NEWS

Adam Ondra repeats Flow State 8C (+)
Adam Ondra has done L'oppio dei climbers (8B+) and Flow State (8C) in Val daone. โ€8C+ if you are short for sure! Amazing FA by Pietro Vidi.

The next day he flashed Felberqueen (8B) in Felbertal and over just three he sent ten boulders 8A and beyond. In total, the 31-year-old has logged close to 2 400 routes and boulders on Vertical-Life.

Sera Gearhart ticks European Human Being (8A+)
Sera Gearhart, with over 40 boulders 8A and beyond under her belt, has completed European Human Being (8A+) located at 3100 m elevation in RMNP (CO).

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I think I gave myself altitude sickness and I havenโ€™t been able to stomach eating much so I felt super shaky and nauseous yesterday. Very happy that I was able to put it together even feeling so awful! I opted for the double clutch method since it was a bit warm to control the last move. It was cool because thatโ€™s not how I usually climb. Beta inspired by Alex Johnson!

Ryusei Hamada and Meini Li win U16
Ryusei Hamada from Japan and Meini Li from China won all three rounds, securing Japan's 14th medal and China's 16th in the Youth World Championship. Notably, all six boys in the final were from Asia, and only six from Europe, out of which three from Israel, made it to the semifinal, although there are a maximum of three per nation.

Li, who was fourth in Lead, says; โ€I am so excited as itโ€™s my first time at a World Championships and the feeling is incredible. After Lead I feel climbed semi-finals so bad, and I had to change my emotions to get better in the Boulder.

The feeling of being at home made me more relaxed and enjoy the competition, and the crowd was incredible all the way through.โ€


Hamada, who got the silver in Lead, comments; โ€œIโ€™m so happy for the gold, but I didnโ€™t climb well on the first route, and I was disappointed not to make tops on all the boulders. My goal was four tops for the final, but maybe that will have to be for next year now.โ€ Complete results ยฉ Richard Aspland/IFSC

United (8C+) is a sit start to Decided (8B+) and was establihed by Ryuichi Murai. Shawn Raboutou did the second ascent.

Maya Klaunzer sends Libre Original (8B)
Maya Klaunzer, with two 8A's under her belt, has sent Libre Original (8B) in Felbertal. (c) Martin SฬŒaฬlek

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I was able to climb the boulder on Tuesday and was super happy because I only needed 4 sessions to climb it. So that was my project for the summer. I climbed Libre soft (7C+) 2 years ago and thought I could never climb the Libre original. I think (according to local climbers and Verticle-Life Climbing) that the boulder has no female ascent yet.

What is your climbing background?
I started climbing when I was 3 and started doing climb comps when I was 12-13 years old. But in my hometown Osttirol I always climbed outdoors and really like to go climb outside. I am in the Austrian national team and that was the first 8B Boulder I ever tried and now already could sendโ€ฆ :)

What is your best competition result?
The IFSC European Boulder Cup in Liรฉbana, with a 7th place in the women category last year :)

Seb Bouin ticks X Integral (9a+) on a rest day
Sebastien Bouin reports on Instagram that he has repeated Dylan Chuat's X integral (9a+) in Ravoire. In total, he has done twelve 9bโ€™s, out of which seven are FAโ€™s. Additionally, Seb has a further five 9b+ ascents to his name, as well as the FA of the world's second 9c route, DNA.

"These times were a bit tricky to organize because I wanted to train for a hard project. So basically, climbing days at the crag were my rest days ๐Ÿ˜…, and I was training hard on the other days. Somehow, since the route isnโ€™t too steep, it worked out."

How many climbing days in a row did you have before the send?
I had quite a lot, around 20 days with only one rest day But training in the gym during the rest day was good for the small project.

Lily Abriat and Ritsu Kayotani win U20 boulder
Ritsu Kayotani, Boulder Youth World Champion in 2022 and 2023, got his third straight gold by winning the U20 category in Guiyang. "Iโ€™m happy, especially after completing all of the boulders. I knew if I could get the last boulder I would have the win, so I was just focused and thinking about climbing. As soon as I reached the top, I was just happy to win and get the gold for the third year in a row."

Among the girls, Lily Abrait, who got the bronze last year, won by being the only one topping three boulders in the final. "I still donโ€™t really believe it; it feels so special. It was just amazing to climb with those strong girls and I had fun throughout the whole competition. Itโ€™s my first time here in China and Iโ€™m not disappointed at all. I was third last year and my goal of this year was to get the gold, so I am glad I did it." Complete results

Jorge Diaz-Rullo completes Change (9b+)
Jorge Diaz-Rullo has repeated Adam Ondraโ€™s Change (9b+) in Flatanger. The Spaniard has been up there in Norway well over a month first projecting Move (9b) coming close. Then he started working Change focusing on the second part. The Spaniard has previously sent nine 9bโ€™s as well as done the FA of Mejorando la samfaina (9b+) and repeated Bibliographie (9b+). (c) Leo Bรธe

Here is part of what he says on Instagram. โ€I still canโ€™t believe it happened. Being able to pass the boulder problem [pictured] at the beginning from the ground for the first time and then climbing the 50 meter complete line was a physical and mental fight that I will never forget. I gave everything I had, my arms and body couldnโ€™t do more, but in the end I managed to clip the chain.โ€

Thilo Schrรถter strikes in Rocklands
Thilo Schrรถter has had a great trip to Rocklands where he over ten amazing days sent Get Railed (8B+), Reverse Cowgirl (8B+), Bloody Mary (8B+), Noise vs Beauty (8B+) and Monkey Wedding (8C). (c) Anders Vest - Get Railed

Can you tell us more about those ten days and what lead to the peak performance?
In the first two weeks of the trip I tried all of the 8B+ for one session, which laid the foundation for the streak. Monkey Wedding I had tried for close to ten sessions over two trips. Ultimately I just caught a good wave, made some smart decisions and got lucky that the skin didnโ€™t capitulate. Sometimes things go your way! :)

What is the plan for the autumn?
The plan for this fall is to develop more boulders in Norway, and hopefully finish off an old project in Lofoten. After that I will work, and train for a trip to southern US around new years.

Chris Cosser does two 8C's in Rocklands
Christopher Cosser, who participated in the Tokyo Olympics for South Africa, has sent Monkey Wedding (8C) and Spray of Light (8C) in Rocklands. (c) Daniel Gajda

Can you tell us more about doing your first two 8Cโ€™s?
For the past five years, I have been solely focused on indoor/competition climbing, rarely giving much time to outdoor climbing to test my limits. However, during an impromptu trip back home to South Africa, I had the chance to climb my two hardest boulders with a great crew of friends.

Climbing both โ€œMonkey Weddingโ€ and โ€œSpray of Lightโ€ (8C/V15) within 24 hours of each other was surreal. I had to balance expectation and execution to give myself the best odds. Both sends went on the second attempt of each session and almost felt effortless. It was the perfect example of fine-tuning beta and executing when the time was right.

This experience has been a great learning curve in pushing my limits on outdoor bouldering, and it has made me even more motivated for the future.