United (8C+) is a sit start to Decided (8B+) and was establihed by Ryuichi Murai. Shawn Raboutou did the second ascent.

Maya Klaunzer, with two 8A's under her belt, has sent Libre Original (8B) in Felbertal. (c) Martin Šálek

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I was able to climb the boulder on Tuesday and was super happy because I only needed 4 sessions to climb it. So that was my project for the summer. I climbed Libre soft (7C+) 2 years ago and thought I could never climb the Libre original. I think (according to local climbers and Verticle-Life Climbing) that the boulder has no female ascent yet.

What is your climbing background?
I started climbing when I was 3 and started doing climb comps when I was 12-13 years old. But in my hometown Osttirol I always climbed outdoors and really like to go climb outside. I am in the Austrian national team and that was the first 8B Boulder I ever tried and now already could send… :)

What is your best competition result?
The IFSC European Boulder Cup in Liébana, with a 7th place in the women category last year :)

Sebastien Bouin reports on Instagram that he has repeated Dylan Chuat's X integral (9a+) in Ravoire. In total, he has done twelve 9b’s, out of which seven are FA’s. Additionally, Seb has a further five 9b+ ascents to his name, as well as the FA of the world's second 9c route, DNA.

"These times were a bit tricky to organize because I wanted to train for a hard project. So basically, climbing days at the crag were my rest days 😅, and I was training hard on the other days. Somehow, since the route isn’t too steep, it worked out."

How many climbing days in a row did you have before the send?
I had quite a lot, around 20 days with only one rest day But training in the gym during the rest day was good for the small project.

Ritsu Kayotani, Boulder Youth World Champion in 2022 and 2023, got his third straight gold by winning the U20 category in Guiyang. "I’m happy, especially after completing all of the boulders. I knew if I could get the last boulder I would have the win, so I was just focused and thinking about climbing. As soon as I reached the top, I was just happy to win and get the gold for the third year in a row."

Among the girls, Lily Abrait, who got the bronze last year, won by being the only one topping three boulders in the final. "I still don’t really believe it; it feels so special. It was just amazing to climb with those strong girls and I had fun throughout the whole competition. It’s my first time here in China and I’m not disappointed at all. I was third last year and my goal of this year was to get the gold, so I am glad I did it." Complete results

Jorge Diaz-Rullo has repeated Adam Ondra’s Change (9b+) in Flatanger. The Spaniard has been up there in Norway well over a month first projecting Move (9b) coming close. Then he started working Change focusing on the second part. The Spaniard has previously sent nine 9b’s as well as done the FA of Mejorando la samfaina (9b+) and repeated Bibliographie (9b+). (c) Leo Bøe

Here is part of what he says on Instagram. ”I still can’t believe it happened. Being able to pass the boulder problem [pictured] at the beginning from the ground for the first time and then climbing the 50 meter complete line was a physical and mental fight that I will never forget. I gave everything I had, my arms and body couldn’t do more, but in the end I managed to clip the chain.”

Thilo Schröter has had a great trip to Rocklands where he over ten amazing days sent Get Railed (8B+), Reverse Cowgirl (8B+), Bloody Mary (8B+), Noise vs Beauty (8B+) and Monkey Wedding (8C). (c) Anders Vest - Get Railed

Can you tell us more about those ten days and what lead to the peak performance?
In the first two weeks of the trip I tried all of the 8B+ for one session, which laid the foundation for the streak. Monkey Wedding I had tried for close to ten sessions over two trips. Ultimately I just caught a good wave, made some smart decisions and got lucky that the skin didn’t capitulate. Sometimes things go your way! :)

What is the plan for the autumn?
The plan for this fall is to develop more boulders in Norway, and hopefully finish off an old project in Lofoten. After that I will work, and train for a trip to southern US around new years.

Christopher Cosser, who participated in the Tokyo Olympics for South Africa, has sent Monkey Wedding (8C) and Spray of Light (8C) in Rocklands. (c) Daniel Gajda

Can you tell us more about doing your first two 8C’s?
For the past five years, I have been solely focused on indoor/competition climbing, rarely giving much time to outdoor climbing to test my limits. However, during an impromptu trip back home to South Africa, I had the chance to climb my two hardest boulders with a great crew of friends.

Climbing both “Monkey Wedding” and “Spray of Light” (8C/V15) within 24 hours of each other was surreal. I had to balance expectation and execution to give myself the best odds. Both sends went on the second attempt of each session and almost felt effortless. It was the perfect example of fine-tuning beta and executing when the time was right.

This experience has been a great learning curve in pushing my limits on outdoor bouldering, and it has made me even more motivated for the future.

Siara Fabbri, with two 8B+’ under her belt, has sent Law and Order (8A+) and The Arch (8B) in Rocklands. ” Last day send day! Even better to send with Simo :) Amazing line complete with crimping tension in a roof then mantling it out. Difficulty influenced by height/beta with it.”

Can you tell us more about The Arch and your trip?
The Arch is a special line because of the beautiful rock textures on it and the setting. It has a big stream running under it, which goes into a little waterfall, and above there are nice rock pools. The climbing is super fun and breaks into two parts, the bottom which is technical roof climbing with some hard crimping and heel hooking, then you have to come into a difficult mantle on these slopers reminiscent of Font. There are two small pebbles on two of the higher slopers, these are like gold once you get them! Especially because you are numb after crimping super hard in the lower part. I came back to it my last day of the trip with Simo, (Simone Tentori). and could send almost back to back with him flashing it, so that made it extra sweet! We celebrated with a swim in the rock pools 😄.

The trip overall was incredible and of course flew by too fast. It was my first time in Rocklands so I wanted to try a lot of lines, and I have a lot to come back for! I was blown away by the beauty and wildlife, we are already planning a longer trip next year for those amazing lines and to do exploration beyond climbing to appreciate the wildlife.

Orrin Coley, with 8b and 8C as his route and boulder personal best, has done the FA of The Wizard King (9a) in Forest Rock. “8 sessions this summer. It’s been fun being back on a rope and adding a new type of challenge to this little crag.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
It takes a central line through the middle of the cave from the lowest point all the way to the top, involving a very unique mix of climbing styles. Starting with horizontal roof climbing, it then breaks out into a very burly board style section before a technical headwall leads you to top out. It's about 40 moves from start to finish and became a more physical battle than I anticipated. I'd expected it to just pump me out a bit and that's it, I'd slowly progress until I succeeded. But the pump was unlike anything I've experienced before - not only did my forearms box out as expected, but due to the steep nature of it and tension required my whole core and legs would fatigue as well just as much. After failed redpoint attempts, I'd lower off and just be unable to catch my breath for a while because it was so hard to keep breathing while on route.

I also recognise the grade may seem a surprise to some, or like I pulled it out of nowhere. I don't exactly have much experience sport climbing these days, at least not at this level. My previous best redpoint was 8b and that was so short it was basically a boulder anyway, so it's a bit of a jump. After many conversations with peers it sounded like this route could certainly sit in the 8c+/9a region for sure. So why did I settle on 9a? After so many years climbing in this cave it's become increasingly apparent my opinion on difficulty here is flawed due to over exposure, so it's proved more accurate to lean towards the higher grades for better accuracy. If it gets downgraded, I don't really care, nor does it matter. It's a great bit of climbing that I'm pleased to have put up regardless of difficulty.

Hareru Nagamori, who was #7 in Lead, was the only one topping out three boulders in the boy's final U-18 category. The runner-up was Beomjin Park from Korea and Corentin Laporte from Belgium won the bronze. Complete results

Nagamori said to IFSC: "I got the top on the first boulder, and I was feeling great, so I threw a kiss to the crowd. I got another top on boulder four but I was too focussed at that stage and I was just thinking about the climbing, I didn’t have any headspace to throw another kiss.

I have been focussing more on Lead climbing for this competition so to win the Boulder title is a bit of a shock for me. But I’m happy, just so happy."