
26 August 2024
Nicolas Cioffi makes the FA of Trap House (9a)
Nicolas Cioffi has done the FA of Trap House (9a) in Bismantova. The route starts with an 8A+ boulder and a 7B+ link into an 8a+ route.
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
An idea to try this route appeared in my mind 2 years ago, after sending the first part, 8A+ boulder itself. Anyway, I didnโt focus on the whole line because I used to think that it was too difficult.
In the late spring 2024, after a winter of consistent training, I went back to the route. During the first session I sent the first boulder again and it gave me the confidence to focus on the project. After 3/4 session I figured out the middle 7B+ boulder and I made some good links, I started to try the route from the ground. In few sessions I found myself fallling during the last hard move of the second boulder. On the send day thanks also to a psyched crew, very good shape and pretty good conditions everything went perfectly and I found myself clipping the anchor. In total I spent on the route around 12 session.
How come it has been almost a year since you sent any harder routes or boulders.
I had a surgery on last October, cause I broke my bicep during a training. After this I just focused on back in shape and trained a lot till march. I went back to rock and I sent fast an 8b+ and 8c. 2 session each one.
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
An idea to try this route appeared in my mind 2 years ago, after sending the first part, 8A+ boulder itself. Anyway, I didnโt focus on the whole line because I used to think that it was too difficult.
In the late spring 2024, after a winter of consistent training, I went back to the route. During the first session I sent the first boulder again and it gave me the confidence to focus on the project. After 3/4 session I figured out the middle 7B+ boulder and I made some good links, I started to try the route from the ground. In few sessions I found myself fallling during the last hard move of the second boulder. On the send day thanks also to a psyched crew, very good shape and pretty good conditions everything went perfectly and I found myself clipping the anchor. In total I spent on the route around 12 session.
How come it has been almost a year since you sent any harder routes or boulders.
I had a surgery on last October, cause I broke my bicep during a training. After this I just focused on back in shape and trained a lot till march. I went back to rock and I sent fast an 8b+ and 8c. 2 session each one.
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