Monday, 5 August (UTC+2:00): 10:00 – Men's semifinal Boulder: Results
Tuesday, 6 August: 10:00 – Women's semifinal Boulder
Wednesday, 7 August: 10:00 – Men's semifinal Lead
Thursday, 8 August: 10:00 – Women's semifinal Lead

Friday, 9 August: 10:15 – Men's final Boulder & 12.35 Lead
Saturday, 10 August: 10:15 – Women's final Boulder & 12:35 Lead

Sorato Anraku is the big favorite to win with 40 % of the votes in the Vertical-Life prediction. Complete Schedule including Speed. IFSC has published a conversation with Brooke Raboutou and there are many more interesting articles on IFSC, like a presentation of all Boulder & Lead athletes (from page 34).

Gonzalo Larrocha has repeated Adam Ondra’s Valhalla (9a) in Flatanger. In total the 39-year-old has now done 35 routes 9a or beyond. (c) Adri Martínez

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I have been trying the route during two weeks. The main problem for me was handjam in the second pitch. It was stressfull to get there and slip or the jam or the feet. But finally every things works well. The picture is by the anchor after 50' of climbing during the send.

Michaela Kiersch continues striking in Rocklands by sending Amandla (8B+), using the original Fred Nicole jumping method, and Purple Nipple Clan (8A). (c) Kevin McNally

Can you tell us more about Amandla?
I was super close in the first session and even gave a convincing flash attempt. I spent a lot of energy making the top feel secure and couldn’t manage it the first day. It took 3 more sessions as I battled with split tips, tape, and skin that led to me dry firing up to the lip 4 times total before sending.

How has the first three weeks in Rocklands been?
I came with a super ambitious wishlist and of course there are so many more boulders here I’d like to try but I feel really proud of the ones I was able to send in such a short amount of time! I had to maintain super high motivation to make it work with the rain and my skin and I’m happy that I pushed myself.

The scenery is amazing, especially the beautiful sunsets every night. Even the night climbing is beautiful because you can see the milky way on a clear night. It's hard not to love it.

Victor Guillermin made the first repeat of David Lama's Avaatara (9a) last year, at age 17. "Avaatara, is very particular, because it is located near a 100m sinkhole, so the access to the base of the route is very scary and dangerous. This took me a lot of mental energy during the trip. During the first two sessions, I managed to do all the moves and some sections, but when I started real tries on the third day, I fell in the crux, a hard dropknee to a half crimp. I kept falling at this move 20 times in a row, during 5 sessions but finally, I found another beta, which was better for me, with heel hooks, two days before we took off to France.

On my last day, I felt better than ever, but conditions were really bad. It was windy, so the waterfall wet the holds and it rained a lot. But finally, probably on my last try, with a bit of sun, I managed to pass the crux and kept going to the anchor, with a huge fight and big screams! It was definitely for me one of my biggest fights and one of my proudest ascents!"

Marine Thevenet, with over 100 boulders 8A to 8B+ under her belt, has done Tronic summer (8B) in Sanetsch.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I went to the Sanetsch for the first time at the end of July with a friend of mine. She showed me this boulder, opened by Theo Chappex. It’s physically demanding, you need to keep a good tense for a long time and do some compression moves on crimps. The footholds are good, which makes it all possible! But it’s also tough for the skin so… no big sessions!

For the process… it is always the same :) on the first day I did all the moves. On the second day, my skin was trashed but my motivation was high so I tried to do some links. I came back alone 4 days later with the ambition to climb it in 2 parts. I quickly redid all the moves and made good links, so I started to think « why not?! Why I should wait until the next day with my friends to try it?! ». I switched my mindset and decided to try :)

Moritz Perwitzschky has flashed Fred Nicole's classical Amandla (8B+) in Rocklands giving it a personal 8B grade. The 24-year-old made his first VL/8a headline in 2013 and his last was from this summer when he sent Corona (9a+).

Can you tell us more about the flash and your 8B personal grade?
The boulder was graded 8B+ with the direct jump beta over a crimp. With the high right foot and the bump method, I think it is rather 8B. But the holds are there and it is easier so for me it doesn't make sense to climb it the direct way.

I trained a lot in this style the last weeks and was quite confident, to climb it quickly, didn't expect to flash it though.

Here are Olympic gold predictions based on almost 1,000 Vertical-Life/8a members. You can make your prediction until the games start on Monday.

96 % Janja Garnbret SLO
02 % Ai Mori JPN
01 % Brooke Raboutou USA

40 % Sorato Anraku JPN
29 % Jakob Schubert AUT
11 % Adam Ondra CZE
08 % Toby Robers GBR
04 % Alberto Gines Lopez ESP & Tomoa Narasaki
01 % Alex Megos GER & Colin Duffy USA

Nicholas Allan has repeated James Webb’s Khoikhoi (8C) at N1. ”Easily my proudest send to date!” (c) Rowan Toselli

Webb put it up ten years ago and commented, ”Absolutely stunning boulder problem. Potentially one of my proudest first ascents. Perfect compression on just barely there slopers leading up a pristine 20 foot tall boulder.”

The 17-year-old did his first 8A+ at age eleven and sent his first 8B+, four years later, comments, ”I first tried Khoikhoi in march and was immediately psyched on it. I wasn’t able to try it as much as I wanted because it’s very condition dependent but always had it in the back of my mind. The weather was never good and I wasn’t able to give it any close ground burns until my 6th session where I dropped the top several times. Went back the next day and managed to send it second go from the bottom. One of the best boulders I’ve done and so psyched for it to be my first 8C!”

What is coming up next?
I have some projects in mind for next season but my main focus for now is youth worlds in August.

Alex Totkova has repeated Daniel Woods' Crystal Vein (8B) in Rila Monastery. During the last three Lead World Cups this summer, the 19-year-old has been 6-15-5.

"After the past WC’s I knew I wanted to make that boulder, to restart a bit in nature. Made one session last year in September and these days I had 2 night-morning sessions to do it between the preparation for future comps. I am mostly happy that mentally I persevered. I knew I could send it through it in that short time. It was just patience. Something similar to competitions. Fell 2 times from the Top and then realised I made the wrong beta with my left hand for this move. It was a small correction but totally at the right time… Rila mountain has been my lovely place since childhood not only because of the amazing rocks but also from the beautiful monastery."

Jorge Diaz-Rullo has onsighted the 55 meter long Nordic flower (8c) in Flatanger. “One of the best route I ever climb in this grade. What a fight!” (c) Marco Müller

This was the fifth 8c onsight for the 25-year-old and he is #2 in the Vertical-Life ranking game. Now the Spaniard has started to project Change (9b+).