Siara Fabbri, with two 8B+’ under her belt, has sent Law and Order (8A+) and The Arch (8B) in Rocklands. ” Last day send day! Even better to send with Simo :) Amazing line complete with crimping tension in a roof then mantling it out. Difficulty influenced by height/beta with it.”

Can you tell us more about The Arch and your trip?
The Arch is a special line because of the beautiful rock textures on it and the setting. It has a big stream running under it, which goes into a little waterfall, and above there are nice rock pools. The climbing is super fun and breaks into two parts, the bottom which is technical roof climbing with some hard crimping and heel hooking, then you have to come into a difficult mantle on these slopers reminiscent of Font. There are two small pebbles on two of the higher slopers, these are like gold once you get them! Especially because you are numb after crimping super hard in the lower part. I came back to it my last day of the trip with Simo, (Simone Tentori). and could send almost back to back with him flashing it, so that made it extra sweet! We celebrated with a swim in the rock pools 😄.

The trip overall was incredible and of course flew by too fast. It was my first time in Rocklands so I wanted to try a lot of lines, and I have a lot to come back for! I was blown away by the beauty and wildlife, we are already planning a longer trip next year for those amazing lines and to do exploration beyond climbing to appreciate the wildlife.

Orrin Coley, with 8b and 8C as his route and boulder personal best, has done the FA of The Wizard King (9a) in Forest rock. “8 sessions this summer. It’s been fun being back on a rope and adding a new type of challenge to this little crag.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
It takes a central line through the middle of the cave from the lowest point all the way to the top, involving a very unique mix of climbing styles. Starting with horizontal roof climbing, it then breaks out into a very burly board style section before a technical headwall leads you to top out. It's about 40 moves from start to finish and became a more physical battle than I anticipated. I'd expected it to just pump me out a bit and that's it, I'd slowly progress until I succeeded. But the pump was unlike anything I've experienced before - not only did my forearms box out as expected, but due to the steep nature of it and tension required my whole core and legs would fatigue as well just as much. After failed redpoint attempts, I'd lower off and just be unable to catch my breath for a while because it was so hard to keep breathing while on route.

I also recognise the grade may seem a surprise to some, or like I pulled it out of nowhere. I don't exactly have much experience sport climbing these days, at least not at this level. My previous best redpoint was 8b and that was so short it was basically a boulder anyway, so it's a bit of a jump. After many conversations with peers it sounded like this route could certainly sit in the 8c+/9a region for sure. So why did I settle on 9a? After so many years climbing in this cave it's become increasingly apparent my opinion on difficulty here is flawed due to over exposure, so it's proved more accurate to lean towards the higher grades for better accuracy. If it gets downgraded, I don't really care, nor does it matter. It's a great bit of climbing that I'm pleased to have put up regardless of difficulty.

Hareru Nagamori, who was #7 in Lead, was the only one topping out three boulders in the boy's final U-18 category. The runner-up was Beomjin Park from Korea and Corentin Laporte from Belgium won the bronze. Complete results

Nagamori said to IFSC: "I got the top on the first boulder, and I was feeling great, so I threw a kiss to the crowd. I got another top on boulder four but I was too focussed at that stage and I was just thinking about the climbing, I didn’t have any headspace to throw another kiss.

I have been focussing more on Lead climbing for this competition so to win the Boulder title is a bit of a shock for me. But I’m happy, just so happy."

Jennifer Eucharia Buckley from Slovenia, superior in the Lead event in the Youth World Championship, got another victory by a big margin in Boulder topping all 14 boulders. Kaho Murakoshi from Japan sent two boulders in the final meanwhile Geila Macia Martin from Spain topped one. Complete results

Buckley, runner-up in Innsbruck after Janja Garnbret comments to IFSC: "I feel great. I achieved what my main goal of the year was. I think in the World Cup’s I went for a different reason; it was more of an experience and learning, but here I came with a mission and a goal, and I’m really content I could make it come true."

Maïa Souveton has done Amadeus (8c) in Sabart and Fanatic climbing has made an interview with the 18-year-old, video.

"I’ve been spending my weekends and vacations at the crag for several years now, it’s a bit like the family lifestyle with the camper van. On the other hand, I didn’t really get in touch with the world of competition and I’ve always preferred to be out in nature with my family."

Isabelle Faus, with a dozen 8B+' under her belt, has sent Mirta (8B+) at Topside. (c) Yaqub Dollie

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
First tried it in 2016, got close, but didn’t really get a good chance to try again till this trip. Took three sessions this time. Really psyched to have done this iconic line!

”Not my hardest…” you said on Instagram. What were the other harder boulders you did during your six weeks trip?
I did this boulder Violater sit that Nalle [Hukkataival] said was 8A.. but the crux is harder than Mirta crux, haha. Doesn’t have the same endurance factor tho. I said it was v12 [8A+], but idk grades get confusing the more things I do. It was hard for me and took as many sessions as Mirta did.

I put up a couple v10 first ascents, possibly harder but I go low end for grades, cause it doesn’t really matter. One is called Daisy Domergue and the other is Twins of Ares. The latter is very cool, both have videos on my Insta. I also did a bunch of classics in the v10/v11 range. Barracuda, Mask Off, Eye of Sauron, War and Peace, Extraterrestrial, and Cytokine. I think that’s it!

Strangely, Violater is not in the database or on internet?
Possibly I did the first repetition.

So silly, some climbers seem to opt for grades rather than quality?
Climbers just don’t know who to use their eyes, over the guide book. It’s learned skill maybe tho. I just walked up to it and was psyched… I had no idea what it was or what the grade was.

I went home and then looked the area up to see what it was, turned out it was Nalle’s. I’m not sure when he did. I think like 2017 ish, I could be wrong tho.

Alizee Dufraisse has ticked Ikarus (8B) in Sustenpass. This was the second 8B in 2024 for the 37-year-old who previously also has done three 9a routes.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Well, I'm working on the extension [Highlander (8B+)] that goes to the left, which is my main project this season. Still super motivated to try to make the ascent of this one haha. The wall of “Traumland” suits me pretty well, long boulders with a lot of tricks. It's also pretty rewarding as you can see improvement in resistance that shows progression during the process.

What is next?
Back to route climbing 🤓🌟 I am very motivated to get back on some projects I have left in Rodellar and Siurana!

Nicolas Cioffi has done the FA of Trap House (9a) in Bismantova. The route starts with an 8A+ boulder and a 7B+ link into an 8a+ route.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
An idea to try this route appeared in my mind 2 years ago, after sending the first part, 8A+ boulder itself. Anyway, I didn’t focus on the whole line because I used to think that it was too difficult.

In the late spring 2024, after a winter of consistent training, I went back to the route. During the first session I sent the first boulder again and it gave me the confidence to focus on the project. After 3/4 session I figured out the middle 7B+ boulder and I made some good links, I started to try the route from the ground. In few sessions I found myself fallling during the last hard move of the second boulder. On the send day thanks also to a psyched crew, very good shape and pretty good conditions everything went perfectly and I found myself clipping the anchor. In total I spent on the route around 12 session.

How come it has been almost a year since you sent any harder routes or boulders.
I had a surgery on last October, cause I broke my bicep during a training. After this I just focused on back in shape and trained a lot till march. I went back to rock and I sent fast an 8b+ and 8c. 2 session each one.

Arisa Hayashi got the third gold for Japan in the Youth World Championship, winning the U16 girls category. Arisa won on countback from the qualification and, notably, four girls topped the final route. "I’m very, very happy. I like Lead and I have trained a lot of Lead for this event. I knew I had to top to win, and I felt a little bit nervous, but I wanted to win and get a medal and so I just had to do my best."

Among the boys, Chanjin Jung from South Korea got the gold having won all three rounds. "I didn’t expect first, but I expected a podium, so I’m really happy and I can’t wait for the next competition. This really gives me confidence for the Boulder competition now." Interesting is that Korea and Japan continue to dominate getting all Top-5 positions among the boys. Complete results © Richard Aspland/IFSC

Check out Jonathan Siegrist's latest film, PASSION. A core climbing film focused on the tension, commitment and emotions surrounding relentless travel and climbing at your limit. The film features send footage from more than 10 different routes up to 9b across 3 countries!