
The next target here in Cuenca is to send El intento (9a), which is a route that I have given some 30 tries already.

Leo Bøe has done Fabelita r2 (9a) in Santa Linya. "Great extension to Fabelita! Suits me pretty well as I am strong on the toe-hook. 2 days last year, and 3 days this trip! The line is quite straight and is one of the cooler climbs in the cave, despite it being a bit bouldery. In total, you end up climbing around 45 meters & 100+ moves to get to the top of the cave!! " (c) Jaume Cebolla Vincent

Is there another climb that you have in mind in Santa Linya?
Now I will try to get through the start of Ciudad de dios (9a), my biggest project!