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Paris 2024 Prediction Game: Predict and Win!
The 2024 Paris Olympics are just around the corner. Starting from August 5th, the Boulder & Lead discipline will feature the worldโ€™s best climbers competing for the top spots. Predict the top 5 athletes in this discipline. Each correct rank prediction earns you 100 points and one raffle ticket. The more points you get, the more chances you have to win prizes from our sponsors: Tenaya, Ocun, Singing Rock and DMM.
Have fun placing your guesses and testing your knowledge.

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Michaela Kiersch ticks The Arch (8B)
Michaela Kiersch continues her sending train in Rocklands by doing The Arch (8B).

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I tried The Arch after a long day of other projects and worked out my beta in the dark but was way too tired to send. I did it second try in my 2nd sesh. At the end of another long day of other projects ๐Ÿ˜‰

How do you like bouldering in Rocklands?
I think going to any new area feels exciting and overwhelming because of all the possible climbs to try. So far (aside from the rain) itโ€™s been incredible. Pretty much my bouldering is limited to Switzerland and Rocklands ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚.

How do you choose which boulders to try?
I created a to-do list based on classics in the area as well as climbs in the grade range I was interested in. And then I started going down the list and trying all the climbs which were close to each other. Iโ€™m in great shape so luckily most of my sends have happened in 1 session.

Spray bottle and soft bristle brush in use in Castle Hill
Derek Thatcher started to climb in Castle Hill some 25 years ago and now they have a protocoll, how to wash boulders to preserve friction on their limestone, video. This method using a spray bottle and a soft bristle brush should not be used on sandstone!

"Washing hand and foot holds has been commonplace in Castle Hill Basin for over 20 years and in recent years with increasing traffic more and more visitors have taken up the process to maximise friction and preserve the rock. Now more climbers are seen carrying garden spray bottles than not and it is so uncommon to visit an โ€˜unwashedโ€™ climb that it seems offensive when you do. The norm is to wash all the built up rubber and chalk off every boulder when you finish and leave it in perfect condition for the next people (once dried of course). Once you start seeing the benefits of washing any drawbacks seem insignificant, you may even find yourself washing large sport climbs in the hope of improving friction."

Is it true that a polished boulder can have improved friction after a year without climbing?
A year is optimistic! Certainly within 5 to 10 years depending on the aspect, from observation of climbs that have been closed off for various reasons. Lots of small areas of boulders have been closed here and fenced off for native replanting. This is all observational, not science, but I certainly have re-looked at things and have a good memory for texture. I assume it is done by the same weathering processes that give the friction in the first place. I am not a geologist but my understanding is that the micro texture of limestone is formed by water running over the rock and both removing and depositing materials.

One of the largest positives I see here from our campaigning is that the general climber starts to pay way more attention to their impact. Watching when holds start to rubber up and realising they can do something about it.

Eva Hammelmรผller does two 8c's
Eva Hammelmรผller, who was #24 in last World Cup, has in three tries each, done Dragรฉe Fuca (8c) and Idรฉe fixe (8c) in Brianรงon. In total, the 24-year-old has now done 28 routes 8c to 9a. (c) Felix Mast

How is it to combine World cups and outdoors?
I spent most of the pre-season preparing for the World Cups, so I didnโ€™t get to spend too much time climbing outside. I think I made some progress regarding my fitness, but I couldnโ€™t really bring it on the wall at the World Cups. Now, I am just happy to climb outside again, and I am so psyched to climb all those amazing routes in the Brianรงon region!

Jenn DeBellis Sends Law and Order (8A+)
Jenn DeBellis, with seven 8Aโ€™s under her belt, has completed Law and Order (8A+) in Rocklands. โ€œA special treat to top out to the sun setting over the valley.โ€

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I was surprised last season to find a relatively static method to work for me, and I was inspired to finish what I started when coming back this season. It felt like a perfect Rocklands experience to top out the boulder, after a bit of a fight, to a vibrant sunset.

Flohรฉ and Megos ready for the Olympics
Yannick Flohรฉ and Alex Megos are two strong contenders for the Olympics that are also among the best outdoors. Yannick (24) with three 8C+โ€™ and a 9a+ under his belt, won the Combined World Championship in 2021. The next year, he was Top-7 in all the ten World Cups he participated in.

Megos (30) track record outdoors, with around 20 ascents 9b/8C and beyond, can only be matched by Adam Ondra. On the competition scene he has three times made the podium in the Lead World Championships and he was #2 in Innsbruck in 2024. His best bouldering result is a silver in the European Championship in 2017. (c) Samm Pratt

How is the Olympic preparation going on?
Flohรฉ: Iโ€™m back home and just take it easy before the Olympics. Iโ€™ve spent some time in Innsbruck and worked a lot on my lead climbing. I focused mainly on endurance training and did some bouldering comp simulations as well. I think lead climbing will be way more important in Paris due to the lack of separation in points in most of the bouldering rounds. Canโ€™t wait to compete in Paris and Iโ€™m already looking forward to my trip to Ceรผse afterwards :)

Megos: Preparations are going good and I don't feel my finger anymore, which is great! Very much looking forward to experiencing Paris with Yannick and Lucia [Doerffel] ๐Ÿ˜

Can you tell us more about your finger injury?
I ruptured my pulley on my middle finger 2 weeks before the OQS in Shanghai. I was kinda stressed because of it and feared it might be the end of my qualification process. Thankfully it went OK in Shanghai despite the pain and it healed faster than everyone expected, so I was back in the game for Budapest and qualified.

Who have you been training together with?
Flohรฉ: Mainly with the national team. Iโ€™ve been to Innsbruck three times just with Alex [Megos] or with the team before the first OQS between the two OQS and last week.

How is your level compared with Megos/Flohe in Lead/Boulder?
Flohรฉ: Depends on the route. If itโ€™s more about bouldery style I can keep up with him but on pure endurance no chance ๐Ÿ˜…

Megos: I think I can only keep up with Yannick in bouldering on the slabs and the weird boulders. On dynos and powerful stuff he is almost unbeatable.

What is your Olympic goal?
Flohรฉ: For sure making the final. Not climbing every round is always a bit disappointing.

Megos: The goal is to try really hard and hopefully make finals. That would be amazing.

Michaela Kiersch flashes Light Saber (8A)
Michaela Kiersch continues her sending train in Rocklands and after two weeks she has now done ten boulders 8A and beyond. Today she flashed Light Saber (8A) and later sent Tea with Elmarie 8A (+). (c) Kevin McNally

Austria was the best country in the European Lead Youth Cup in ลฝilina, winning two golds and one silver. Isabella Rinaldi from Great Britain was the only climber who could repeat the victory from last week in Dornbrin and again she also won the qualification.

05: Gorard Jurekovic SLO - Martina Bursikova SVK
07: Jan Stipek CZE - Anika Deubler AUT
09: Christian Leitner AUT - Isabella Rinaldi GBR
Complete results

Milena and Hania send Cringer (8b+)
Milena Ciechanowska [pictured] and Hanna Kozina, both 17 years old, have sent Cringer (8b+) in Frankenjura. Mateusz Haladaj, who has done 19 routes 9a and beyond, is working for the Polish Climbing Federation. "I've been coaching Milena for 2 full years now and occasionally working with Hania. They are part of the Youth Climbing Team and go out for climbing trips twice a year as a part of the Federation program. In the case of Cringer, they started working the route during our climbing camp in June and now they finished it on their own. As a coach, I believe that setting an individual program is only part of the task. Helping define right goals, finding optimal beta, working on tactics and sharing experience can be a great part of succeeding in outdoor climbing."

Can you tell us about your ascents of Cringer?
Milena: This is my style - long routes with cruxes separated by good rest positions. โ€˜Cringerโ€™ is an outstanding line where getting into the flow and diving into the climbing is just a matter of seconds. I had a great time figuring out the beta with my friend Hanna Kozina. From the first go, I knew I wanted to send it. The mutual support and a loud voice of cheering gave us an additional boost. We did our best, sending our first 10+ on the same day. It was a special moment, Iโ€™m happy we did that together.

Hania: From the moment I saw Cringer, I just knew I was going to enjoy it. Every part of this route encouraged me to climb more and try harderโ€“ an easy, but interesting start, two cruxes separated by a good rest position, and a less complex finish that still required concentration to avoid slipping by the anchor. The second pumpy crux with its beautiful sequence, is what makes this one of the best routes I've ever done. The first crux was a bit of a challenge for me at first. I kept falling almost right at the start, and it was tough to believe I could send it. But working on the route with Milena and having support from her and my friends gave me incredible motivation. When I finally got through the first crux, the second one didn't stop me. I'm glad I started and sent it together with Milena on the same day โ€“ it was the best part of it!

Tara Hayes does Isles of Wonder (8B)
Tara Hayes, who did her first 8B last year, has completed Isles Of Wonder (8B) in Ogwen valley. The 27-year-old finished her competition career in 2022 after being part of the GB team for 14 years. Her best results were a silver in the Youth World Championship and in 2019 she was #12 in the European Championship.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I was psyched to try Isles of Wonder as soon as I saw a video, it's a straight up line with cool moves in a great location. I first tried it last summer and after a couple of sessions knew it was within my capabilities. I was hitting the last hold (excluding the top out) from the start so I was confident it would go. I then went to Rocklands for a month and unfortunately didn't get back to try it until May this year. After 1 session of re-learning the moves, I felt like I was in good enough shape to get it done. I knew I needed to try it consistently to give myself the best chance so I ended up having about 7 sessions in the last month. I felt closer each time but still lacked the belief to stick the last hold (it looks really far when you're setting up for it!), despite feeling OK in isolation. Thankfully on Friday I was in the right headspace to get it done and managed to execute the moves really well and find some extra try hard. Overall it's by far the most commitment I've put in.